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Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)

Ok the driver side frame rail was a bit of work since I made the choice of cutting the plating on the frame way back to the steering box.. But I got the brackets/plates rough cut off....


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So after some grinder love and I cut a > into the plating it looks a lil better..

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Both frame rails are now done...

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Pulled these off the motor and going to use them for target practice....

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Soooo shiny ..... don't spend that 10 dollars all in one place ...thanks for having a assortment of Toyota parts stashed lol
 
Ok since I hurt my knee things will be a lil slow for a while but I am going to make forward progress...

Since this bugged me its first on my list. There is no need for oil cooler lines plus it just complicates the rig even more/more things to get grabbed and ripped off..

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Step one---remove..

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If you look down the nipple on the adapter for the oil filter you will see the hex formation. A 10mm fits perfect but a 3/8 alen wrench will also work.

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When you remove the adapter there are 2 things that seal it to the block. First a large oil ring--toss that and the second a paper gasket where the adapter meets the block. Now make sure to fully remove that because under that is the other bypass valve (also on in the adapter).

Once cleaned simple screw the nipple into the block.

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An walla the filter. There are 2 versions of the filter--a short or a long(like whats shown).

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That oil cooler was there (from the factory) for a reason. GM V8s, when transplanted into small radiator vehicles, are not uncommon to have overheating issues during extended operation (hillclimbs, racing, coming off freeway driving, etc). An oil-cooler helps to keep things in line.

IF it were my rig, I'd leave the cooler installed, but simply put a bypass hose between the two lines. This allows it to be easily utilized at a later date, if needed.

The cooler can also be swung 180*, if you want to install the cooler in the rear of the vehicle.
 
was the oil cooler something stock? Just curious as to why it was put on then...

That oil cooler was there (from the factory) for a reason. GM V8s, when transplanted into small radiator vehicles, are not uncommon to have overheating issues during extended operation (hillclimbs, racing, coming off freeway driving, etc). An oil-cooler helps to keep things in line.

IF it were my rig, I'd leave the cooler installed, but simply put a bypass hose between the two lines. This allows it to be easily utilized at a later date, if needed.

The cooler can also be swung 180*, if you want to install the cooler in the rear of the vehicle.

Mine has never had one :redneck: Plus all the others...

Plus this aint a V8 :D
 
I got the motor side of the mount slightly redesigned (actually slightly streamlined). This is a design I made about 5 years ago with some slight changes over that time frame with zero failures to date..

But got them done.

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Mike I found the a/c delete pulley but i was wondering if it were possible to just make that a compressor to run air by tapping those holes?
 
Mike I found the a/c delete pulley but i was wondering if it were possible to just make that a compressor to run air by tapping those holes?

Its hard to say if it would work or not (more if its actually any good). Being a non sump compressor it will not last long...
 
So I got the motor prepped by pulling the harness and all the hoses off it. Not only does that let me know what is/is not there it simply makes it easier to work around..

I got the truck prepped and all leveled.

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So now for the critical part--engine/trans placement but I have a sweet spot I like to put both. To be able to do that I found I can't roll everything back far enough because the torsion bar mount was in the way.

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I have come to love/hate playing with the plasma/grinder on my back lol.

But I got it all scarfed off..

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So now with that done I am able to put things in there "happy" place..

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The method I always use is jack stand the motor so its good and stable and rachet straps to keep everything in place--works great..

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I got the other side of the mount made.

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With the motor in place I simply had to make the stringers and tach everything in place and pull the motor. I was only able to get the stringers welded up and tommorow I will get the gussets cut/welded in place and the frame rails painted.

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