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new welder

Nuthin right now, but I've been using the MIllermatic 251 in my welding class at South Seattle Comm Coll. I think I'll be picking up a Millermatic 180 for home. I don't know when I'll be needing more than that for truck work!
 
I recently did some testing between the new 180 auto set, 212, 251. The 180 is just not enough machine, so that leaves the 21 or 251. The 212 has a much more stable arc than the 251 due to the transformer that they use in it. The 251 and the 180 use the same style transformer. The spool gun of choice would be the Miller 30A, due to it;s duty cycle. The 30A is a 200 amp 100% duty cycle, with the gas coming in thru the handle, much higher quality (made in the usa). The spoolmate 3035 and 3545 both have a 60% duty cycle and feed gas at two locations one at the front of the gun and one thru the plastic handle, that WILL overheat.

After doing a fair amount of research and testing I Recently purchased a new 212, to replace my old Napa body shop welder, that had spot, stitch, and normal welding features. I also have a Miller HPF250 tig (water cooled) that has been working flawlessly since about 84 when it was purchased new.
 
mm 210 with spoolgun and dual cylender rack and a lincoln presicion tig 185
in the next year or two i plan on upgrading to a lincoln 255 with a prince spoolgun and a miller syncrowave 250DX or a dynasty the tig will be the first to be replaced the 185's duitycycle sucks
 
Hey Guys, I'm needing a welder to do my rears up front install. I'll be welding on some hangers, IFS Box mount and some other junk.. Whats a cheap welder that would work well for my application?

What specs should I be looking at?
 
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Cheap doesn't really work when looking for a welder. The rule of thumb, is buy as big of a welder as you can possibly afford. I knew I wasn't going to be welding much over 1/4" for a long while in my 4x4 career, and although the ability to weld thicker is always better, I settled on a welder rated for 5/16 since at the time I couldn't afford much more anyway. That way, I also feel more confident that it can do 1/4 and I'm not pushing the machines capabilities if that makes sense. I also figured, its going to be my entry level welder. Once/if I need to go bigger, I can always sell this one to upsize, or just keep it as a backup for small jobs and what not.

I also knew I wanted something 220, and something that came with the ability to run gas. I knew I didn't need a spool gun anytime soon (front panel trigger switch plug not needed), and the infinite voltage settings of the Miller would be lost upon me, so ultimately I settled on a Hobart 187 (which is made by Miller anyway). I'm very happy with it, and for the price I got it at (less than $550 shipped new), it was a GREAT decision. Make sure you shop around for prices when you decide on a unit. Good luck with your quest!

http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler187/

~T.J.
 
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snap on mm250 sl
DSCN3658.jpg
 
Miller Syncrowave 350 with Coolit I. Millermatic 251.

If you can afford it, 84Totota4x4 is right; bigger machines will run smoother down low. The bigger transformers have a straighter volt / amp curve; better "Slope".

An old time weldor once told me, "welders, like Potatoes, are bought by the pound".
 
An old time weldor once told me, "welders, like Potatoes, are bought by the pound".

This is so true!!!! It all comes back to the transformer. Spend every dollar you can it will be well worth it in the long run.
 
I own a MM210, and love it!! Actually just got shop @ new place wired for it and my big air comp yesterday,and let me just say-- missed the smell of welding crap together!!!!! A buddy of mine and I started to replace the smashed rocker section on my Sami so I may be able to actually get doors on it for the 1st time since I bought this rig (6yrs ago!!!) Got it tacked in last night & gonna finish it today once we push the top of windshield forward to somewhat resemble a factory door opening!!!! :D :D :D
 
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