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unless you rearrange the front, i think the 8274 would stick out too far and yes, block too much radiator. these cherocars get hot. id go with a standard warn 9k or whatever. try to keep it tucked in close, cut the grill around it. not sure if you put a steering cooler on it yet, but a...

lookin good i just noticed its a v8, not sure my previous comment applies.

ive considered doin another one on the cheap like that. you might want a lil more lift for moab if your gonna weigh it down with tube.? The 95s are great. saw the cat off, build your own pvc intake..:beer:

nice:beer: are ya rockin a hp30? one of them with a detroit carrier and some chromos andyou woulda been fine i bet.

was there a thread on DIY beadlocks a while back? i searched and couldnt find. wondering whos got the best deal for some 15" with all the harware i need to convert my steelies. simple, lightweight not mud rings.:beer:

Bfg at

you mentioned 14.5 wide above, but i see youre talking SW. 8" with a 12.5 sounds good. im more familiar with the "generic" brands in radial MTs tho, havin bought a few in the 30-35" range where you have many offerings in the 3 ply sidewalls, just seems silly with 15" irok radials you have to...

thats weird that the 15" radials are 2 ply sides.:puke: look at the 16" iroks and trxus mt, 3 ply sides. iv always wanted to try the irok ND. 37x16 NDs, nice n light. 15" rim w 37s on a narrow rim doesnt sound like a good dd combo to me, great in snow surely tho.

the stock outer plastic seals, if you could call them that, wouldnt go around the larger diameter neck of the ten factory shafts i put in last spring, so i been goin without. can anyone confirm which of these fancy seals will work...

fixed:beer:

nicw work:beer: i like rangers. like the top rack but yeah, tires up top are :rb: would be handy for camping gear and smaller stuff though. i have a 95 2wd 4 banger in about the same condition as your first pic up there id sell cheap if you need a little DD or want to start a parts...

they make these things called Budget Boosts.

funny how a set of swampers turns it into a "straight up wheeler" huh. i still suffer through mine though, always ready to lose a bearing or a wheel or maybe even steering as she jiggles down the freeway:redneck: Dont do one of those jungle gym devices on er. them things are straight up hideous.

<hmmm, maybe why the old dudes who did mine charged me 20 instead of 10. jeep guys just love to order parts tho, as you know. (thanks for the extremely fast shipping on that 44a locker btw:awesomework:)

the kolak header is a nice looking piece with significantly longer tubes. a nice weld might cost ya like $20 and no shipping though. mine's lasted years and years.

thats what i was thinkin. not sure if zj and xj are the same arm angles, but i ran 3.75 with 33x10.5s and maybe just barely rubbed. runnin the same wheels with my 14.5 wide swampers and just threw a few spacers behind the stops:redneck: where are youguys finding 3.5 BS wheels for a good price?

that's a clean one! i still DD a '96 5.0 with 180,000 miles, bought with 114,000 for a family hauler, and its now used for my business. i swear by the particular drivetrain under mine, as i know they've had bad years. only thing iv put on it is an alternator so far. gets 16 mpg with a...

not sure if toyo is a sponsor, but i bet you could drop 20+ pounds per corner in rotating weight by switching tires.

YJ all the way. leave the short arm/long arm deathwobble can-o-worms crap to the unicars. my old YJ sold to a gay guy who doesnt wheel but still sports bias plies, no swaybar or rear trac bar and it still drives great.

hitting up the pawn shop for an older stihl has been one of my best buys ever. cant beat real german made stuff. but i think its important to have a good saw shop and buy what they service if you are new to working on saws. I stop by harper's in roslyn for my parts. the guy knows every stihl...