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Upside down 4 link?(rockwells)

Nuts

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I've been setting up my 4 links the same way for years because its worked good for me, but now with rockwells I'm going to have the uppers straight back and the lowers will go to the center of the axle. Will my same numbers work upside down? I make the uppers70% the length of the lowers, and make the frame separation 1/2 the distance of the axle separation
 
It might work, but my gut reaction is to have the lowers wide on the axle and narrow on the chassis. I think that this would limit the joint wobble that might let an axle move. My opinion.
 
Re: Re: Upside down 4 link?(rockwells)

It will have a really low roll center. The axle will pivot from a really low point and make the diff swing a lot when flexing. This is even worse on a Rockwell since the diff is tall.


The general consensus is that setup doesn't work very well.
 
So what is a good set up? Try to set them up as much as possible like a non rock axle? I have room for a truss over the rear axle, but no way one is fitting up front.
 
Look at Pictures of the Blower buggy Adam (WOD) built for Nazier. The front axle is set up that way. You might give Adam a call.
 
A quick google search and it looks like a lot of guys run the uppers straight with the lowers close together at the frame and wide on the axle. :dunno:
 
Re: Re: Upside down 4 link?(rockwells)

TBItoy said:
It will have a really low roll center. The axle will pivot from a really low point and make the diff swing a lot when flexing. This is even worse on a Rockwell since the diff is tall.


The general consensus is that setup doesn't work very well.

Two guys in my crew run it and it does work pretty good. But, you have to have very long links to overcome its downsides.

I tried using it on my chassis but it was a no go. My lower links ended up being too short for it and it did two things really bad. It not only swung out from under chassis side to side bad but also did this on a roll axis as well or what people call steer angle.

The turd on the housing causes your lower links to be kicked back from axle center line more then 8" to 10".

I ended up changing it to uppers slightly angled in towards axle end (as close to chunk as possible) and lowers wide at axle and come together under chassis. This eliminated all the problems with what we call reverse 4 link design.
 
My old buggy that I sold had this same type setup except it was a true wishbone setup. The bottom links on it came of the chassis into one on the front of the housing. With my new one that I am building I chose a similar setup but am running two links to the housing. This setup does cause the axles to walk out from the chassis but I think it has some advantages. My brakes and my steering is on the front of the axle front and rear. Plus you don't have that link that runs out to the outside of your axle that you get hung on after you drop off of a rock. I do think the triangulated 4 link setup is better but I like this way too. ;D
 

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You talk about a damn weird setup look at this one and I didn't do it I acuired it with the rig and it swings also when flexed and I can get shocks on it anywhere that will actually work :dunno:
 

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Re:

Check out mudpro metalworks. He has a link mount to put the uppers out beside the chunk. Allows you to run a setup like your familiar with but keep the height down
 
guys is it a rule of thum that the lower links be same length as tire hight like 44 inch tires would equal lower length from bolt to bolt be at least 44 inchs is that how you determine length of a upper and lower is from bolt hole to bolt hole no matter if its strate or angled and lets say you have 10 inchs seperation on the axel from upper to lower link is it safe to say on other end need to have 5 inchs there with strate upper and tringulared lowers
 
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