i got a bad ball joint on my tie rod end and are haveing a hard time find ing a new one with the right size tapper and threads.. so was kicking around the idea of drilling out the tapper on the knuckel side and running a heims joint (got the idea from a guy at shucks) any one do this up or down i think the only problem with it is going to be heims are exposed to dirt and mud more that a ball joint!
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
ball joints vs heims joints?
- Thread starter 97f250
- Start date
1980cj5
Well-Known Member
I am pretty sure thats what nutter did on his xj and it seems to work well.
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
I run the cheap hiems from Ballistic in the 7/8 thread x 3/4 through hole variety stepped down to a 5/8 bolt with high misalighnment spacers on my tie-rod. I have ~2000 miles on em so far, an they are still tight as can be. I would recommend mounting them in double shear if you can, helps keep the bolt from loosening up and egging out your hole.
You would be surprised at how well the hiems hold up to mud/dirt. They contain a piece of something or another that keeps them lubed up well. And they are tight enough tolerences that the dirt can't get inbetween the ball and the housing. Mine sat outside under the rig, dirty as hell for 2 months an when I hosed them off, the ball of the hiem was still shiny an smooth.
You would be surprised at how well the hiems hold up to mud/dirt. They contain a piece of something or another that keeps them lubed up well. And they are tight enough tolerences that the dirt can't get inbetween the ball and the housing. Mine sat outside under the rig, dirty as hell for 2 months an when I hosed them off, the ball of the hiem was still shiny an smooth.
mikes got them on his jeep! huh i think i am going to go to jonh deer and see what i can find! it is on a toyota but has a 44 flat top on it going to try national in sumner on my way down see what i cant find
its a wheeler.. had just read a bunch of other forums that guys said they had problem with them collecting alot of dirt and mud and wearing out quick.. but heard as well that the heims joint will be a cheaper replacement part that a new tie rod end
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
if you run cheap tractor heims, you are going to have worse wear problems
uke:
A good quality heim worth using is going to cost more than a new tierod end.
Keep the TRE and keep it simple and normal.
OR have fun and enjoy your new tractor clankers.
uke:A good quality heim worth using is going to cost more than a new tierod end.
Keep the TRE and keep it simple and normal.
OR have fun and enjoy your new tractor clankers.
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
I wouldnt run tractor joints on steering. Thier tolerances are a lot looser than actual "Hiems" They get sloppy quick, and are just "cheesy."
You can get a good 3/4" hiem from ballistic for like $8, plus a few dollars for high misalighnment spacers, an get it in a few days. Also, Those Guys carry them over in Bremerton I think.
good to know i found the right on at national but was 48 bucks for ti so if it goes tits i am going to switch to a heims helps to havea parts guy that know what he is taking about and doing few measurements and had the right one frist try!
IMO rod ends for steering are a bad idea. Good greasable older Chevy/Dodge tie rod ends last a long time and are really strong. Rod ends should be mounted double shear and that is tough to do. I just did a Jeep with all cromo 3/4" & 7/8" Ballistic rod ends, misalignment spacers on the drag link, double shear and he was into it alot more then factory style tie rod ends cost. They will wear out because of the dirt and mud too. Tractor ends are loose and sloppy when they are new so be prepared for scary steering if that is what you use.
what does the double shear mean i hear and read about but not sure what you are saying!
i did find out that the tie rod end i wa looking for came in like 84-91 1500 2500 3500 blazer suburban and silvverrados it was pretty commen..
i did find out that the tie rod end i wa looking for came in like 84-91 1500 2500 3500 blazer suburban and silvverrados it was pretty commen..
Single shear would be where the bolt goes through one link tab, double would be where you have a tab on both sides of the heim that the bolt goes through, it refers to the amount of shear planes on a single bolt. It's easier to see than explain :redneck:
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
Double Shear
Single Shear
Single Shear
