lets talk about auto transmissions for wheeling

Hip · Aug 5, 2006

ok im a manual sorta guy so i dont know much about autos. im seriously thinking about the next rig being stupid easy to drive so i want to go auto this time.

as always i will be using stuff laying around already so disreguarding engine what is a good auto/transfercase set up for trail use?

i dont know crap about stall speeds either. what works?

i already have a 203/205 sitting around.:clappy:

ok school me:corn:

Harvester of Sorrow · Aug 5, 2006

Hippie...

I too used to be a dedicated 4-speed manual guy...

NEVER AGAIN...

Now that I have a rig with a good automatic, it is like you mentioned, stupid easy. The amount of control, less pedals to dance with, and did I mention forward control is enough to keep me with an auto from now on.

There really is no better auto to run than a TH400 or C6 depending on your make preference. Gobs of aftermarket goodies...been tech'ed to death on the internet so resourcing do's and don'ts are everwhere.

My vote:

TH400
Stage two shift kit (like I put in)
32 element sprag (for high torque and HP)
big coolers (not cooler but coolerS)
Decent quality shifter and cable

203/205 doubler
you already have them
Standard "factory" 4:1 components for Lo-Lo
You can always buck up for the new 3:1 kit with housing for the 205
205's are factory 32 spline

TreeClimber · Aug 5, 2006

My 79 had a T18 with 6.1 first. Backed with a Dana 300 and 2.62 low range.

Now I'm running a TH400 with Atlas 4.3.

You'll never regret the change! I even get compression braking on steep descents. I orginally had a low low stall converter, but changed it out for the stock Chevy stall.

In a short wheelbase, the doubled t-case take up too much room. Go with an aftermarket case, or a D300. If you're a long wheelbase, then doubled cases makes sense.

And I only run one cooler, but it's designed for a 2.5 ton truck.

Never-ever-ever gets hot. Even been in 100 + outside, pulling mountain passes up to 11500 feet. I do however run an auxilary fan in front of the cooler when wheeling hard or pulling passes, etc.

I'd run a overdrive, if higher than 4.56 axle ratio on tires 37 and under. You can build an 700r4 to hold up to abuse, if you spend the $$.

Tony

Blueleader · Aug 5, 2006

I run a TH350 with lower planetary gears (around 3:1 1st gear, can't remember exactly), stock converter, and a B&M kit. 4.56 gears, 33" tsl tires, and Dana 18 t-case (2.48 ratio?). I've been very happy with it. The gearing has worked out good as a trail runner. When I was setting it up, plenty of people told me I won't get any compression braking, the pump will cavitate at steep angles, it'll overheat, blah blah. None of that has been true. Personally, it seems to me like you see more guys on the trail with clutch problems than auto tranny problems.

The only problem I have run into was a cracked case, and it was totally my fault. I got in a hurry to get the rig done and just tied my crossmember into the tranny mount, which left all the weight of the t-case hanging off of the adaptor. One hard bump and it split the tranny case up through the governor. I beefed up the mount and supported the t-case better and it's been fine ever since. If you end up running a TH350, pay extra attention to that mounting. I don't think it's as much of an issue with the 400's and 700's since they seem to be a little more stout in the rear part of the housing.

TreeClimber · Aug 5, 2006

Good point about cavatition. I did run the deep pan. It allows for alot more fluid. The added fluid prevents cavitation on extreme uphills (i've stood it on the bumper and still was pulling) and it runs alot cooler also.

T.

no excuses · Aug 6, 2006

I run a 4.3v6 with t350 and dual stock toy cases (for now) I love the control that the auto gives and would not go back to a stick shift trail rig. But I have seen lots of people who run stickshift rigs and am just amazed buy how they can drive and control them. I believe that gearing makes a lot of difference between a stick and auto rig. Have a stick rig better get some deep gearing where a auto (because of convertor slip) needs about half they gearing.

