dana 300 detent balls

[rockmike]

I tore into my dana 300 t case,I want to replace all the seals and front output bearings.

I pretty much dont know what im doing,never had one apart.I removed those lil caps along side the shift rails expecting some springs and ball in there.I got nothing? are the springs and balls on the back side of the rails? so when I remove the rails the balls will come shooting out?

I see theres a shim pack on the backside of the front output shaft,I assume this is to adjust end play in the shaft,no really to preload the taper bearings? If so what is the end play specs for the front output shaft?

Thanks for the help,MIke.

 

[rockmike]

31 views and nothing eh?

Oh well I rarley no what im doing anyway,I guess ill figure it out

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

they go in from under the rails.

http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3766078435/m/13910815441

 

[Lincolnlock]

Yes the detent balls are under the shift rails. Don't force the shift rails you'll break the shift rail. They come out in a specific order. While you are in there make sure to shim the detent springs with small washers. Use as many as you can to make the detents as stiff as possible. This will help the t-case from jumping out of gear in low range when it's twin sticked. It's a total beast to get them back in so be patient and make sure your work area is clean so that it's easy to find the springs. A rubber dead blow hammer will help also. Just be gentle.

There is some decent information about shimming the springs found here.

http://www.teraflex.biz/category/tech/installation-instructions/

 

[Damnyankee]

use lots of greese for the detents and springs.

 

[rockmike]

Awsome I new there would be some peeps that know this t case.So I just remove the allen set screws at the shift fork and then I can slide the rails out,yes?

So would it be smart to turn the rails 90* so the notches are clear of the detent balls? to make them come out easier.

Any body got info on the shims on the backside of the front output?

How much end play does that shaft need?

Thanks,MIke.

 

[Damnyankee]

since its a tapered roller bearing there shouldnt be any end play, should be preloaded. I don't know the preload value though. I set mine up till it felt right.

 

[rockmike]

since its a tapered roller bearing there shouldnt be any end play, should be preloaded. I don't know the preload value though. I set mine up till it felt right.

Ok,so ill install the new bearings on the shaft and just play with the shims untill it feels tight but not binding before I put the middle shaft and gears back in it?

 

[Damnyankee]

Ok,so ill install the new bearings on the shaft and just play with the shims untill it feels tight but not binding before I put the middle shaft and gears back in it?

somthing like that. but if its out of gear it won't be engaged, you can do it after its all put together, shouldn't be TIGHT,, but minimal resistance.

someoby might be able to chime in on the rolling torque.. maybe 9 inch pounds or so. if you think that pinion bearing preload is about 10-12.

 

[Lincolnlock]

Remove the retainer for the cross shaft and tap it out with a brass drift or a large wood dowel. Make sure you recover all needle bearings and the 3 retaining rings from inside the idler gear. If you are not using an overhaul kit, you

 

[Damnyankee]

those allen set screws are a BIATCH.
i screwed up 3 allen keys, and finaly hit it with a touch of heat to get them out.

 

[rockmike]

Thanks again guys,I feel like I got enough info to get it done right now.Appreciate you sharing youre experiances with this case.

 

[fubar73cj5]

Take some pics and post back up when you're done :beer:

 

[rockmike]

Ill see if I cant do that for ya.The members really came through with some great links and info already.

I would amagine if a guy cant figure it out with the info in this thread,maybe he shouldnt be going in there.Its just another mechanical puzzle,I was just researching for a couple of details before I got to deep into it.Lil tricks like the spacers under the springs to increase there tension and the hard to loosen set screws on the shift forks.These types of things are a big help,so a guy can get it done right the first time and time savers also.

Thanks guys,virtual beers on me :awesomework::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

You can also get stiffer springs from Ace hardware if you want to really make that fawker stiff... Shimming can only go so far before the spring runs out of travel and you flat out can't shift it. :redneck:

 

[rockmike]

Good point bud,Ive got a nice selection of small springs at home I was going to waite and get these factory dudes out of there and do some comparisons and try to find some stiffer ones.I understand the dana 300 especially with the twin sticks tends to pop out of low range.