Which coil overs to run

[al1tonyota]

I believe al1tonyota was talking about changing the dual and triple rate sliders. The dual rate slider always comes off easy with out tools. Though on some shocks you can thread the cancelation nuts off down the body of the shock. That will let you install triple rate hardware and spring from the bottom of the shock. I know sway a ways are this way. I'm guessing the Bilstiens are too after reading his post. It's more work on a King, Fox , and Raflo because you have to put the triple rate slider and tender spring on from the top of the shock.

Yes I guess thinking about it what I was doing was adding the dual rate and triple rate locks the previous owner had done away with them both causing some serious spring noise and single rating the springs. Yes the spring bucket or whatever it's called on the bottom of the shaft comes off of both.

 

[onepieceatatime]

I hope I remember to find this thread when I decide to get coilovers.

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

I'm sure it's different dependant upon rig specs, but with the new fad (for lack of better term) of using a lower coil spring that is 2" longer than shock travel and an upper spring that is equal to travel, is there really a need for triple rate anymore?

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

It's not hard to find several vendors that price Fox coilovers about the same for the cheapest price, what usually varies is cost of springs. Different brand springs cost different prices. In my opinion, for your average crawler, the high price of some springs like King are just unnecessary. I am running PAC Racing springs, which is what EOR usually sells with their coilovers unless otherwise specified, and they are fine. No sag so far. When I was looking, EOR's Fox 2.0's with PAC springs were the best bang for my buck. Never got a quote from WOD, but maybe Adam can hook you up with a deal on Fox coilovers with good springs that are not overpriced too. I found the coilovers by themselves just as cheap on ebay, but would have had to buy springs separate. Best thing to do is call all the renowned shops, get prices on total packages plus tuning if that is also desired, and go with the cheapest.

P.S. if you go with Fox's, DO NOT overtighten the set screws on the dual rate slider stop rings!!!! I had to drill one out the other day because I could not get it loose. Rounded an allen wrench off and was using wd40. Luckily they have 2 set screws per each stop ring, so I am just using 1 set screw to hold the stop ring in place on each side. (Lost a set screw out of the other side)

 

[Woodlee]

Out of curiosity if I were to bring you guys my samurai for (2) 14" and (2)16"fox 2.0 coil overs , what would you charge me to order and tune them ?

Pm me if necessary




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[John Galbreath Jr.]

Re:

P.S. if you go with Fox's, DO NOT overtighten the set screws on the dual rate slider stop rings!!!! I had to drill one out the other day because I could not get it loose. Rounded an allen wrench off and was using wd40. Luckily they have 2 set screws per each stop ring, so I am just using 1 set screw to hold the stop ring in place on each side. (Lost a set screw out of the other side)

They have changed to dual stop nuts, similar to what is at the top. You can swap the ones you have for those, but they are stupid expensive for doing all. About $15 each, or $30 per corner, or $120 to do them all.

 

[TacomaJD]

Re:

They have changed to dual stop nuts, similar to what is at the top. You can swap the ones you have for those, but they are stupid expensive for doing all. About $15 each, or $30 per corner, or $120 to do them all.

Dang, that was a fast improvement...I just bought mine last year! I guess I'll wait til I have to drill out another set screw....at least I know I have options! :****:

 

[pholmann]

What's an ideal legnth for a front coil over? 14 or 16"?

 

[al1tonyota]

Depends on your usable travels and link length.

 

[pholmann]

Links will be about 40" or so eye to eye. I generally try to keep my lowers to 36" plus heims.

 

[TacomaJD]

Mine are 14's. Really depends on your rig and what you want to do with it. If you have a full bodied rig that is going to be more of a crawler, using more down travel and less up travel, 14's will be plenty. 16's and up I think are more suited on the front of bouncers and full buggies that desire more about half and half on up travel/down travel. Most people's **** has more clearance and room in the back for travel in all directions, so 16's and up work fantastic in the rear of mine. Lots of folks will say travel is overrated, but I've also been up a lot of **** real easy while others hang up and drag **** on. Long travel is overrated to an extent, but there's not one single negative thing to be said about having all 4 tires touching the ground when flexed out, instead of toting one because suspension travel was limited.