PORTER · Aug 6, 2006

I will not run a manual trans for wheeling anymore. With proper gearing the auto is hard to beat. Add a stage 3 shift kit(Full Manual with comp braking) and you got manual shifting with no clutch pedal.:clappy:

Totalled · Aug 6, 2006

Well, I've got a C5/C4 mutt. Stock Rangers and BIIs from 83/84 used a C5, which is basically a C4 with a lockup convertor and a soft shifting valve body. I put a C4 V8 valve body in with a stage 2 B&M transpack, and an itermediate V8 car "A" servo. It hits harder than I'd like on the 2nd gear shift for low range, but it's fun on the street. I've lost drive 2 times on the trail from the angle... but I found it was from me using the stock car style filter... I have since found a filter with a snout on it that works with the C4 valve body and C5 4x4 pan.. so hopefully that problem is fixed. Ford autos already let you manually shift and compression brake, so other than the harder shifts, the kit now allows me to downshift into a gear at any speed, instead of the stock governed speed.

I'm using a stock 1350 t-case with a 2.46 low. Even when it still had the 2.8L in front of it, it wheeled 2000% better than with the manual trans.

Hip · Aug 7, 2006

so a C-6 0r T 400 with stock converter and manual valve body and thats it?

TreeClimber · Aug 7, 2006

Yup.

Stock c6 / th400

and you don't even need the manual valve body. I drive mine with the bone-stock valve body and love it.

You will want the deep pan. You will want an aux. cooler. And for an ONLY off-road tranny, then the full manual valve body. But it's a PITA for street driving.

T

Boonie Buster · Aug 7, 2006

i love my 700r4, we put a shift kit in it and a B&M slap shifter and it holds back twice as hard on a downhill compared to my stock 5 speed when i had it in.

Hip · Dec 15, 2008

ok now its time to address the tranny,

i have the Th 350 installed and want to go manual valve body, is there any specific brand that works better or worse than others?

i do want compression braking....ive seen

Hughs

Turbo Action Cheetah

TCI

what works?

Binder · Dec 15, 2008

Turbo action cheetah for the shifter.

Cascade_Crawler · Dec 15, 2008

Full manual valve body with compression braking will give the most control. There is an article on pirate about shifters you might want to read in the tech section. My stock converter is not up to the task so Im upgrading.

Hip · Dec 15, 2008

Cascade_Crawler said:
Full manual valve body with compression braking will give the most control. There is an article on pirate about shifters you might want to read in the tech section. My stock converter is not up to the task so Im upgrading.

what are you upgrading to?

Cascade_Crawler · Dec 15, 2008

Hip said:
what are you upgrading to?

Higher stall converter, stock stall is like 800 I want like a 2000 rpm stall

Hip · Dec 15, 2008

so what is the "issue" you dont like with the low stall and what do you hope to gain?

nevada · Dec 15, 2008

wow, all this love for the auto. and i cant wait to get rid of mine. the gearing BLOWS. 2.46 1st, thats rediculous.
i dont believe for a second u get DOUBLE reduction form the torque converter. if i did, id have decent gearing.

5.29's, 38's, c4, and a 302. with a 29:1 crawl ratio. it SUCKS!

you mentioned dual cases...i think thats a requirement with an auto trans.

i plan on getting duals shortly, maybe that will change my mind about the auto. right now, i hate it. and have a 4 speed waiting to go in, after the duals...in case i still want a manual(which i prefer)

Dan76 · Dec 15, 2008

nevada said:
wow, all this love for the auto. and i cant wait to get rid of mine. the gearing BLOWS. 2.46 1st, thats rediculous.
i dont believe for a second u get DOUBLE reduction form the torque converter. if i did, id have decent gearing.

5.29's, 38's, c4, and a 302. with a 29:1 crawl ratio. it SUCKS!

you mentioned dual cases...i think thats a requirement with an auto trans.

I'm not sure what your problem is, I'm running 4.88s 35s C4, Dana 20, 302. My crawl ratio is around 28:1. I've been real happy with how I can creep. My guess is you have a higher stall torque converter then me. With a higher stall TC you have to give it more gas for the TC to lockup, which makes your tires spin giving the feeling of higher gears. I'm running a pretty stock 302, and I believe my TC is stock as well which is 800 stall, It locks up instantly. :awesomework: