Lifted Toy, Need local help with front driveline!

slideshow86 · Oct 6, 2011

I SASed my truck and am running single transfer. I finally got my rear driveline to stop vibrating by installing a dual cardan on the shaft.

Somthing is wrong with my front end. I have a 93, so my og front shaft is the lowest of working angle DC's they make. If I bolt it to the transfer it wont hang low enough to even bolt to the pinion. I located what I was told is an earlier year with "more working angle" and it, at max working angle, was pointing at the pinion. I wouldnt have any more working angle for flexing/drooping. I got some shims and shimmed it up as much as I could with out throwing caster way out. The pinion is pretty damn straight at the TC. But a DC is like 6" long(ger than the TC, so this means by running a DC front shaft, you have a steeper front driveline angle)

After analizing the situation, I cant match the pinion flange to Transfer case angles, no way unless my pinion was facing the ground. I had a trip coming up so I said screw it and went and had a drive line made that was just single ujoints top and bottom. It vibes like crazy anting above 1st gear speed in 4wd.

This is just crazy. How do the single transfer guys install a TG front SAS and 4" lift, run the front shaft?

I know the 3 best options, Hi mount pinon front third (I just did 5.29s tho), dual transfers (not that serious into wheeling and just did rear shaaft) or somthing like a tom woods shaft ( I dont have the funds for somthing that expensive). I just want to know If I have other options.

Anyone local got parts and/or want to help? I need to try to fit another toyota dual cardan front shaft, but It would need to be extended to acutally be ran. Ive been all over this past year chasing the problem.

POR · Oct 6, 2011

Maybe run duel cj's on front driveline, is your single joint binding you might be able to grind it out alittle

slideshow86 · Oct 6, 2011

I thought about that but then the drive line would be so short and had such a steep angle. I don't know how to take apart I almost tried but its confusing. I need a true wheeler to look at it tell me where I've gone wrong. I don't know any.

POR · Oct 6, 2011

Does the truck run I could look at it

slideshow86 · Oct 6, 2011

Oh yeah I'm currently driving into work. Picking up a winch today and then thinking of hitting elbe on saturday.

Let me know when you're available I can alter my plans or I can pressure wash it and make it super clean for ya.

POR · Oct 6, 2011

Pm sent

Land Pirates Off Road · Oct 6, 2011

Not sure...

Just throwing this out there... Doesn't places like All Pro have a replacement drive shaft for that application?

Hummm sounds like a universal problem (no pun intended) for just about anyone who wants a SAS swap. Someone must know a solution!

WHITE TRASH1 · Oct 6, 2011

Ok to answer the other thread you probably can get away with an 84/85cv. It is the same bolt pattern etc but has much better angularity than the atock 3rd gen cv you have now. The current cv can be clearances to have just as much angle though. There is q nice writeup on 4crawler.com about doing just that.

Land Pirates Off Road · Oct 6, 2011

That is good to know! =-)

CHOP SHOP · Oct 6, 2011

6 degree shims and a NON CV driveline will solve problems if you are using monster truck springs.

A CV up front will only benifit you if the pinion is pointing straight at the tcase flange.

CHOP SHOP · Oct 6, 2011

Land Pirates Off Road said:
That is good to know! =-)

Keep hanging out on the internet and you might learn how to build more than just an IFS 4runner.

zukkev · Oct 6, 2011

If I remember correctly, and you want to try a single jointed driveline, the reg cab early 3rd gen rears have an insane amount of angle travel in the u-joints. You will have to have it shortened, but it may be an option for ya....hit up B-rad, he's down your way and could likely enlighten ya to the solution...:awesomework:

slideshow86 · Oct 6, 2011

CHOP SHOP said:
6 degree shims and a NON CV driveline will solve problems if you are using monster truck springs.

A CV up front will only benifit you if the pinion is pointing straight at the tcase flange.

