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Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

Not portraying on the 2 10'sor12's idea but with the rite box builder and 1 12 or 10 can smoke the sound of 2 ordinary subs,that's with the rite sub and ported box

I'm a JL audio freak or use to be anyway
JL audio v2 series or better
Kicker solo baric

Both of these with the rite size stealth and u would be shocked at the sound of just one woofer

I'm kinda out of date on this stuff but use to do a lot of heavy installs known brands will never let u down if wired rite

JL audio, kicker, Memphis audio, mb quart,precision power, as far as some subs
Rockford fosgate, kicker, clarion, precision power, hi phonics,alpine, kenwood, as far as some amps

Just to name a few

Hope this helps in any way
 
Re: Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

85toyo said:
I have two 10's in a down firing box and like the way they sound. Normally stay turned all the way down unless we are out having a few beers but it's there if I'm in the mood for it. I think mine are power bass :dunno: The audio shop I bought them from said they were made by JL and would be the best sub for the small space they were going in.

How long have you had them? The Powerbass S-10's look to be pretty good for the money, they are fairly cheap, like right around $100 for the pair vs. The $70 a pair for the Pyles I've been looking at. I just don't know anyone personally that's owned any Powerbass subs and of course anybody thats puts a vid on Youtube about their subs are gonna be biased about their opinions on them since they own them. I've had Pyles before and was pretty satisfied...of course they were also in a memphis box in the back of a Yukon which is key to sounding way better than anything in a small sealed box in a truck. So Idk. I'm just trying to squeeze the most sound out of what space I've got to work with with budget equipment. Too many variations, combos, brands, etc to make it an easy decision of what to go with lol. And is your downfiring box a single long box with dual speakers? They also make individual downfiring boxes which would be handy so I could mount my amp on the floor between them instead of having to mount it somewhere behind the rear seat if I were to buy the single box with dual 10" subs.

Sent from my DROID4 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
 
TacomaJD said:
I'm just curious if any of yall have any input on wheather to go with 2 10's in a underseat downfiring box or a behind the rear seat box with 2 12's or 10's. Seems like from watching youtube vids and reading a bit, the downfiring 10's sound pretty good. Plus there's a downfiring box made that allows over 6" of mounting depth, usually behind the seat boxes only allow about 5 5/16 mounting depth, limiting your woofer selection.

My goal is either 2 10's or 12's (most likely 10's) wired down to 1 ohm on a 1 ohm stable monoblock amp. Just having trouble deciding on a speaker/amp combo. I've used Pyle subs and really liked them because they are cheap and relatively dependable and sound great in the right box, so I'll prolly go with Pyle subs again and maybe a Hifonics mono block or something, idk...still researching. I don't want to be dissappointed after install.

Without getting into a lengthy discussion about how to properly build a box determined by calculations using the Theile Small Parameters it just depends. The parameters allow for proper fitting of woofers to available air space aka size of box in cubic feet. It will also determine how hard or low they will hit. Box design and loading as you mentioned firing down also determine "impact". There are sealed, ported, 4th-8th order "bandpass" boxes, horn, slot loaded, labyrinth which aren't usually applicable in auto situations and finally you can isobaric load any of those. Isobaric is where you load two woofers face to face or one behind the other and it allows for smaller boxes and harder hitting. So my box is a straight forward sealed box but we are building a 4th order bandpass with a single Orion 10" 1000w in it for the boy. Boxes also force how well the bass is especially bandpass stle. For example my sealed setup although it has a better QTC (quality of bass response across the bass frequencies) is 3 dbs down 42 and the single or 4th order bandpass (sealed on one side and ported on other) box for the boys Orion 10" will come out to be .5 ported chamber and .8 sealed chamber and will be 3 dbs down at 28 hz with a higher spl range than both my woofers between 30hz - 60hz. His will be horn loaded off the rear hatch too increasing the time to travel before hitting occupants. Basically the wavelength of bass is non directional and for the lower frequencies takes more time to develop and why often it's heard further from the vehicle.

Sorry to blab. So it depends on the type of woofer, box and even more so the parameters of the sub woofer. The type of music u listen to also has impact on what box to make etc..... Not all subs are created equal or have good parameters for every situation. Certain woofers are better sealed than ported, vis versa etc..... I can run whatever woofer you have and tell you the best box you could use for anyone who wants me to. I'll just need to know the model number of the sub and what your listening habits are aka what type of music do you listen to.

