TacomaJD
I LIKE CHEAP STUFF.....
Re:
Adam Lee says they are nothing more than a churched up air shock
Adam Lee says they are nothing more than a churched up air shock
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
ORIs?
- Thread starter 5BrothersFabrication
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b.boyd
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- May 12, 2013
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Re:
To the best of my memory this is not how they are intended to be charged. Have you asked Mark Jensen, the owner ORI, about charging them this way?
I have had a set on my Jeep for about 4 years..I have experienced problems with sagging and having to recharge and few other problems. The remote reservoirs help some as I have the first ones Mark ever made.
ORIs tend to do better on lighter vehicles and vehicles were you can set the strut so more of the shaft shows. Heavy and not a lot of shaft showing is not a good combo with the. Newer version of the ST is more forgiving less shaft showing than old version. Like anything, if properly tuned and set up in the right vehicle they should do well...
With that said, my buggy which I built after putting ORIs on my Jeep, runs FOX remote reservoir coilovers and I don't regret it.
mcutler said:
To the best of my memory this is not how they are intended to be charged. Have you asked Mark Jensen, the owner ORI, about charging them this way?
I have had a set on my Jeep for about 4 years..I have experienced problems with sagging and having to recharge and few other problems. The remote reservoirs help some as I have the first ones Mark ever made.
ORIs tend to do better on lighter vehicles and vehicles were you can set the strut so more of the shaft shows. Heavy and not a lot of shaft showing is not a good combo with the. Newer version of the ST is more forgiving less shaft showing than old version. Like anything, if properly tuned and set up in the right vehicle they should do well...
With that said, my buggy which I built after putting ORIs on my Jeep, runs FOX remote reservoir coilovers and I don't regret it.
B Gillespie
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- Jul 25, 2008
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- 1,134
Re:
Truth.
TacomaJD said:Adam Lee says they are nothing more than a churched up air shock
Truth.
b.boyd
Well-Known Member
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- May 12, 2013
- Messages
- 158
Re: Re: Re:
Actually we are both mistaken. Go check the manual page 6.
http://oristruts.com/products/literature/user-guide/st-user-guide/
I am looking at hard copy of the manual in front of me and it clearly states you can DO the upper chamber with the shaft compressed or with it fully extended just as the link above does.
Neither is recommended over the other.
Bottom chamber is done FULLY compressed.
mcutler said:
Actually we are both mistaken. Go check the manual page 6.
http://oristruts.com/products/literature/user-guide/st-user-guide/
I am looking at hard copy of the manual in front of me and it clearly states you can DO the upper chamber with the shaft compressed or with it fully extended just as the link above does.
Neither is recommended over the other.
Bottom chamber is done FULLY compressed.
I was told the same
kmcminn
Well-Known Member
I have never seen any that didn't wheel hop. My thing is if they were all that, why don't more people run them?
kmcminn
Well-Known Member
When the front end starts spinning real fast they have started wheel hoping. Due to improper tuning, I don't know. Just what I have seen in real life.
I would have to disagree on them for lighter rigs,pretty sure they are rated 1900lbs per corner!!! A friend of out built big nasty which was out of 3" tube & if anyone was at Dixie run in 2010 saw it on bounty hill & his rig was pretty damn stable on that rock!!! I don't claim to know everything just my 02!!
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paradisepwoffrd
Well-Known Member
b.boyd said:
ORIs are designed to be run a half up & half travel down. They can be setup to run a low amount of uptravel, but really need to be changed internally to do it correctly.
paradisepwoffrd
Well-Known Member
kmcminn said:
this is likely due to suspension design. It could also be tuning. ORIs need to be tuned to work properly, just like coilovers & airshocks. Just them seem to be more forgiving than coilovers when they arent tuned exactly correct.
bigs10blazer
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- Jul 14, 2013
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the problem i have is NOT with tuning or ride height or wheel hop, it is 3 months of good running and wheelin they let the air out!!!!!!!!
when they are new I love them , BUT they dont stay that way, picture showing this was 6 months after a rebuild , they worked great, it is not improper tuning or air pressure, its the SHOCK , a seal goes bad inside and
they push pressure from upper to lower / or lower to upper, what ever they leave me stranded and could ruin a weekend of wheelin !!!!
when they are new I love them , BUT they dont stay that way, picture showing this was 6 months after a rebuild , they worked great, it is not improper tuning or air pressure, its the SHOCK , a seal goes bad inside and
they push pressure from upper to lower / or lower to upper, what ever they leave me stranded and could ruin a weekend of wheelin !!!!
b.boyd
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Bay said:
Yes you can use them on heavier rigs. They don't work as good particularly if you don't have at least half the shaft showing in respect to the older ST version. The STX version works better in terms of handling in the same scenario because of a redesign of the tube system that circulates the oil during travel.
Once you hit 6 k even the manual SUGGESTS running more than one strut per corner if the vehicle has poor handling charcteristics.
I have had Mark Jensen the owner of ORI, at my home for a weekend. We talked extensively about them and tuned on mine. Including him making me the first pair of remote piggy back reservoirs to help the situation on my Jeep. To further explain, when less than half of the shaft is showing there is less nitrogen that you are riding on when the strut is compressing before the strut hits the "oil" stage of compression. As a result, the vehicle will ride rough because it moves right through the nitrogen sitting on top of the oil and hits the oil which result in a hard ride. More nitrogen on top of the oil means softer ride, less rougher ride. This is made worse with a heavy vehicle because you have to run high upper chamber pressures to get your ride height corect. Running only 40-45 lbs in my bottom chambers, almost the bare minimum, I still have to hit 300 lbs or over in my front upper chambers to get the correct ride height on my Jeep. Since the bottom chamber controls stability you might be inclined to charge it higher. When this is done the upper chamber will have to be increased exponentially even more. In fact, if I charge the lower chamber to 80-90 lbs then my upper chamber requires pressure in excess of 400 lbs to get ride height. Thankfully, making tuning changes with the pressures is as easy as letting nitrogen out versus having to switch springs like a coilover.
The piggy back reservoir, at least in my case of a heavy vehicle with the bare minimum of shaft showing, attempts to provide additional nitrogen in the upper chamber to make the ride softer. As there is an increase in volume of nitrogen within upper chamber of the strut, but not necessarily an increase in pressure which makes the situation worse.
So it would not be a surprise that what you saw was a vehicle that looked very stable. My Jeep, 5700 lbs, rides very stable. But, that is the problem. It is to stable because I have right at the bare minimum of allowable shaft exposed. Thus, it rides rough particularly on slow stuff. Going fast is better as the strut goes through the nitrogen stage of dampening quickly into the oil stage cushioning the hard hits better.
