Is there a shop in Snohomish County that can straighten a bent Toyota axle housing?

My SECOND toyota front axle housing for my SAS swap on my 4Runner appears to have a 2mm or so bend in the long side...

Is there anything that can be done to fix this short of buying a new housing? Seems that it's getting harder to find a straight 25 year old axle housing....

2MM......you call that bent?

Bobby Long does them i think...:eeek:

they rolled off the lot bent.

You will never be a happy customer.

Binder said:

2MM......you call that bent?

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CHOP SHOP said:

they rolled off the lot bent.

You will never be a happy customer.

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No ****, when you have to cut the knuckle ball off to remove the birf it is bent. Otherwise it's just another day in the world of sheetmetal housings. :redneck:

I been wheelin a bent front for years now.

The top of the drivers tire just keeps tippin in. I have reset the toe measurement a few times to keep up with the moving tin.

Ruffstuff here I come.

So you all don't see a problem running it? I have a really nicely made Ballistic Fab upper truss I haven't welded on yet... If there was a way I could put some downward pressure on the axle when i weld up the truss, i would feel just fine about it, but I don't see how I can apply that flex while I weld it together....

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/dma251/DSC06045.jpg

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/dma251/DSC06048.jpg

put it in a press and weld it....

Bad news they are all bent. Wheel it.

Fixed!:redneck:
Now, how can you tell it's bent without something supporting the weight of the end of the axle sticking out by this pic????

zukkev said:

Fixed!:redneck:
Now, how can you tell it's bent without something supporting the weight of the end of the axle sticking out by this pic????

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Because if I rolled it upside down it would still be holding to the edge of the oil seal cavity. If I force it to the center, the splines in the 3rd start to bind up just a touch past the center position...

...If any of that makes any sense at all.

Hey, if you guys say its okay to run it like that, I'll weld on my truss and run it like that. I just don't want to damage my diff by running it like that with that side deflection on the Aussie Locker I have in there.

Ran mine for years bent. Finally had to cut it in about 4 chunks to get everything apart. Diff was fine biffs were fine.

Just heat and shrink it, heat a quarter size spot on the bottom side and quench it with water may have to do it in more than one spot. We do this all the time to straighten housings if they are bent or warped .

rocktoy said:

Just heat and shrink it, heat a quarter size spot on the bottom side and quench it with water may have to do it in more than one spot. We do this all the time to straighten housings if they are bent or warped .

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I actually thought about that idea. The only issue I can see is that my housing is an 85, and has the full length factory truss under it, preventing me from heating along the bottom.

Should I try heating an area near the outside of the spring perch? The bottom is what needs the heat, to pull the housing down, I am 95% sure of....

Also, this new truss I want to weld on is a lot thicker (3/8") then my last one. I am afraid of warping the hell out of it again when I am welding it on.

Any suggestions for me for welding it on? Little stitch welds with long cooling periods? I don't want to spend a week welding this on....

dma251 said:

I actually thought about that idea. The only issue I can see is that my housing is an 85, and has the full length factory truss under it, preventing me from heating along the bottom.

Should I try heating an area near the outside of the spring perch? The bottom is what needs the heat, to pull the housing down, I am 95% sure of....

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Likely the area that's bent...:awesomework:

dma251 said:

Any suggestions for me for welding it on? Little stitch welds with long cooling periods? I don't want to spend a week welding this on....

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Can't have it both ways...try heating/quenching the bottom side to straighten, then take your time welding on the top truss...

... if you think it is bent now, weld that truss on and see how bent it gets..

Binder said:

2MM......you call that bent?

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damn, dude don't run it!!!:eeek: thats way bent. but if you want I'll give you 20 bucks for it?:awesomework:

Poohbair said:

... if you think it is bent now, weld that truss on and see how bent it gets..

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Well, Poohbair, I am all ears here asking for suggestions.... So are you suggesting don't bother with the truss and just run it the way it is?

My thought was to leave the axle mocked on the truck and tightened down with a floorjack under the center of the housing to keep tension on the axle housing, and lay down a couple of 1" stitch welds to the truss to hold everything in place. Then remove the axle and finish welding it on the bench with lots of cooling cycles and small welds...