To really get the full use out of 16's in the front, you really gotta have all your clearances worked out. Hydraulic lines if full hydro steering have to be proper length to accommodate for the longest travel it will see and ran to where they won't snag anything while suspension moves, link clearance around the frame and the bottom of the engine, tires getting into the wheel well or axle hitting bump on up travel and still having up travel left in your shock (wasted travel). Angryfab cut and re-angled my front frame rails to clear my tie rods for full hydro, accommodating for more up travel. So my uneducated opinion would say the answer is 14's in your case. I almost went with 12's because I was worried about up travel and I have a lot of ground clearance, but I'm glad I went with 14's, they are perfect.

 

[TacomaJD]

If you just have monster room for all sorts of travel in the front, you could probably get away with 16's though...so it really depends on how much your axle and links can move under the front of your rig without hitting ****.

 

[pholmann]

I run 18" air shocks in the rear of my ranger. I've ran across a decent deal on a set of 14" coil overs here locally. It's going to be on my buggy so I may opt for the 16" for it. For my ranger definitely 14". I'm building my buggy for mainly crawling but I want it to be able to bounce a little if needed. I may pick em u for my ranger.

 

[cushmaneaglerider]

Mine are 14's. Really depends on your rig and what you want to do with it. If you have a full bodied rig that is going to be more of a crawler, using more down travel and less up travel, 14's will be plenty. 16's and up I think are more suited on the front of bouncers and full buggies that desire more about half and half on up travel/down travel. Most people's **** has more clearance and room in the back for travel in all directions, so 16's and up work fantastic in the rear of mine. Lots of folks will say travel is overrated, but I've also been up a lot of **** real easy while others hang up and drag **** on. Long travel is overrated to an extent, but there's not one single negative thing to be said about having all 4 tires touching the ground when flexed out, instead of toting one because suspension travel was limited.

To really get the full use out of 16's in the front, you really gotta have all your clearances worked out. Hydraulic lines if full hydro steering have to be proper length to accommodate for the longest travel it will see and ran to where they won't snag anything while suspension moves, link clearance around the frame and the bottom of the engine, tires getting into the wheel well or axle hitting bump on up travel and still having up travel left in your shock (wasted travel). Angryfab cut and re-angled my front frame rails to clear my tie rods for full hydro, accommodating for more up travel. So my uneducated opinion would say the answer is 14's in your case. I almost went with 12's because I was worried about up travel and I have a lot of ground clearance, but I'm glad I went with 14's, they are perfect.

I don't know would have been sufficient

 

[TacomaJD]

Ah, I thought we were talking about the ranger. Yeah, I'd def shoot for 16's on the buggy if it were me.

 

[TacomaJD]

I don't know would have been sufficient

Hey, useless nonsense and rambling are not easy to come by these days....that's what I'm here for.

 

[pholmann]

I'm trying not to put any more money in the ranger until the buggy is done. It's just not happening though. I keep changing and upgrading ****. I've gotta quit so I can get the buggy done. Been building a jeep to sell to hopefully help with everything I need to finish the buggy.

 

[al1tonyota]

Honestly you can build around shocks or match shock travel to the vehicle 14" is a lot of travel for a full bodied vehicle d shaft ujoints limit down travel and frame engine and steering limit up! If you already have the ranger linked then just measure full droop and full stuff and see what you get!

 

[pholmann]

Honestly you can build around shocks or match shock travel to the vehicle 14" is a lot of travel for a full bodied vehicle d shaft ujoints limit down travel and frame engine and steering limit up! If you already have the ranger linked then just measure full droop and full stuff and see what you get!

It's linked but it's y linked with a panhard bar. The ranger frames are **** so doubt I'll do much more with it until my tube chassis is done. Then I'll probably truggyvit and get rid of as much of the weak ass frame as possible. After the buggy is done I'll do a true 4 link. It will perform much better. I'm mainly asking for my tube chassis. I just wanted to know so if I run across a decent deal on the right legnth I could pick em up.

 

[al1tonyota]

Either will work if you have to much you can always limit travel with straps!