Hey Clark!

[Eric]

I would be worried about hanging up on things more then a strength issue.

 

[Avanteone]

I would be worried about hanging up on things more then a strength issue.

That was the argument when I did mine too.... it's been a non-issue.

 

[Eric]

That was the argument when I did mine too.... it's been a non-issue.

Thats good to know.

 

[Corey Y]

and Crazy's pic of a front end is from a different rig. That's NOT the same rig as the pic of the back shock/coilover brackets that Clark cut for Dean

The one I posted is JP magazines Juggy build that has a front end similar to Deans. It also shows the machinework done on the centers.

 

[oneshot]

This will be interesting to see. Fluting will give you more surface area and will help cool and makes it more ridged , that is what is done with a riffle barrel. Will it give more strength and work for an axle, I agree with Darius it will not work.:corn:

 

[Bunk1]

Arm chair engineer here, But im thinking it's a extra burly 3/8ths wall axle tube. Depending on the depth of cut of course. That truss may null and void any issue though.

Edit: Wheres JasonC??

 

[darius]

Arm chair engineer here

Edit: Wheres JasonC??

Where do you think I got my opinion.....:beer:

 

[crash2]

:eeek::eeek::eeek:

I like my round axle tubes :awesomework:

 

[Money Mark]

I'm not so concerned with the strength argument or catching the voids on rocks (they would every once and awhile, if you wheeled the tough ****) but the constant presence of hardened mud and pieces of root and tree stuffed into would just piss me off.uke:

 

[crapyota]

but the constant presence of hardened mud and pieces of root and tree stuffed into would just piss me off.uke

more area to clean up :cheer:! you cant let something like this be dirty for to long then no one could see the cut tubes.
oh hell we need trail wash stations....

 

[Avanteone]

Arm chair engineer here, But im thinking it's a extra burly 3/8ths wall axle tube. Depending on the depth of cut of course. That truss may null and void any issue though.

Edit: Wheres JasonC??

I'm thinking they're 1/2" tubes. :redneck:

 

[TreeClimber]

I'm thinking they're 1/2" tubes. :redneck:

They are 1/2 tubes.

Hey Aventeone,
I wanna pick up that Atlas shaft today. What beer you want?
Tony

 

[Avanteone]

They are 1/2 tubes.

Hey Aventeone,
I wanna pick up that Atlas shaft today. What beer you want?
Tony

Just some Coors Light for the shop fridge.

 

[crash2]

Just some Coors Light for the shop fridge.

Your supposed to ask for good beer :awesomework:

 

[Jason C]

Arm chair engineer here, But im thinking it's a extra burly 3/8ths wall axle tube. Depending on the depth of cut of course. That truss may null and void any issue though.

Edit: Wheres JasonC??

:hi: I'm here.... The milled tubes look cool as hell. EVERYTHING in the sport is a gain in one place or sacrifice in another. if you want lighter axle tubes.. like Bunk said just go to 3/8"tube and will be much easier on your wallet. Keep in mind that you have the possibility of bending the tube.. .and even more so with 1/4" than you go to chromo (look at the otigional Camo 60 thread on pirate the tube broke off next to the housing. so than you have possibility of fracture or tearing of tube with some link bracketry with too much load. BUT.... if the car is super light it can be done.... it is all really the proper part for the proper application and what you doing or planning on doing with the part. when I got my prorock centers I chose to tube both front and rear with 3-1/8"X1/2" wall dom. I was willing to sacrifice the strength vs my housings being lighter. I will suffer more at high speed due to heavier unsprung weight. but I do not have to worry as much about having a housing bend and I am fine with giving up 2 to 3 mph in the chop for reliability in the rocks. Generally the thinner wall housings on heavy rig have to be braced/ trussed and stiffened so the weight savings is really not as much as one might think plus the likely hood of housing deformation during that process is pretty high. reality is the only right answer is to build for your application or what you want to use the diff for. So is fluted 1/2" wall tube stronger than 3/8" probibly. has little more metal and more surface space. but will still be havier than the 3/8" at that point for me it becomes a factor of $. I am going to choose to go the 3/8" simply because the gain VS $ I do not feel is worth the small difference. keep in mind this is for 60 applications. the 9", super 14, sixty- nine all have alot more options since you can go bigger dia tube which you can gain strength with more surface. but that is a whole other discussion.

 

[Avanteone]

Your supposed to ask for good beer :awesomework:

Good beer is for enjoying my time at home or with friends, Coors Light is to keep the shop fridge stocked with something wet. :beer:

 

[Bunk1]

I'm thinking they're 1/2" tubes. :redneck:

1/2 inch tube minus depth of fancy cut will give you the 'extra burly 3/8ths tube' i was referring to.:redneck::awesomework:

 

[pokey]

Your supposed to ask for good beer :awesomework:

You really dont think hes gonna keep the good stuff in the shop fridge for all the "visitors" now do you :haha:

 

[ZedMikey]

Cutting into the axle tube does not add strength. Adding ribs on the outside would.

Adding another engineer's take on the fluting topic... Cisco is correct. Removing material will not make a structure stronger or more rigid (except possibly in some particular circumstances involving stress concentrations... but that's definitely a topic for a separate thread and doesn't really apply to barrels or axle tubes, for the most part). We all know adding ribs increases rigidity, and that holds true for flutes. Fluting a larger diameter tube is basically the same as adding ribs. But again, a fluted tube is less rigid than a non-fluted tube of the same dimensions.

With barrels, the main benefit is the increased surface area... better heat dissipation. But, that has to be balanced with the loss of heat capacity from the loss of material.

 

[Avanteone]

Adding another engineer's take on the fluting topic... Cisco is correct. Removing material will not make a structure stronger or more rigid (except possibly in some particular circumstances involving stress concentrations... but that's definitely a topic for a separate thread and doesn't really apply to barrels or axle tubes, for the most part). We all know adding ribs increases rigidity, and that holds true for flutes. Fluting a larger diameter tube is basically the same as adding ribs. But again, a fluted tube is less rigid than a non-fluted tube of the same dimensions.

With barrels, the main benefit is the increased surface area... better heat dissipation. But, that has to be balanced with the loss of heat capacity from the loss of material.

But it LOOKS cool. :fawkdancesmiley: