Does anyone know someone who can do this for a good deal? i would try it myself, but i dont feel like messing it up. and places are wanting like a grand to do the whole diff. with axles and seals. i just want the tubes cut to length an i can take care of the rest. let me know! thanks CHRIS
its because the demand is higher. most people who have 35's and 17's are full size trucks because they come stock with 17s. With barely any lift they can put those bigger tires on it. since more people do that than people with 15's going to 35s, it makes sense business wise to jack it up cuz...
oh really? well that would make life a lot easier. im seeing it tomorrow, so ill know a lot more after that :)
so if it has a bleeder screw, do i still have to take the master out and bench bleed it? or can i do the raise it in the air and bleed it like regular?
man thank you guys SOO much! i wont even be able to look at it til mon or tues. All i know is he said he put a new master cylinder and slave cylinder in and im guessin he did not bench bleed the master.. It also sounds like its the older model without the bleeder screw. :looser: So without...
so a friend of mine changed his slave and master and now cant bleed it. i looked into it a little and heard that you have to raise the front end like 3 or 4 for feet in the air?? What is the reason for this and whats the best way to bleed it?
the only way i could find was to lift it 4 feet in...
HA! quite a bit more pull then your regular front wheel drive car.. i have to turn the wheel about half way around to correct the steering when im accelerating. dont remember having to do that in ANY front wheel drive car.
thanks a lot!!! yea i havent gone above 50. and if i drove on the highway in 4 low i hope someone would shoot me and take my license for being such a dumbass :looser:
yea i thought it would be different without the rear in. thanks!! the torque steer is when im accelerating and it pulls to the right then i have to correct it until i let off the gas.. right?