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Yokes for Atlas and axles

canepari said:
My junk has a 4.3, th350, 203-205 doubler and I have plenty of room for 2.25" one piece front shaft. I used a 77 Dodge 60, cheated the front 1/2" to the right and I've got plenty of room.
With the Dana 300 in there I have very little clearance from the side of the th400 with 1310 yokes and a 2.25" driveshaft.. I was afraid at full droop on passenger side the one piece driveshaft might swing over and get into it. I will find out soon how much clearance I have after the Atlas is bolted up. My front driveshaft will be damn near 4 ft long though I think, if I go one piece. If I have problems I'll let you all know.
 
Beerj said:
Is 2.25" pretty typical diameter for a driveshaft? What thickness?
I don't know if 2.25 is typical It's just what I could fit in there and it's 120 wall. I'm running an EOR 1410, 120 wall kit in the front and a 2 3/8, 250 wall rear by Tatton's. I also just have a low HP crawler.
 
I assume mine are 2.25" by .25 wall. That's what was on the Jeep when I bought it. It's completely torn down for a complete redo. Like said above I think that was the only thickness that would fit in there.
 
1350 or 1410. Don't waste your time keeping 1310, especially if you're gonna be building drive shafts anyway. 1410 and 1350 is the same size cap on the u-joint, the 1410 is wider and allows for more degree of motion. I run 1350 on axle yokes and front out put of my t-case. I run a 1410 on the rear of my atlas to allow for more range of motion.
 
I have the same setup as wizzo. 1350 front on both shafts and the axle. Rear is 1350 on axle and 1410 on transfer case output. The 1410 is for the angle. No problems.
 
May have already been mentioned but if you have to buy yokes anyway 1410/1350 or whatever it is well worth the money in my opinion to go ahead and get u-bolt style. No way I would run under a 1350 and if I was having new driveshafts made I would have it all made the same. Only carry one-two spare joints if all are 1410.

Everybody has their fav driveshaft folks but I have always used Tom Woods driveshafts. Mine are .375" wall thickness as far as I know. Raced a few different series for 3 years and driveshafts have been in buggy for 4+ years. Never had a failure of the driveshaft and only broke one 1410 ubolt yoke on the Dana 60 when I had it. Tom's driveshafts are usually around $350 shipped. That's hard to beat.
 
Re:

Tom wood's here as well. 5 years in my buggy. Had four shafts made, (2 for spares), took 4 years to eat one joint finally. Never had any other failures.


Matt
 
Thanks for all the comments. Great feedback. The last drive shaft I had made was for my XJ with 1310. The local shopped charged my about 380 so I will definitely give Tom Woods a call. I'll just do 1410s and call it good. I'm not racing. Just aggressive trail riding. Lol
 

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