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FJ80 axle help, newb knuckle rebuild.

TBItoy said:
Yep, ABS and Non-ABS. we discussed it in at least 2 other threads on here (ones that you started)

I don't recall that lol must've had my mind focused on something else when you mentioned it. I believe my front axle has a short birf and short flange on driver's side, and long shaft with short flange on passenger side. Gonna have to see when I tear it all apart to be sure though.
 
Re: Re: FJ80 axle help, newb knuckle rebuild.

Well either my birfs are aftermarket and too big or the Hellfire knuckle hole is too small, but you ain't getting the axle out without taking the knuckle off......so I stand corrected. I am removing the knuckles. Lol.

huba4y8y.jpg
 
josh, I found the original write up from the guy I bought the truck from
it says longfield chromo 80 shafts.
as far as the axles going into the knuckles I cant remember.
 
Not sure about your front end, but if its like a regular toy axle, the axle has to be turned a certain way and if your got aftermarket axles its a MO FO to get them out, because they are a little bigger, but they will come out without taking knuckle off.
 
there should be flat spots on the birf that you have to orient up and down in line with the trunnion bearings to get it out. and if it starts coming out but won't quite come all the way then try loosening up the knuckle and bottom cap studs a bit......and if that don't work then your knuckle ball has probably gotten smashed in a little, you can hook a slide hammer up to the threaded hole at the end of the stub and get it out that way
 
Neal3000 said:
there should be flat spots on the birf that you have to orient up and down in line with the trunnion bearings to get it out. and if it starts coming out but won't quite come all the way then try loosening up the knuckle and bottom cap studs a bit......and if that don't work then your knuckle ball has probably gotten smashed in a little, you can hook a slide hammer up to the threaded hole at the end of the stub and get it out that way

x2
 
I'm gonna fool with it some more tonight after work, I'll try turning the axle and see if it comes out. I never took it out of 4wd and back tires are still on the ground so I didn't turn it any last night.

Also thinking about going ahead and drilling out the hub on the other side like I did the driver's side and using the same 3/8 fine thread bolts. They say studs are great because you aren't loosening/tightening them in the hub every time you take it apart, but everytime I go to take the drive flange off the passenger side that still has the arp studs, the dam cone washers are stuck in the drive flange where I can't even twist them and free them with vise grips, so I end up having to loosen the stud itself and tighten back down anyway....so I may just drill it out and tap it. Driver's side that I done like that has held up to some pretty good beatings thus far.
 
From everything I read about the Hellfire knuckles, you have to pull the knuckle to get the shaft out. They're designed that way I believe
 
Correct, just talked to Billybob from Pirate who sells the Hellfire knuckles and the knuckles def have to come off. Oh well, needed to learn how to take them bitches off anyways lol.
 
Re: Re: FJ80 axle help, newb knuckle rebuild.

Fawk dem knuckles! Pin was a bastard to get out of the passenger side knuckle but got em off and removed the old Eco Seals....then lost interest in order to drank more beer.

IMG_20131102_013300_784_zps2b10adf2.jpg


Filled the seals up with grey cuz that's all I had lol
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IMG_20131102_022955_187_zps3fdd15ac.jpg

Sent from my not-so-dumb phone...
 
Both of the birfs have "Longfield" labeled on the flat spots of the bell. So according to theory, aftermarket birfs are all the "long" lengths and this front axle has "short" drive flanges on it. So I just bought some "Tall" drive flanges from Billybob (Hellfire Fabworks guy on Pirate) and hopefully that will solve my issue with losing so many drive flange dust caps. Also just ordered the Longfield wiper seals. Maybe this sumbitch will be leak free for a while when I get it back together. Maybe filling the Eco Seals with grey silicone will help their sealing longevity...only time will tell I suppose.

:drinkers:
 
I didnt read the whole thread, but I just put together a Ruff Stuff 9.5" axle for the front of my FJ40. From my research, The Marlin Eco Seals work great in everthing BUT 80 series axles. There are a lot of posts on Ih8mud about them leaking shortly after the rebuild. I just used stock ones from the dealership at $8 each.

Also I ended up using Aisin Hubs off an FJ60(gold dials), I just used my grinder to cut a new groove for the c clip and it works perfectly.
 
Re:

Technically, I don't care if the axle seals fail again, because I'm sure they will. Long as my wipers and dust caps make a good seal. Since I'm omitting the factory felt type seal and going with Bobby Longfields, at least maybe it won't be leaking all over the floor anymore. The felt had worked it's way to where it was hanging out of the driver's side knuckle, causing to leak more and more every time I wheeled. And now since hopefully I will have the drive flange dust cap issue resolved, maybe they won't be falling off and blowing gear oil all over the inside of my wheels. Lol.

If it leaks again, prolly just gonna let it leak til it stops, then put more gear oil in it. Lol
 
On my yota axles I packed the knuckle with wheel bearing grease to stop the leaking.. No trouble out of it for right at 3 years an as far as I know it's still doing good
 
All this talk about leaking knuckles, I'm surprised Frank's not on this thread yet trying to sell his ****.
 
Google "back woods goop" or Trany Frank. Most threads have been deleted from pirate and ih8mud.
'
 
Googled Tranny Frank on my work computer without even thinking.....maybe I won't hear from the front office about that one tomorrow lol.
 
Almost got it back together last night. Figured I'd update this thread with pics and links for handy info that should serve as a good log of information for future FJ80 newb web researchers.

:drinkers:

This is a link to some good info on Bobby Longfields lifetime wiper seals and best way to install them.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/339142-toyota-knuckle-lifetime-wiper-seal.html


Pics.

Bobby's wipers already come with a slit in them.
5u6y6yda.jpg


I have shiny knuckles again. Put the new Marlin Eco Seals in, axles in, packed all bearings, put knuckles on, packed them with marine wheel bearing grease for boat trailers, and bolted down steering arm.
y5aqebaq.jpg


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Next, put the spindle on with new gasket.
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Mount the hub/rotor/wheel bearings, etc.
dy2y3yte.jpg


Now, since aftermarket birfield's are standard as the "longer" length, just as you find in the 95-97 FJ80 front axles, you need tall drive flanges. The red ones are what was on my rig, black ones are the longer, correct flanges. Now I should stop losing so many dust caps as a result of the shaft sticking through too far and knocking it off on the trail.
upu7ury8.jpg


Drive flange on, put screw in shaft and pull it outward as far as it will go. Shown in the picture, everything fits precisely now. It comes just far enough out to put the snap ring on.
9u8esa6u.jpg


Hammer dust cap on next.
uqa4enu7.jpg


After paint.
nyhu8uhe.jpg


Still gotta mount calipers, install the lifetime wiper seals (link above), slap some gear oil in 'er, and she'll be ready to roll....hopefully leak free.
 
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