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Where is your ls rev limiter set?

JSmithey said:
Picked up a 120k mile lq9 today out of a 2006 escalade. Going to do cam, valve springs, push rods, trunion upgrade and set limiter at 6200. Might throw in some arp rod bolts too. Would love to spin it to 6500 but I'm a little nervous after trashing the last motor.

What can you gonna run?
 
redneckengineered said:
Mast does something similar. When I hold my throttle to the floor it just goes to wherever the limit is set (in my case 7000) and stays there. No fluttering, no bouncing. You essentially never even know you're against the limit unless you look at the tach.

Yep my motor is limited the same way. It's an electronic cut rev limiter as opposed to a fuel cut rev limiter. A fuel cut limiter creates that hammering sound. You can set it to either style of limiter on gen 4 motors but I was told that the electronic cut is a little easier on the motor.
 
If you look at that dyno graph and see how much the power drops off after 6 why are all of you wanting to spin them so hard? Just for the sound or what. Making power past 6500 takes some serious parts. The spring pressure required to turn real high will twist a stock size came core if your not careful. There use to be some good articles on the old pro stock drag trucks that were limited to small blocks back in the day. Interesting reads if your into motors like me.
 
Elliott said:
If you look at that dyno graph and see how much the power drops off after 6 why are all of you wanting to spin them so hard? Just for the sound or what. Making power past 6500 takes some serious parts. The spring pressure required to turn real high will twist a stock size came core if your not careful. There use to be some good articles on the old pro stock drag trucks that were limited to small blocks back in the day. Interesting reads if your into motors like me.

Don't go bringing logic into this. Geez!! Unless your racing, anything over 6k is unnecessary. Keep it a little lower and save your engine.
 
Elliott said:
If you look at that dyno graph and see how much the power drops off after 6 why are all of you wanting to spin them so hard? Just for the sound or what. Making power past 6500 takes some serious parts. The spring pressure required to turn real high will twist a stock size came core if your not careful. There use to be some good articles on the old pro stock drag trucks that were limited to small blocks back in the day. Interesting reads if your into motors like me.
It's easy to make power to 6500 and it's all about tire speed. I don't care if it makes less power at 7k it still turns the tires faster. And a all forged arp everything dual valve spring ls will turn 7k all day safely.
 
I agree it should turn it and live, but I bet the hydraulic lifters are floating a bit, If it's in a buggy and your buying a cam go with a solid roller, make more power and not float, then you can have some woo pow
 
pholmann said:
Don't go bringing logic into this. Geez!! Unless your racing, anything over 6k is unnecessary. Keep it a little lower and save your engine.
This guy gets it..any hydraulic lifter cam starts collapsing after 6000-6500 rpm. You want more wheel speed grab the next gear
 
redneckengineered said:
I got a 3/4 race cam in mine and it runs 10k all day long and makes power to 12k but I set the limiter to 4000 so the nut swingers think I'm hammering on it :****:

Gotta have them double hump heads to make power at 12k
 
redneckengineered said:
I got a 3/4 race cam in mine and it runs 10k all day long and makes power to 12k but I set the limiter to 4000 so the nut swingers think I'm hammering on it :****:

Don't forget the 360 degree headers and electric turbo. But keep it at 499hp because 14 bolt front ain't in the budget yet
 
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