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TC STALL.. My God, Is it really this hard?

kushKrawlin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
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in tha garage blowing smoke...
Ok. Well, after hours and hours of tryin to find some info on today converters, Im pretty much still confused about a few things.. Ok , so I recently learned that my stall is to high.. There's no just givin it a lil gas, it's pretty much hammer it, or when I put my tire on a rock, I have to gas it so much its dam near impossible To stop by the time it's to the top. So after all this research and reading here are a few things I have learned ..
1. Tires, weight, motor, etc play a big role so each rig is diff (I get it)
2. To high of stall and Ya in my boat, to low and it wants to push through the brakes, and down billing can suck, some have to knock it in Neutral, (mine pretty much feels like coasting in neutral, some times I bump the gas to get it to catch, or get some engine brake)
3. There's no tag Or stamp with stall printed on it., so Ya have to get in dirt/yard and put in gear with foot on brake give gas till tires spin, at that rpm is gonna be your stall.. (please tell me this is not have a transmission shop does it! Haha )
4. (My FAV) there's no definite way in figuring the stall that's perfect , so trial and error, taking transmission in and out, not to mention the $3-$600 they cost ..(oh hell yes, sounds awesome)
My Prob is I have no clue what the hell mine is, (gotta be high) but I wanna get it right.. Any advice would be awesome, starting to get frustrated! My rig has a 400 sbc, 4:56 gears, no205/th350 and 40" tires.. If that helps? I really wanna figure this bullshit out, so please feel free to share any input.. This is really confusing **** for a Dumass like me.. Thanks fellas
 
I'm getting ready to order one for my buggy in the next few weeks I'd like to hear some info on this as well.

If u end up buying a new one and can figure out what yours is I'd be a buyer on it!!
 
From my experience, if you speak to a manufacturer such as PTC or TCI they will ask a lot of info regarding engine, cam size, gearing, weight and tires. Based on that information and what you plan to do with it they can point in the right "range." My bet is the guys at PTC, who sponsor people in this sport, have a good idea of what we do in this sport and you might want to try talking with someone there.
 
I think some of what you are talking about. Like how it blows the tires off on rocks. All at once maybe how tall your your gears are. That is a high geared transfer case and fairly high geared axles. May have some to do with the stall. .but probably not all of it.
 
Re: Re: Re: TC STALL.. My God, Is it really this hard?

kmcminn said:
I think some of what you are talking about. Like how it blows the tires off on rocks. All at once maybe how tall your your gears are. That is a high geared transfer case and fairly high geared axles. May have some to do with the stall. .but probably not all of it.
X2


The lack of low crawling gears in your rig makes the problem much worse. And if you put a low stall converter in it, it may not have enough power down low in the rpm range to crawl.

I'd do doubler first
 
I'm running the typical one ton wrangler. Got a 40 over 350 4;10,gears( which are killing me) a turbo 350 np 205 and 42's. I had a 2800 /3200 when I started out. It was awsome to blast up shooter hills but SUCKED trying to ride trails. Like you said by the time you started moving you were pretty much blowin the tires off of it. I changed it to 1900/2300 and to be honest with my gearing I wish I would of went to a bout 1600/2000 range. The 1900/2300 gave me a lot better trail riding out of it but with the high gears it will still flash to 25/2600. I wish I had the coin to run some lowmax gears in my transfer case. But right now that's not an option.. In my opinion kushKrawlin unless your running bounty hills and all out bouncing smaller is better for all around trail riding. Your cam will play a big role in what size converter you can run, along with gearing and what not.I'm running one of the comp extreme Offroad cams I'd have to look it up up but I think it's the 280/480 288/498. It's next to the biggest one they have in that series of cams.
 
I am running a 2000rpm stall Hughes GM20 and could not be happier with it. Does not run through the brakes or build heat. It hooks great when you stab the throttle. I have a stock LQ4, TH400, 3.8 transfer, 5.13 gears and 43" tires.
 
To show how gearing affects stall:

Bombshell had a 2500 stall and pushed through the brakes pretty hard (5.13 gears and 3:1 case). Changed to a 3000 and it's a lot better but could use more I think.

