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Fun talk, let's discuss a stock rig starting point

nhl_bullitt

Southern IL/MO
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
956
Location
Southern IL/MO
Building a trail rig for the GF, somewhat on the cheap.
1. Because I enjoy 70% of the build process. 2. Because she has fun driving and would have a blast with one to call her own.
I've got an F250 HP 44 front and full floater rear, 4.10s for the time being.
So..
the easy go to vehicle for me is a cherokee because the 4.0, aw4, modified 231 is a great starting point. Throw some frame stiffeners on it and start fabricating. $2,000.00 EASILY gets me a reliable one.

What driver's side drop rig would you consider for that price range? Basic info being that it will be linked up front, probably leafs in rear, and still need to be driven on the street if need be (which is a change of pace for me but I'm kind of excited for something different).
 
How common is it that explorers have a manual shift transfer case? Probably most of the first gens do, but figured a lot of the 2nd gens are electronic.
 
I just done a xj myself with a hp 44/9" . For the price of the xj and how capable they are i vote cherokee , but i went way over the 2k mark on mine but could have got by alot cheaper than i did . They dont seem to sale worth a **** but for something to beat the hell out of, i get enough enjoyment out of it to not worry about what i will ever get back out of it.
 
scrowexj said:
I just done a xj myself with a hp 44/9" . For the price of the xj and how capable they are i vote cherokee , but i went way over the 2k mark on mine but could have got by alot cheaper than i did . They dont seem to sale worth a **** but for something to beat the hell out of, i get enough enjoyment out of it to not worry about what i will ever get back out of it.
I meant 2k easily gets you a nice, stock one, not 2k for the total build cost. But yea, I feel right at home building a cherokee but am willing to step out of my comfort zone for the right reasons.
 
XJ's are cheap but if you do anything in them they fall apart at the unibody in a couple of years... I'd find something with a frame.
 
Ranger or s10 is my vote. Preferably an extended cab for storage. My regualar cab is a little tight. You can adapt a 4.0 ford to a C6 or 4 speed manual too. The 4.3 is even easier.
 
90-93 single cab 4 cyl manual yota pickup. Weld it front and rear. Install 3 inch blocks in rear turn torsion bars all the way up with an impact. 32 ltbs. Beat the **** out of it, drive it to the trail, and carry a few spare cv axles. :****:
 
If your in it for the long haul then build a Firewall buggy out of a 1 ton chevy or ford truck, spend a little more now, save yourself mucho extra work and money down the road
 
Re: Re: Fun talk, let's discuss a stock rig starting point

BUG-E J said:
90-93 single cab 4 cyl manual yota pickup. Weld it front and rear. Install 3 inch blocks in rear turn torsion bars all the way up with an impact. 32 ltbs. Beat the **** out of it, drive it to the trail, and carry a few spare cv axles. :****:
CVs, inner front axles, and several sets of complete steering linkages and idler arms.

Toyotas are easy to build, but the complete lack of power for street driving makes them suck for a drive-to/from trail vehicle IMO.

Also doesnt fit into the criteria of driver drop tcase. Unless you do a doubler and adapt a driver drop case behind the crawl box.
 
What about the late 90's Dodge Durango, they are on a frame, driverside drop transfer case. come with a V8, can be had for pretty cheap. Agreed not as cheap as a Cherokee or Exploder but not as expensive as a 4 runner.
 
Re: Fun talk, let's discuss a stock rig starting point

What about a big body Benz? Bring the hood to the trail? Has all the dependability, tried and true cheap replacement parts as ford......
 
*cough* waggy* cough* v8,strong trans, drivers drop :dblthumb: I know of 3 that can be had for under 2k down here right now, most in pretty good shape. I just let one go for a good bit less then that :****: It needed a little help in the engine department but it was clean as hell, ran,drove,kinda stopped and the 4x worked. Spring over it with 33s and beat it til the 229 dies. It does have the vacuum switch for 4x/2x with a manual shift for high/low, but it is easy enough to rig up a manual shift for that as well. Its big, but its comfy and you can stash all your spare parts in the back of it instead of in your rig ;D
 
Neal3000 said:
If your in it for the long haul then build a Firewall buggy out of a 1 ton chevy or ford truck, spend a little more now, save yourself mucho extra work and money down the road

This^^^. Mid 90's F-350 with a fuel injected 5.8 or big block 7.5. High pinion 60 in the front 10.25 in the rear. Weld the rear, Spartan locker in the front.
 
FlatlandFSJ said:
*cough* waggy* cough* v8,strong trans, drivers drop :dblthumb: I know of 3 that can be had for under 2k down here right now, most in pretty good shape. I just let one go for a good bit less then that :****: It needed a little help in the engine department but it was clean as hell, ran,drove,kinda stopped and the 4x worked. Spring over it with 33s and beat it til the 229 dies. It does have the vacuum switch for 4x/2x with a manual shift for high/low, but it is easy enough to rig up a manual shift for that as well. Its big, but its comfy and you can stash all your spare parts in the back of it instead of in your rig ;D

I was going to second the ranger idea, as they have solid drivetrains, but I think the Waggy is the best idea yet. Already has Solid axles front and rear, decent motors, plenty of space for people and gear.

My runner up would be a 93-97 Ranger with a 4.0L M50D 5 speed and manual 1354 Tcase. swap in the front 44 using radius arms bolt the rear up to a set of 63" rear chevy springs (front leaf hanger gets moved forward "6 inches and wheel stays centered in the wheel well with the 63's) with a lift shackle and call it a day.
 

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