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Down and Dirty Transaxle Build

Yup....

I somehow end up in most of the Transaxle discussions...

I am confused why there is a mental barrier to many.... when it comes to using a transaxle. This is just more proof of how good it works!

I have been running my Mazda rig since 2005!

Marv
 
Theres just not many of them out there, which is something I appreciate.. to me, this sport has progressed to the point that anyone can have a buggy if they want it.. seems to me that 99% are using the same recipe (regarding drivetrain components) with a few unique aspects because its whats proven to work. I felt like i was gambling with the transaxle setup but i felt that if it were successful, it would be worth the waiger and it worked out..

I'd love to see the transaxle catch on more and it seems to be just because its another extremely viable option.. there are quite a few more builds going on these days than just a year ago..
 
Love the build, now you got me thinking!! I have always thought about doing a transaxle buggy but the no Tcase thing bugged me as I like to "crawl".

Dumb question number 1. What about the other output on the transaxle? I realize you made a shaft from one side but is the other side sealed? Just spins?

From what I have looked at last night and this morning there are spider gears inside the output? Just weld them up like you would a normal diff I assume.

Have you made any headway with the RAD shifter? I have one in my YJ and I love it.


Thank you.
 
thanks man! If you were to build one of these without the Tcase you'd want to run a much lower diff gear and you could crawl no problem but then you'd be stuck in low range all the time and traveling between trails would probably suck after a while of rev limiter. Tcase also gives you 2wd and digs option and an extra low range..

The extra output is just spinning back there, it has to be there to keep fluid in the trans.. my plan is to pull that out and the seal and find a freeze plug to go in there to clean it up a bit...

There is a differential inside the transmission, it has planetary gears that turn a carrier with spider gears inside.. guy on pirate "camarogenius" has pics of the carrier in his TA build thread.. just weld the spider gears up like anything else. you need to be more careful with this one though because there are plastic parts that can melt near it so i just did a weld and let it cool, then go again.. took most of a day to get it done.. otherwise the whole trans has to come apart to get the diff out to weld it up on a bench.

I wasn't able to get the RAD to work with this trans.. i spoke to some 4t65e gurus and they said since the diff is integrated there are too many signals needed by the PCM from the TCM so it basically goes into limp mode when you try to use the RAD shifter so i abandoned that.. the trans works great in stock form tho.. it will shift to second within just a few feet if you want it to and it'll shift while spinning the tires if you let it... so far 1st and 2nd have been plenty for any obsticle i've encountered
 
zjtrey said:
thanks man! If you were to build one of these without the Tcase you'd want to run a much lower diff gear and you could crawl no problem but then you'd be stuck in low range all the time and traveling between trails would probably suck after a while of rev limiter. Tcase also gives you 2wd and digs option and an extra low range..

You did a 205 correct? I'm trying to keep it lighter than my YJ buggy (3,060 lbs) so id probably look at other options. Need to dig a little more on transaxle/tranny ratios. From what I gathered so far the tranny first gears look like they were all right around high 3's. Aren't the transaxle ratios pretty similar to that?

The extra output is just spinning back there, it has to be there to keep fluid in the trans.. my plan is to pull that out and the seal and find a freeze plug to go in there to clean it up a bit...

perfect! Thats excactly what I was hoping to hear.


There is a differential inside the transmission, it has planetary gears that turn a carrier with spider gears inside.. guy on pirate "camarogenius" has pics of the carrier in his TA build thread.. just weld the spider gears up like anything else. you need to be more careful with this one though because there are plastic parts that can melt near it so i just did a weld and let it cool, then go again.. took most of a day to get it done.. otherwise the whole trans has to come apart to get the diff out to weld it up on a bench.

I might be able to handle that

I wasn't able to get the RAD to work with this trans.. i spoke to some 4t65e gurus and they said since the diff is integrated there are too many signals needed by the PCM from the TCM so it basically goes into limp mode when you try to use the RAD shifter so i abandoned that.. the trans works great in stock form tho.. it will shift to second within just a few feet if you want it to and it'll shift while spinning the tires if you let it... so far 1st and 2nd have been plenty for any obsticle i've encountered

This is kind of a bummer to hear. I like to be able to hold a gear and/or start in fourth. How is the compression braking?
Click to expand...