As far as RPMs go it stalls at 3000 in high range but more like 1500 in low range. Still pushes the brakes a little at 900 rpm idle.
 
High stalls never made sense to me for an all around wheeler, but I've never had a built motor so I probably don't really understand them. Either way though I'd rather pop the trans in neutral to stop than to rev the bag off it to trail ride.
 
Do you have a locker in the front or welded, I ask this because I bet if you have a locker that might be a lot of your problem
 
I do have a lunchbox locker in the front, a spartan, which I'm really considering sellingdue to the fact of my luck and it eating ****. I know the motor I have supposedly has a cam and has been built, that's a whole anotherquestion about why the hell wouldn't they put a stamp or something , hell engrave it for all I care, but the guy I bought it from did not build it so I have no idea what cam is in it .. All I know is its supposed to have a Voodoo cam.. I'm really not a motor guy so there's no way in hell that I'm tearing it down to look, if I did there would be many more threads asking questions about motors and how they went back together. Haha. The Dubliner is definitely in the works, Apparently the lo Max kit Will not give me figuring I would like also, gearing the axles is out of the question, so I'm stuck not knowing about my engine, or what the hell stall is in there now, call the previous owner and he said he thought the guy told him 2500 stall. I Would not bet on it but that's what he told me.. Would do the atlas deal, look at those and just as confused, went riding with some folks that had doublers, and that looks like the ticket for me. Maha is no good for anything except for the street, or absolutely hauling ass in four-wheel-drive, I love my low, it's nice for raising hell, and some crawling, but definitely not creeping.. Doubler seems it's going to be about the same as an atlas used and a hell of a lot of work, keep in mind I've never done one nor do I know anyone local that could help, but that's been pretty much the case the whole time.. Just figured if I could get the damn thing going quicker I would be better, but don't want to switch converters 10 times.. Thinking maybe tomorrow I will look the dumbass doing a burnout in the yard and see when the tires are spinning.. Haha. And report back the RPMs. I don't think he's far off with the 2500 though.. I'm with Adam I would rather have to knock it out of gear downhilling then to jump every dam rock. Thanks for the reply a fellas. Also I hate to call someone and waste their time if I don't know the specs of my Motor.
 
Try a welded front before you start changing a bunch, a lot of times lockers wont let you ease up on things without trying to spin, he'll there not made to lock up till one tire spins. Every time I've ever rode with rigs running lockers you can watch them have more trouble easing up ledges versus locked fronts. I run a built motor with a big ass solid lift cam, and a 2,500 convertor. I can ride the brakes and ease up anything I want. Something to think about and might save you a bunch of time and money,
 
Try putting you rig in 2wd high range and brake torque it. When the tires start to break loose check your tach. That should be close to advertised stall.
 
Re: Re: Re: TC STALL.. My God, Is it really this hard?

Elliott said:
Try a welded front before you start changing a bunch, a lot of times lockers wont let you ease up on things without trying to spin, he'll there not made to lock up till one tire spins. Every time I've ever rode with rigs running lockers you can watch them have more trouble easing up ledges versus locked fronts. I run a built motor with a big ass solid lift cam, and a 2,500 convertor. I can ride the brakes and ease up anything I want. Something to think about and might save you a bunch of time and money,
From watching videos of his rig, that is not the problem, the video of him on boat ramp it's pretty obvious he's geared too high/stalling too high
 
I had the front welded. got Spartan and love to be able to dam turn on pavement, but that won't matter if it explodes... just curious because I don't know, but what I locker due to cause some of the problem? Just wondering... This is what I found to be true, or very necessary to even attempt crawling up something, 1 foot stays on the break pretty much the whole entire time if not it will roll back instantly, The other is having to rev the motor nonstop there's no holding it in just a little. Like I said guys I have experience with this kind of stuff so I just appreciate the replys. This **** is driving me crazy.. And I'm not sure how long it will take me to do the Doubler.. IF. It even works when I'm done. I can already foresee a nightmare.
 
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