Steel Beadlock Question

lowbudgetjunk · Jan 23, 2014

I have a well worn set of Beadlocks I bought from Adam Lee. As my name suggests, I want to come up with a solution that is cheap to put these Beadlocks back onto the trail. He drilled out one of the valve stems and put in a tube. I searched here and pirate and found a guy that put an npt fitting for quick air down, and redrilled and tapped for a valve stem. I did not see anything for repairing a larger hole.

My newb question is, after I replace my piece of metal and weld it in, what should I do to ensure it doesn't leak down from the new piece of metal? I am not worried about it balancing due to it being 100% offroad only and never over twenty miles an hour.

bad80cj · Jan 23, 2014

Bring it to me

I will weld it up and make it right. No problem :****:

BUG-E J · Jan 23, 2014

Those are my old wheels. I always figured I would weld it up or find something like this if I had kept them. http://www.gemplers.com/product/TRSP2/Tubeless-Large-Bore-Spud

JRowe · Jan 23, 2014

Just weld the hole up.

lowbudgetjunk · Jan 23, 2014

bad80cj said:
Bring it to me I will weld it up and make it right. No problem :****:

Want to mount some tires while you are at it? I'm running out of small projects on the Jeep and I'm running out of excuses as to why it's still in the garage

zukimaster · Jan 23, 2014

After you weld it up, dab some silicone around it just for good measure!

lowbudgetjunk · Jan 23, 2014

zukimaster said:
After you weld it up, dab some silicone around it just for good measure!

That is part of what I was worried about being steel. Rust and time. I figured I would paint then silicone, just didn't know the best method

al1tonyota · Jan 23, 2014

If you weld a square piece of thin plate on the inside then fill the hole with weld then grind smooth it shouldn't leak! Or even be noticeable

bad80cj · Jan 23, 2014

al1tonyota said:
If you weld a square piece of thin plate on the inside then fill the hole with weld then grind smooth it shouldn't leak! Or even be noticeable

85toyo · Jan 23, 2014

al1tonyota said:
If you weld a square piece of thin plate on the inside then fill the hole with weld then grind smooth it shouldn't leak! Or even be noticeable

This is what I did to mine when I moved my valve stems toward the center of the wheel. I didn't bother grinding them since they are fugly anyways.

grcthird · Jan 23, 2014

How big is the hole? There are valve stems available for bigger than standard holes. If that makes sense.

al1tonyota · Jan 23, 2014

grcthird said:
How big is the hole? There are valve stems available for bigger than standard holes. If that makes sense.

they are drilled a little bigger than a stem on a tube 5/8's maybe a little bigger

zukimaster · Jan 23, 2014

Swing by a tire store, big rigs, and tractors have bigger valve stems, might be able to score some and drill your hole to match

tommyswheelin · Jan 23, 2014

Mines got 2 sets of holes. I just ran 2 stems in each wheel. No problem here

kushKrawlin · Jan 23, 2014

Had the same issue, happened to be a professional afro engineering, I used black RTV, "The Right Stuff" screwed my valve stem on, never had any issues at all. This was something that had to be done asap while wheeling, and just kind of forgot about it. It worked for me anyways. Just a dark idea. :afro:

Worros · Jan 23, 2014

bought a set of wheels a while back and put myself in that same position.
The valve stem holes were drilled to 5/8" for tubes. I got valve stems from a tractor trailer tire shop, popped them in and they never leaked a bit

kmcminn · Jan 23, 2014

Kel, if you can't find a bigger valve stem. In a couple months when shop is completed we will weld them up.

lowbudgetjunk · Jan 24, 2014

I may see if Ryan wants any part of them. I just like the idea of a second fitting to quickly drop the air pressure without having to mess with the valve stem core. I think if the hole is welded up and two new holes are drilled, that is going to be the best option.