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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Let's see some ram mounts
- Thread starter NotMatt
- Start date
dood...that is sweet and cheap!
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
ummm-ya. Thats going to have more slop in it than what I have after a couple runs... That ram uses VERY close ends that you get with those tracker rod ends.
Huh?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
In other words--you will end up with more slop in short time than you would with my setup. You have to remember HOW much abuse your steering takes.
looking at it I think it is up to the task....
SPECIFICATIONS
Double acting
Bore x stroke 2" x 8"
PSI max. 3,000
Rod dia. 1-1/4"
Ports SAE 8
Retracted length 15-1/2"
Shpg. 16 lbs.
END MOUNTINGS
Rod end swivel-ball
Ball width 1.75"
Ball O.D. 2.75"
Pin hole 1.00"
Base end swivel-ball
Ball width 1.75"
Ball O.D. 2.75"
Pin hole 1.00"
SPECIFICATIONS
Double acting
Bore x stroke 2" x 8"
PSI max. 3,000
Rod dia. 1-1/4"
Ports SAE 8
Retracted length 15-1/2"
Shpg. 16 lbs.
END MOUNTINGS
Rod end swivel-ball
Ball width 1.75"
Ball O.D. 2.75"
Pin hole 1.00"
Base end swivel-ball
Ball width 1.75"
Ball O.D. 2.75"
Pin hole 1.00"
I like the 1" bore rod ends, but I'm in the same skeptical boat as Mike because "big" doesn't always mean it won't wear out and get a bunch of slop in the rod end in short time due to cheap materials and such.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
NEVER EVER skimp on steering parts. Never use something because its cheap with a risk of failing--ever. This is one thing I stand by and always have. I can't think of any rig that left my shop that failed due to my way of thinking...
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Those rod ends are "welded" to the cylinder. That alone tells me they are probably not of a hard material(material around the ball socket).
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Another thing you must consider on a ram too matt is you almost must be able to dissassemble it to destroke it.
This is the exact reason why I am not hot on the style of ram mount that most use... the idea of the stresses being ok because eventually the holes in the ram will just "self-clearance" gives me the willies, personally.
True, I forgot about that. I'm sure the one I linked could be disassembled, but it's probably tricker than a standard ram.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
That SC ram look like it has tractor heims on it.
uke:uke:
I dont get it?
Are you so poor or cheap that you cant just get a good ram kit?
I used to flid thru surplus center and patch together ****.
I just give trail gear 200 bones and get a ram, rod ends (that I havent seen fail), tabs/brackets, hoses, fittings, bolts etc. They are easy to take apart and limit also.
Your gonna spend 50 on heims, 50 on hoses, 10 on bolts 100 on the ram. Thats the price of the kit to use inferior materials.
uke:uke:I dont get it?
Are you so poor or cheap that you cant just get a good ram kit?
I used to flid thru surplus center and patch together ****.
I just give trail gear 200 bones and get a ram, rod ends (that I havent seen fail), tabs/brackets, hoses, fittings, bolts etc. They are easy to take apart and limit also.
Your gonna spend 50 on heims, 50 on hoses, 10 on bolts 100 on the ram. Thats the price of the kit to use inferior materials.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
If the sloppy holes bother you enough to use heims.........
.............then you will have all kinds of fun with "tie rod flop" that is going to happen when ya use heims and attach to the tierod.
Thunk right, thunk left, thunk right, thunk left.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thats why its imperative to get the ram perfect to the tie rod to lessen it. You just can't throw a ram in there and expect it to function properly. All my setups have very very minimal swing of the tie in the horizontal plane.
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Matt stop thinking so hard. The clevises aren't a super precise fit to the pin and the 1" hole you have to drill will have some slipon the pin too. I ran the same type of ram on my yota axle and it worked perfectly. Just have the tabs perpendicular to each other so at least one end can move in each vector.
I made the tabs out of 2 pieces of 3/8" sandwiching a piece of 1/4" so I didn't have to try and trak down 1" plate and cut it down.
I made the tabs out of 2 pieces of 3/8" sandwiching a piece of 1/4" so I didn't have to try and trak down 1" plate and cut it down.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
I dont think you are going to enlighten me on ram, mounting location.
It doesnt matter how you mount the ram (close, far away, completely wrong or right). If you mount one end of the ram to the tierod it will flip flop.
Mounting it close and parallel is tits but it will still flop is it has heims.
You will have to set the tierod ends at apposing angles to limit the swivel they have to keep the flop at a minimum.
The idea of changing the steering arm to a wingnut style (out front and out back) is the best, then the ram mounts to the steering arm and pushed directly on it not on the side of a tierod end.
Crash you posted a pic of you truck with the ram mounted to the steering arm/under it ina double shear deal, thats the ticket to get no swivel/flop.
If mounted to the tierod it WILL flip flop, period, location will not change that.
