Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 11, 2013

crash said:
Here are the bling wheels Chris had picked up.

My first concern was the backspacing as they are close to 4" so the distance to the frame is pretty close (too close) which also means the tire will likely dig into the springs pretty good even with 1.5" spacers on front.

Well I drug the other 2 out to put on the front since it was ready--there I ran into a much worse problem and something I didn't think of..

These are more than likely off a later chev and the inner diameter is too small to fit over the hub assembly. So I got to roll them damn things back into storage and dig the other wheels out..

Fawk.........I didn't think of that either..... **** **** ****

crash2 · Feb 11, 2013

This is the last big piece going on the truck--I just have to prep them a little.

Maverick26 · Feb 12, 2013

Can you have those rims opened up to fit the hub or is it not worth it due to the short BS?

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 12, 2013

Maverick26 said:
Can you have those rims opened up to fit the hub or is it not worth it due to the short BS?

With the short bs I'm not thinking it's worth it..... Yeah they are bling... but ideally I would like some steel 17 I can eventually beadlock

crash2 · Feb 13, 2013

Backspacing isn't right to do anything with IMO....

KarlVP · Feb 13, 2013

Tom's ready to do your drivelines if you have that tube for him. You can drop it off with me anytime. :awesomework:

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 13, 2013

Sounds good just waiting for the tube to arrive

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 16, 2013

Bringing up stuff tomorrow:beer:

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 17, 2013

Mike will this dip stick work for us?

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72333

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 17, 2013

How about these rims?

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72343

crash2 · Feb 17, 2013

Sandtrap1986 said:
Mike will this dip stick work for us?

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72333

The one I built is better than that :awesomework:

crash2 · Feb 17, 2013

Sandtrap1986 said:
How about these rims?

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72343

Definitely pass on them...

crash2 · Feb 17, 2013

Ok so it took a little work to rework these a bit but they fit perfectly now and all done. So that pretty much wipes out 99% of the metal work on the rig.

Chris came up last night and was really happy with how they turned out.

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 17, 2013

crash said:
Ok so it took a little work to rework these a bit but they fit perfectly now and all done. So that pretty much wipes out 99% of the metal work on the rig.

Chris came up last night and was really happy with how they turned out.

Hell yeah exactly what I wanted

crash2 · Feb 17, 2013

So Chris dropped off another column that had a good ignition switch assembly. I started by getting the old ignition assy out (you have to chissel the break off bolts loose and work them out). The tumbler assy was gone and I found the back side of the case was blown out--in an odd spot too since the lock pawl that holds it in is on the top and close to the end.

So it was perfect except it had a different connector on it. I was going to simply swap the connector body but it also had different terminals. The only option was to re-use the origional electrical portion of the switch but the area that turns was all hogged out. So I simply tore bore switch's apart and swapped the guts over to the old switch and since the contacts on the old switch body were perfect it made for a good solid unit.

Checked it out and works perfect and could not get the cam sensor code to reset after multiple start ups.

crash2 · Feb 17, 2013

Chris also dropped off another bumper but it was a little different than what was on the rig. So I measured it and it looked like it should work.

And yup it fit like a glove---looks MUCH better...

In the morning I am going to get the electric seats wired up and bolted down hopefully.

Sandtrap1986 · Feb 17, 2013

crash said:
So Chris dropped off another column that had a good ignition switch assembly. I started by getting the old ignition assy out (you have to chissel the break off bolts loose and work them out). The tumbler assy was gone and I found the back side of the case was blown out--in an odd spot too since the lock pawl that holds it in is on the top and close to the end.

So it was perfect except it had a different connector on it. I was going to simply swap the connector body but it also had different terminals. The only option was to re-use the origional electrical portion of the switch but the area that turns was all hogged out. So I simply tore bore switch's apart and swapped the guts over to the old switch and since the contacts on the old switch body were perfect it made for a good solid unit.

Checked it out and works perfect and could not get the cam sensor code to reset after multiple start ups.