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Pos drums!!!

jakes89f150

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
329
Location
Bellingham
just went through my 2nd set of rear shoes in 2000 miles. First set cracked from heat in the first 100 miles, adjuster was bad. Second set just wore out, brand new adjusters but between the mud and other stuff the audjusters got locked up again.

Its time to convert to disks:
I have no problem fabbing brackets, but this caught my eye.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/productsRE.aspx?id=1229

In that picture it appears that the caliper just mounts to the plate that bolts to the axle tube.
Is that how the explorer caliper's attach?
If so ill just buy an assembly from a wrecking yard and redrill the rotor's out to my 5x5.5 bolt pattern unless someone knows of some rotors that are resonably priced that are 5x5.5 that will work
Any other ideas and advice aswell please
 
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Wow... That's kinda spendy...:eeek:

thats what i said, then again currie is very proud of there stuff.:looser:
I figure that if farrels has a 96+ explorer i should be able to pick up the plates, calipers and rotors for ~$80. I just hope the rotors have enough meat in the mounting hole area for me to make them into 5x5.5 bolt pattern
 
You have something wrong if you are eating up shoes that fast. You could fix what you've got A LOT cheaper. What if you do the rear disk conversion and still have the problem?

Could be master cylinder, proportioning valve, or brake lines.

Could be that the rear brakes are fine but wear out fast because the front isn't doing it's job.
 
You have something wrong if you are eating up shoes that fast. You could fix what you've got A LOT cheaper. What if you do the rear disk conversion and still have the problem?

Could be master cylinder, proportioning valve, or brake lines.

Could be that the rear brakes are fine but wear out fast because the front isn't doing it's job.

The first time i used the old adjusters turns out they were seized, the second set worked great at first, but ended up bottomed out somehow.
Ive wanted to do a disk conversion for a long time.
I never considered it being the master cylinder or proportioning valve ill take a look at them.
i dont see know how it could be the brake lines, please explain.
 
The first time i used the old adjusters turns out they were seized, the second set worked great at first, but ended up bottomed out somehow.
Ive wanted to do a disk conversion for a long time.
I never considered it being the master cylinder or proportioning valve ill take a look at them.
i dont see know how it could be the brake lines, please explain.

Hard lines can kink, rubber hoses fail. I've even had rubber brake hose that showed no signs of failing but an inner layer had collapsed. This will cause that caliper to not work and the other brakes do all the stopping work and wear out fast.

Wouldn't the adjuster bottoming out mean the shoes were IN too far? Sounds like mabey the hardware wasn't working correctly? Still these are all cheaper and easier fixes than a rear disk conversion.

Personally I'm not a fan of rear disks in pickups, with no weight in the back you don't want excessive rear brakes they will lockup or just be overkill. Plus its a lot of money for a mod that will not add anything to your rigs offroad capability.:beer:
 
Hard lines can kink, rubber hoses fail. I've even had rubber brake hose that showed no signs of failing but an inner layer had collapsed. This will cause that caliper to not work and the other brakes do all the stopping work and wear out fast.

Wouldn't the adjuster bottoming out mean the shoes were IN too far? Sounds like mabey the hardware wasn't working correctly? Still these are all cheaper and easier fixes than a rear disk conversion.

Personally I'm not a fan of rear disks in pickups, with no weight in the back you don't want excessive rear brakes they will lockup or just be overkill. Plus its a lot of money for a mod that will not add anything to your rigs offroad capability.:beer:

Ah ok that makes since about the brake lines.
I took a better look at the rear brakes and noticed that the idler side shoe (the thinner one, not sure what it is actually called) is the one that was cracked both times. Guess ill buy a hardware kit and some new shoes and redo it. Must of been the dipshit installer :haha: oh wait that was me :redneck:
Thanks for the help pat.
Edit:
oh on a side note my truck is 45/55 the last time i checked front to rear Front: 2650lbs
Rear: 3245lbs
shes a heavy SOB
 
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