Samurai 3 link question... Riddle me this... Dammit.

That's fawkin it! I need an answer to this.. About to start links on the samurai , I have about 20 hours looking and reading and biting finger nails.. I still cannot ****ing figure Out why the hell anyone would run the upper link on the front over the chunk? In other words the link will be close to the drive shaft.. Total opposite of my 3 link set up.. But chunk is on the same side as mine. I've noticed that about 90% of the people run the link on the passenger side For some reason.. Anyone tell me why!?? It's driving me mad. :****: why not run it like mine is set up , where the panhard and upper link axle mounts are on the driver side?? Opposite of the drive shaft!?? Gonna post a pic to make sure we are on the same page!
I may be over thinkin this and it may not matter.. I just have to know why the hell anyone would go to that side with the upper link ... I'll be goin full hydro if that has anything to do with this... Thanks for any advise. I'm frusterated. Bad. No finger nails left to bite off. :****:

Tell me it's not because of exhaust...

I faintly remember something about the 3 link upper link on the tube being prone to twisting the tube out of the housing, not really relevant on a yota housing. That said, my waggy's upper link is on the long side tube(driver side) to clear the starter/driveshaft.

Most track bars will run driver frame to passenger axle so that it still works with a steering box, seen plently of full hydro set ups running it the other way to clear the top of the chunk.

Why not use a wishbone?

It seems that the chunk is close to high enough to make the right amount of seperation without having a tall mount sticking up off the axle! The upper link will move up and down at the same angles as the driveshaft so clearance shouldn't be a problem. If you have the panhard bar go from driver side frame to pass axle you can use a crossover steering or hydro assisted. Don't buck the system there are to many out there that work great!

Re: Samurai 3 link question... Riddle me this... Dammit.

Here's mine, works great, never give any problems, out of the way of everything, just have thick brackets and good welds.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Re: Samurai 3 link question... Riddle me this... Dammit.

zukimaster said:

Here's mine, works great, never give any problems, out of the way of everything, just have thick brackets and good welds.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

That's how my Sammi was set up and worked fine for me. Like he said, thick brackets and good welds.

Ok. Thanks for the advise fellas.. I'll nig rig it as usual and hope for the best.

Re:

That's a radius arm , not a 3 link.

And the best reason for putting the top link on a 3 link on the opposite side of the axle as the diff, is that when the diff side drops and other side compresses, it rolls the pinion up toward the tcase (or keeps it more upward facing).

With a radius arm, I'd put it on the diff side (for the same reason)

Re:

TBItoy said:

That's a radius arm , not a 3 link.

Click to expand...

Was thinkin this but wasn't sure. And didn't wanna get a flame session going. :****:
That HAS to react diff than a 3 link correct? But at tha same time anyone that's seen chads **** run knows its as cApable of any rig in the park..

Re: Re:

kushKrawlin said:

Was thinkin this but wasn't sure. And didn't wanna get a flame session going. :****:
That HAS to react diff than a 3 link correct? But at tha same time anyone that's seen chads **** run knows its as cApable of any rig in the park..

Click to expand...

Yeah radius arm will work fine, especially if the arm is flat/almost flat at ride height

Rock "crawling" ain't rocket science! You want your vehicle low, low gears, as big a tire as your drivetrain can handle, all the parts to stay on or under the vehicle, a decent amount of travel. Therefore if you want to build you a link suspension make it stronger than you think it needs to be the first time, try and use a calculator to get your angles, seperation and lengths ; adjust for stuff in the way weld it up and go riding! :****: oh and it's OK to use airshocks on them too

Just make sure of one thing when building on a samurai frame.

Fish plate everything that's gonna bear some load.

The sami frame is stupid thin and anything welded to it is going to rip that frame apart when force will be applied.

Since my TCase was not a weak part on my rig (Mighty Kong + Aluminum housing), I had my transfer case bracket completely rip out, leaving a 6" diam hole in the frame. And my TCase on the ground.

That's why many people plate the chassis completely, essentially doubling the thickness.

I copied onetoncrawler's setup, but I'm full hydro.



Prior to the 4 link I ran the Clayton 3 link setup. It actually places the upper link on the outside of the drivers frame. There just isn't much room with a long tube header to put it inside the frame. You can see it in this pic.

Why a 3 link over 4 link?

In a really low rig like mine, there's no room for a 4 link, everything's in the way, it's good for a little no power rig.

I figured it was a space issue. Never messed with any sammies.

zukimaster said:

In a really low rig like mine, there's no room for a 4 link, everything's in the way, it's good for a little no power rig.

Click to expand...

Mines 17" belly on 39 at ride height. While the links aren't as long as most prefer, I don't get any funky driveline angles even with the low pinion and it crawls like a goat.

I would think the tons would be easier to Fukin work with.. These cute yota axles are Fukin tiny... Not just tons. The Dana style axle seems to be easier to work with.. Maybe it's because I ain't never messed with yota axles, but I find myself second guessin my ****. Who knows. I know I need some brackets. Fukers ad up quick! God I'm such a cheap ass. Fukin sucks spending money on somehting that sits don't it?

kushKrawlin said:

I would think the tons would be easier to Fukin work with.. These cute yota axles are Fukin tiny... Not just tons. The Dana style axle seems to be easier to work with.. Maybe it's because I ain't never messed with yota axles, but I find myself second guessin my ****. Who knows. I know I need some brackets. Fukers ad up quick! God I'm such a cheap ass. Fukin sucks spending money on somehting that sits don't it?

Click to expand...

For the weight and the horsepower you have, you can't beat them with a stick. Removable thirds, cheap RCV's, good truss and knuckles and you'll see. Basically half ton axles but way lighter. I have been in buggies and trail rigs and a hill killer or two. For the price, a Zuk buggy just can't be beat. Eddyj would even say it is the same as Solo Buggy