Pole Buildings

JPFREAK · Jan 5, 2007

Has anyone had one of these put up? Gonna need to put up a large shop at my new place, and I'm thinking a pole type structure is the way to go.

I know a guy who used M&W Pole Buildings out of Oregon. It's a really nice building 40'x71' wood sided with a metal roof.

Anybody have any experience with M&W or another (possibley more local) company?

TreeClimber · Jan 5, 2007

Kev,
I'd check with Bill, see if he has any insights as he's in construction business.
T.

JPFREAK · Jan 5, 2007

TreeClimber said:
Kev,
I'd check with Bill, see if he has any insights as he's in construction business.
T.

Yup, I'll check with Bill.

Symon623 · Jan 5, 2007

Where ya movin to Kevin?

Brian H · Jan 5, 2007

Town and country permabilt pole buildings.

pokey · Jan 5, 2007

didnt danny simmonson have one done a couple years ago?

Hip · Jan 5, 2007

have em put radiant heat in the floor when its poured, you will love it if you do....worth the extra $ in my book as i dont have it in my shop...:booo:

bobracing · Jan 5, 2007

Yep, still having one built.

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6805

The shop doesn't look much different than the last picture and I am having a very hard time getting the yahoos to come over and finish it, that last picture was before thanksgiving.

Pole building are NOT very sealed either. The corrugated siding has holes top and bottom, there are plugs to deal with this but I'm just going to foam all the hole, this also go for doors and windows. I believe the plugs plus a house wrap would seal the shop up fairly nice.

If your going to insulate more than just standard blank they give you, get commercial girders. These Girts run 24" on center (see pictures at link above) and flat between posts similar to a wall on its side. Insulation will fit in-between and sheet rock on top with a few extra boards. If a standard girt is used, it requires almost building new walls inside to run batt insulation.

Also make sure you get the correct height, a 12'-0" pole building will give you about 11'-0" under the truss.

Get the tallest doors possible.

Smaller vent windows placed high on the walls would be nice for summer time heat venting.

Addilack · Jan 6, 2007

Sean we have a m&w building here at the house that we put up ourselves. Its a longer process but it does help the cost quite a bit. And its not that hard to do, if you know the right people. Have you fully figured out what size you need/want? Our building is wood posts metal sides and roof. We havent insulated it yet (this summers project) but it does hold heat pretty well with the propane heater we have mounted in it. permits are goiing to be your biggest issue, I can give you a nember for a lady that takes care of the whole process with no headaches or atleast very minimal. Let me know if you want the number..

JPFREAK · Jan 8, 2007

My wish list:

Size 40'x80' probably 16' walls (at least one of the doors needs to be 14' for RV storage).

Metal roof

Wood sides

Sounds like I want Commercial Girders

Needs some degree of insulation and heat (not sure if radiant floors would work for me).

The shop will be split into three areas 20' x 40 for RV, 20'x40' for my home office, and 40'x40' for my "playground" (rig storage, fab shop).

JPFREAK · Jan 8, 2007

bobracing said:
Yep, still having one built.

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6805

The shop doesn't look much different than the last picture and I am having a very hard time getting the yahoos to come over and finish it, that last picture was before thanksgiving.

Pole building are NOT very sealed either. The corrugated siding has holes top and bottom, there are plugs to deal with this but I'm just going to foam all the hole, this also go for doors and windows. I believe the plugs plus a house wrap would seal the shop up fairly nice.

If your going to insulate more than just standard blank they give you, get commercial girders. These Girts run 24" on center (see pictures at link above) and flat between posts similar to a wall on its side. Insulation will fit in-between and sheet rock on top with a few extra boards. If a standard girt is used, it requires almost building new walls inside to run batt insulation.

Also make sure you get the correct height, a 12'-0" pole building will give you about 11'-0" under the truss.

Get the tallest doors possible.

Smaller vent windows placed high on the walls would be nice for summer time heat venting.

What company did you use?

bobracing · Jan 8, 2007

Parker builidngs
http://www.parkerbuildings.com/index.html

Think this is the company, someone else actually took the order and picked it up, no tax if picked up south of the boarder. I'll check the paper work when I get home tonight.

I wasn't overly impressed with the design at first but after most of it going together, seems to be OK and hasn't fallen over in these wind storms lately.

I have some better picture of the girts, just been a little lazy to post them.

checked the drawing and this is the company
drawings are crap but the city took them with engineer cals and all.

below is also a shot of what commercial girts look like.

whitepig · Jan 13, 2007

I had a 42 x 50 with 13' eves and a second story over 1/2 of it put up last year. I used the comercial gerts in mine too, made it easy to finish off with "real" insulation and sheet rock. I would highly recommend getting the 2.5" insulation "wrap" too. tightens up the building a lot, mine will hold heat pretty well, also if you are using roll up pannel doors, the insulated ones are not much more (I used A-1 door from port orchard) and not only hold heat, but they are a lot stronger.