Lock Right vs. Aussie Locker

Boonie Buster · Mar 10, 2009

So what do you like and why? I have been playing devils advocate with a friend arguing that his Aussie lunch box is better than a Lock-Right lunch box. What are the differences. We think he broke the pins in his lock-right up front. But I also think that if an Aussie was in the fron in the same situation it might have broke also....

What are your thoughts?

I have had a Lock-Right and was pretty hard on it, and never had an issue, I don't know much of anything about the Aussie locker other than it's a look-a-like locker... Is it stronger? I want physical proof too ! :redneck:

I will do some reading on both websites in a bit...:corn:

Boonie Buster · Mar 10, 2009

The "Aussie Locker" is made from an advanced alloy

(they don't say what kind)

Very low backlash

The"Aussie Locker" has approximately 1/2 the backlash of some other automatic lockers. The design use specialized low profile gear sets (small, wide teeth) which have almost zero backlash when engaged resulting in smoother operation. Any backlash present in the locker occurs between the cross shaft acting in the grove cut in the cam gear. Because the camming operation is smooth and progressive, rather than sharp and abrupt, it results in well mannered handling characteristics over other automatic lockers.

Load transfer and strength

The "Aussie Locker" design uses a large number of very low profile teeth which collectively do all the ramping and the driving. Engine power is transferred through the flats of all 20 teeth at the same time rather than the original standard differential which has only 2 or 4 teeth driving at a time with all the force being transmitted between two points on the curved surface of the pinion and side gear teeth. The "Aussie Locker" Has 2-5 times greater surface area over which to transfer the engine power. This means that the "Aussie Locker" can handle engine power often found in modified off road vehicles. The design of the locker result in the gears being locked when driving vs. the slipping and sliding that occurs when traditional spider and side gears turn and mesh.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Lock Right is made of "Space-age Zytanium construction for highest strength and durability"

"Only ultra strength material is used which is 67% stronger than titanium"

[FONT=arial,helvetica]Synchronization mechanism eliminates ratcheting sound typical of locking differentials[/FONT]

[FONT=arial,helvetica]Backlash effects are minimized because of special spring/saddle design[/FONT]

[FONT=arial,helvetica]Rapid, smooth engagement and disengagement[/FONT]

[FONT=arial,helvetica]Virtually transparent until its extreme traction is needed[/FONT]

:eeek:

86sasRunner · Mar 10, 2009

You can have a metal anlylist done with two and find what is the better metal therefor the better locker!:haha:

nevada · Mar 10, 2009

wanna throw detroit EZ locker in the mix?

ive got one..cant tell it from the lockright or the aussie...

not even 100% certain its the EZ.:eeek:

gasman1 · Mar 10, 2009

I have Aussie lockers front and back and have not had a problem yet.

I use the word "YET" because any thing can go wrong, but i am happy with it and recomend it any one.

TooRisky · Mar 10, 2009

Well I have only used ARB, Lock Rite and Detroit so I dont have a first hand educated opinion....so I deffer to BOOBIES....

2R

cassy253 · Mar 10, 2009

I have a lockrite rear- It was easy to install ( I did it myself :cheer

and works well.
Rome has lockrights front and rear and has never had a problem
I know nothign about any other

Totalled · Mar 10, 2009

Aussies usually are a little larger than their equivalant lockrite, and thus, have a larger surface area for more positive locking. Their material is said to be stronger than a lockrite's....

The detroit wannabes bring the suck. They must have been cast out of weak sauce cause they frequently strip the teeth of on their first, second, or third outing...

Zukiman · Mar 10, 2009

I only have had experince with lockright. They seemed pretty durable until I regeared the T case with 6.5's, then I broke two sidegears in the front....before the stock sammi birfs let go:eeek:

omc-m38a1 · Mar 11, 2009

nevada said:
wanna throw detroit EZ locker in the mix?

ive got one..cant tell it from the lockright or the aussie...

not even 100% certain its the EZ.:eeek:

Seen a Detroit EZ locker that only lasted 10 miles of street driving.

2bucu · Mar 11, 2009

Warranty's?

RUBITANk · Mar 11, 2009

i had lockrights front and rear on my sami and 31's, the locker in the rear made some noise on the pavement.... I broke my axle shaft before the locker... Now i have detroid EZ in my HP 44, with 4.56 and 38.5 boggers, I also snapped the axle shaft, and been out on many trips with the ez locker and no problems yet...

As far as aussie locker, from my web wheelin experience lol ive done alot of research on them, and from what ive read is that an aussie locker is built with higher strenght materials, and quality parts.

nevada · Mar 11, 2009

Totalled said:
Aussies usually are a little larger than their equivalant lockrite, and thus, have a larger surface area for more positive locking. Their material is said to be stronger than a lockrite's....

The detroit wannabes bring the suck. They must have been cast out of weak sauce cause they frequently strip the teeth of on their first, second, or third outing...

omc-m38a1 said:
Seen a Detroit EZ locker that only lasted 10 miles of street driving.

thats not very comforting:eeek:

i gotta pull the numbers off, and try to find out exactly what it is. it was in the rear of the 4runner i got.

Little Red Zuk · Mar 11, 2009

I don't know anything about these lockers of which you speak of.

CHOP SHOP · Mar 11, 2009

I liked cheap lunchbox lockers till Ive had three go bad in the last year alone.

If in a underpowerd light rig they seem to do fine.:cheer:

In a heavy, short, or healthy rig they tend to eat one side of the locker quickly.:booo:

The only one I hve never had fail and engages smoothly is a toyota V6 insert locker. I like those.:beer:

CHOP SHOP · Mar 11, 2009

heres one for ya, Why did they go to 2 springs instead of one?

Do 2 springs make it lock harder and work better or just hold till it absolutly has to unlock then BANG!

OR, do 1 spring not hold them enough and cause them to prematurly eat the teeth by unlocking too easily and frequently?

:corn::corn:

Boonie Buster · Mar 11, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
heres one for ya, Why did they go to 2 springs instead of one?

Do 2 springs make it lock harder and work better or just hold till it absolutly has to unlock then BANG!

OR, do 1 spring not hold them enough and cause them to prematurly eat the teeth by unlocking too easily and frequently?

:corn::corn:

are you talking lockright? I thought they had 4 springs/shafts total?:eeek: I'm just guessing again.... but two seems like it would give uneven distribution and one would be dumb....:eeek:

CHOP SHOP · Mar 11, 2009

Boonie Buster said:
are you talking lockright? I thought they had 4 springs/shafts total?:eeek: I'm just guessing again.... but two seems like it would give uneven distribution and one would be dumb....:eeek:

All of them (and thier knockoffs) have 4 pins. They used to use 4 springs to hold the pins down, one on each pin. Now they all seem to use 8 springs, two on each pin.:awesomework:

All better?:redneck:

The Jeep · Mar 11, 2009

I've busted a full-blown Detroit locker, I wouldn't run any of them with V8 power. That said, I am putting an EZlocker in the front of my Cherokee because it was just $150.