BTW, back in the late 80's before bass offs were norm I had a car with 16 12" woofers isobaric loaded with 5000 watts behind it producing 149 dbs. thumb.gif

Anywho I ramble, love the topic! Let me know if you want me to run a sub in a certain box! :drinkers:
 
Re: Re: Re: Subs/Amp in a 2500HD Help!

TacomaJD said:
How long have you had them? The Powerbass S-10's look to be pretty good for the money, they are fairly cheap, like right around $100 for the pair vs. The $70 a pair for the Pyles I've been looking at. I just don't know anyone personally that's owned any Powerbass subs and of course anybody thats puts a vid on Youtube about their subs are gonna be biased about their opinions on them since they own them. I've had Pyles before and was pretty satisfied...of course they were also in a memphis box in the back of a Yukon which is key to sounding way better than anything in a small sealed box in a truck. So Idk. I'm just trying to squeeze the most sound out of what space I've got to work with with budget equipment. Too many variations, combos, brands, etc to make it an easy decision of what to go with lol. And is your downfiring box a single long box with dual speakers? They also make individual downfiring boxes which would be handy so I could mount my amp on the floor between them instead of having to mount it somewhere behind the rear seat if I were to buy the single box with dual 10" subs.

Sent from my DROID4 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

I've had them close to four years now and they are in a single box with a 800 Kenwood amp. I wouldn't hesitate to buy them again. As far as the price goes I'm not sure how much each individual piece was. My wiring and amp were already in the truck when I got there and he charged me 400 for the new box, both subs, and mounting the amp in a new location.
 
jb said:
Not portraying on the 2 10'sor12's idea but with the rite box builder and 1 12 or 10 can smoke the sound of 2 ordinary subs,that's with the rite sub and ported box

I'm a JL audio freak or use to be anyway
JL audio v2 series or better
Kicker solo baric

Both of these with the rite size stealth and u would be shocked at the sound of just one woofer

I'm kinda out of date on this stuff but use to do a lot of heavy installs known brands will never let u down if wired rite

JL audio, kicker, Memphis audio, mb quart,precision power, as far as some subs
Rockford fosgate, kicker, clarion, precision power, hi phonics,alpine, kenwood, as far as some amps

Just to name a few

Hope this helps in any way
What Joe said. My brother has 4 12''s behind the seat of his f250. they only cost $25 each and has a Memphis 1000 on them. Its all in the box even cheapo speakers sound good
 
You can make a cheap speaker in the right box sound like a million bucks! :dblthumb: Box, tuning & design are a good % of the equation. Power and eq or bass enhancements can also make turd setups rock to a degree. :driving: Love some JL Audio though. Years ago my brothers 1986 Toytoa MR2 rice burner had 4 JBL (Junk but Load ;) ) 10's in it in a very unique pressure release custom enclosure. :driving:
 
I'm prolly just gonna pick some cheap junk and hope for the best, my expectations ain't super high or I would be putting more $$$ into everything. I'd like to get subs/amp/box for between $300-$350.

Hey 85Toyo, is your box like this with the extra hump on top to allow for deeper mounting speakers? Mounting depth 6 1/8" $170
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370793515831?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1182wt_917

Or like this? mounting depth 4 1/2" $90
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230968271869?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1794wt_981
 
My box is flat across the top but I'm not sure of the depth. It's in a 2000 1/2 ton extended cab so the options may be a little different than the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.
 
85toyo said:
My box is flat across the top but I'm not sure of the depth. It's in a 2000 1/2 ton extended cab so the options may be a little different than the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.

Yes they are way different. I don't think the powerbass subs will fit in the flat top box for my truck and may not even fit in the one that has the extra raised humps. I gotta find the best budget beatin' subs inside my mounting depth limits and that sucks molaugh. Especially when the difference between flat top/raised humps boxes are $80 difference for barely over 1 1/2" more mounting depth clearance. But at least you 2nd'd my thinking of the downfiring boxes sounding good, most likely better than one behind the back seat. :dblthumb:
 

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