:smoke:
 
Yes its a divorced ford 205.. i wanted the beef so i sacrificed on weight. you could run a divorced atlas but there isn't much weight savings there and they cost a whole lot more money.. Im not sure if you could "divorce" a d300 but you have to throw a lot of money at them to get reliability, then youll split the case open once the shafts will hold up..

On the diff welding, just pull the nose cone off the trans and the spiders are exposed you'll feel more comfortable with it at that point.. another thing i did while welding was keep all the small parts coated in anti spatter goo for the mig welder..

I would love for someone with more auto trans experience to figure the shift controller out... the guys i spoke to seemed to think a standard 4l60e would be easier to control externally.

compression braking is awesome in it.. the trans functions really well, i wasn't sure how it would do considering the PCM thinks its traveling at approximately 6 times actual ground speed but it works well, it shifts quickly when allowed and downshifts properly also
 
I forgot all about your head mounts, you didn't happen to have a good pic of them before it was all mounted? Still happy with your choice in brakes? Any chance you kept the brake bracket template? I'm strongly considering cutting out what's left of my firewall and recession the motor more. Then I'd need to swap in manual brakes for ease. I've just never used them and not sure how I'd like them. They must be ok, as most all buggies run them.
 
I do have some pics of the head mounts... give me a little to dig them up...

I do have the template for the brake mounting plate... my buddy with the plaz table can make more in no time..

I like the simplicity of the manual brakes... Im not 100% sure i've made the right MC choices yet but they work well and not real high on my list of adjustments to make
 
zjtrey said:
I do have some pics of the head mounts... give me a little to dig them up...

I do have the template for the brake mounting plate... my buddy with the plaz table can make more in no time..

I like the simplicity of the manual brakes... Im not 100% sure i've made the right MC choices yet but they work well and not real high on my list of adjustments to make
Click to expand...

That would be awesome. Do you think it's a MC bore issue, or pedal ratio? I'm trying to learn as much as possible so hopefully I only have to order once.

I did get my harness mailed off to Jim's today, thanks again for the suggestion.
 
zjtrey said:
I had my computer flashed by fast fiero's but I DO NOT recommend them, apparently the guy got it right but if I had that to do again, I'd use Jims Performance.

I did put a 180 deg Tstat in and NGK TR6 plugs which were recommended by some 3800 gurus, I did this after the trip, the plugs made a big difference, the ones i took out were GONE!

feel free to hit me up with questions as you move forward, I'll be happy to PM you my cell number.. what are you putting the 3800 in?
Click to expand...

Thank you for the suggestion, turned out nice.

 
Thanks! Im running 2.5 pipe and a single chamber muffler from summit. That ticking noise is idler pulley issues.. when i pulled the motor last weekend i found several issues.

whats up with your steering now? did you get a krc pump?
 
zjtrey said:
Thanks! Im running 2.5 pipe and a single chamber muffler from summit. That ticking noise is idler pulley issues.. when i pulled the motor last weekend i found several issues.

whats up with your steering now? did you get a krc pump?
Click to expand...

It steers fine, but no krc. Whether it was with the original P pump, TC pump, or CBR pump the steering has always been stiffer than any other full hydro setup I've driven. I think I may have to bite the bullet and buy a the correct turn orbital and switch to a double ended ram eventually. My setup works, but it's not as fast or easy to steer as others. I moved a Jeep at Brave Motorsports a few weeks ago, and I could steer it with a pinky. He used a stock LS P pump and a huge double ended ram. It was lock to lock in barely 2 turns which was nice.

I'm running a 2.5 MagnaFlow that's basically a flow through style. It doesn't do a lot of muffling. I've considered just adding a second one in line after it as I haven't finished routing it out the back yet.

I had a random oil leak last week from the filter relocation plate hoses. I used the intense racing pressure kit and maintain around 70-80 psi at idle. It's leaking from the pushlock I bought from Smiley's Racing. I added a hose clamp and it seems to have fixed it, but am considering having a set of high pressure lines made just to be safe.
 

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