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Budget S10 build: Senior Project

Yeah I didn't have any that would work for mockup when I put in the new spring perches and add a leafs but a buddy of mine had those really long ones so I threw those blocks on top of the springs because the bolts are so long haha. I found the right ones in the shop the other day I just haven't put em on yet.
 
so got a buncha little stuff done plus some big stuff. only things left to do, put a drop pitman arm, mount the steering stabilizer, burn in the hitch recievers and make some mudflaps (dd)

finished up the front brakes, no leaks and the little clamps on the line serve as a perfect diff vent hose holder.
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had to make a little bracket to hold the fuel lines after i cut the old shock tower out.
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started workin on the rock sliders. 2 inch tube 3/16 wall
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and heres the finish
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so yeah its all just about done, hopefully out drivin next weekend!
 
looks nice man:awesomework: sliders turned out good.. i would suggest welding the supprots to a square tab and then weld the tab to the frame instead of welding the tube directly to the frame
 
hmm didn't know that, thanks.
well i went to pull it outta the shop for the first time, got all excited and then realized i overlooked something a little important...
when i steer all the way left it max's the steering box out about a half a steering wheel turn, but it'll turn to the right 2.5 turns of the steering wheel.
I tried clocking the pitman arm a different way then after realizing that wasn't going to change anything i looked to the draglink. it's an xj dana 30 and stock steering setup.
i tried shortening the draglink and even cut about half an inch off the tie rod end to shrink it as much as possible but it still needs to be about 1.5 to 2 inches shorter.
I think we have a die that is the same threads and was thinking of grinding the drag link down and threading it to make it shorter and then be able to center the wheels and the steering box.
any other ideas, or will this work?
 
Well i got it out on friday and its a shakin a rattlin and a rollin.

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it shakes when i get on it from a stop cause of the driveline angle in the rear so i might end up going to a 1 piece or lowering the middle section a few inches.
it steers pretty straight actually, it's loose though.
the tires whine like no other but i was expecting that haha

about the same height as the burb on 33's and a 4in lift
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I took a trip to my poser rock at the school
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the front springs reverse arch pretty bad... the front already sits lower than the rear so i was thinking about getting either two inch lift ranger springs, since that's what they are, or just brand new oem ones because these ones are pretty worn out which could be the reason they arch so bad.
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and hopefully the extra 1-2 inches will keep my tire farther away from the cab. either that or i can move the axle forward one hole on the perches.
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so there it is, now comes the fine tuning haha
 
Truck looks good on the road! Its alot different than seeing it in a shop.

Those springs look like they are working fine. Just move the axle forward a little bit and rock it.
 
Thanks guys. And thanks again for all the input, if I hadn't moved the axle to the front of the frame like chop shop said I'd be pullin out some hair right now haha.
 
Well I've run it in the mud and trails a couple times now and it's a freakin tank, goes wherever the hell I want it too, I might gear the axles down cause they're at 3:73 cause I was too lazy and didn't wanna spend the money to buy new ring and pinion.
The real problem comes when it breaks. Both times I've taken it out and gone a little hard on it the adapter between the trans and the tcase shatters, like not just crack but shatters and dumps all the ATF out and I get to take the long ride to the road behind a toyota, not my favorite point of view. I think what is happening is that the crossmember I built sits pretty close underneath the tcase and when I torque it in 4low the tcase sits down and slaps the crossmember and shatters the adapter, at first I thought my driveline was too long and was binding up and pushing the tcase back so I cut the driveline down and it still broke, so I'm gonna put another adapter in, with my xmember in, run it in 4low against a tree and have someone look how far the case torques down cause if that's it then I can just fab up another xmember and hopefully that'll be it. Any other ideas?
 
If ya let it hang on the lift with the front at full droop, does the driveline roll smooth with no contact/bind in the yokes? Is it close to bind?

Problems I see that can contribute to your case spattering.

You have a soft floppy looking front pack. The soft pack can let the pinion rotate up and down under traction/torque (more so Id say than the tcase torqueing) causing axle wrap. Enough axle wrap can kill that case too.

To see what I mean have a friend help you. Take a vise grip and softly pinch off the rear brakehose. Now with just front brakes, have a friend hop in and power brake the truck in forward and reverse. Notice how much the pinion rolls from front to rear? Now add that amount of movement to the full droop clearance. Get it? Even if the DL yokes clear at full droop, they might still hit each other when TORQUE is applied in a full droop application (like dropping the front axle over a log etc)

You have the beam very much higher than the shackle mount.

The axle wants to cycle UP and DOWN. But the leaf pack is not level (parralel) with ground). Having so much angle in the pack (shackle under frame) makes the axle move ALLOT back when compressed and ALLOT forward when drooped.


Make sense?
 
Yeah it does bind a little at full droop, but I replaced the ranger springs with explorer springs cause I messed em up. They're a little stiffer but the main leaf is bending right where the second leaf ends so I might go with f150 springs cause they're pretty much the same length. So should I just get a Tom woods super flex joint and then redesign the crossmember and hope it works?
 
mounts

Common meanin are they bith rubber or both poly...hard mounting yiur case with a poly bushing while leaving your factory rubber engine mounts will put a lot of stress on the tranny and tcase castings.,.I cut the stud off my driver side engine mount , drilled a hole through the flat plate and through bolted with a 1/2" bolt,,,, problem solved and free :awesomework:
 
QUOTE: "the front springs reverse arch pretty bad... the front already sits lower than the rear so i was thinking about getting either two inch lift ranger springs, since that's what they are, or just brand new oem ones because these ones are pretty worn out which could be the reason they arch so bad.
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"


You are bending springs because they are reverse arching. I would put bump stops in, not more leaf springs.
 
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