U drove my truck and said it was fine and to just run it. But I can't just run it.

zukkev · Oct 6, 2011

CHOP SHOP said:
6 degree shims and a NON CV driveline will solve problems if you are using monster truck springs.

A CV up front will only benifit you if the pinion is pointing straight at the tcase flange.

Ther ya are!:haha:

CHOP SHOP · Oct 6, 2011

slideshow86 said:
U drove my truck and said it was fine and to just run it. But I can't just run it.

Then whats the problem? If I put a stamp of approval on it, then go wheeling.

Get a geo to drive on the road.

zukkev · Oct 6, 2011

I've used an early DC jointed front with 4" Allpros on a buddy's 1st gen that's dual cased, which does lengthen the front shaft considerably---that's likely the difference right there tho between yours and my buddy's...:eeek:

Damnyankee · Oct 6, 2011

http://www.4xshaft.com/

you might try these super flex joints. I have 1 in mine.. works fine.
vibes a little bit when i'm in 2wd with the hubs locked.

Gibby1 · Oct 6, 2011

I have to look in my pile of parts, but I just MIGHT have a high angle driveline front from when I was running a Toy front end.

CHOP SHOP · Oct 6, 2011

Please continue to use toyota parts to solve your problem.

The expensive, non toyota parts suggested recently will only cost more, but provide no more performance or reliability only more cost and proffits to people with 1800 numbers.

This riddle has a toyota answer.

Hi angle and tom woods will just add more cost and an INFERIOR part.

slideshow86 · Oct 6, 2011

POR said:
Pm sent

I didnt get your pm

Land Pirates Off Road said:
Just throwing this out there... Doesn't places like All Pro have a replacement drive shaft for that application?

Hummm sounds like a universal problem (no pun intended) for just about anyone who wants a SAS swap. Someone must know a solution!

I have looked into this option. I have already wasted a lot of $ on "logical" options. I have not been around wheelers long enough to know the answer. I just want to ask people that know this stuff and get my answer. Seems cheaper.

WHITE TRASH said:
Ok to answer the other thread you probably can get away with an 84/85cv. It is the same bolt pattern etc but has much better angularity than the atock 3rd gen cv you have now. The current cv can be clearances to have just as much angle though. There is q nice writeup on 4crawler.com about doing just that.

I looked into this but I couldnt get the dammed cv apart

CHOP SHOP said:
6 degree shims and a NON CV driveline will solve problems if you are using monster truck springs.

A CV up front will only benifit you if the pinion is pointing straight at the tcase flange.

I am running this currently. BUT I cant match the TC flange and pinion flange angles. I would be A) pointing the pinion at the ground and B) would put my TC flange at somthing like 30-40* before being flexed out. I tried this option.

zukkev said:
If I remember correctly, and you want to try a single jointed driveline, the reg cab early 3rd gen rears have an insane amount of angle travel in the u-joints. You will have to have it shortened, but it may be an option for ya....hit up B-rad, he's down your way and could likely enlighten ya to the solution...:awesomework:

I have already wasted enough $ on finding my problems (previous and current) that if I would have just went to someone who knows there **** in the firs place. I would have been able to afford dual cases and the xmember and everything else. But all the $ I have into my shafts, shims, rear leaf placement, front axle placement ect, I just dont want to do it on this truck. If I do, ill build a linked up flatbed or somthing. I just want an adventure rig. somthing capable, but still able to take my enduro to eastern wa. ya know.

CHOP SHOP said:
Then whats the problem? If I put a stamp of approval on it, then go wheeling.

Get a geo to drive on the road.

I cant take it. My mechanical mind says ill do damage, I have, in the past, had it fixed/no vibes. I cant replicate this though!! I think the dual cardan joing that didnt vibe ended up in my rear shaft. I need a high angle front shaft and someone with tools to help lengthen it.

I dont DD this truck. It only drives to the mud, trails or gravel roads for adventure/hunting. I have a DD