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Caliper brackets are on, housing is painted, and brake lines ran. Now I just have to order shafts, and get the gears done.

A year later and the rear housing is finally done minus caliper mounts. They should be here in a few days and I'll get this thing off the table and get the SD60 for my LJ rigged up to put the new C on. It didn't turn out quite as sexy as I had envisioned in my head, but it will be a hell of a...

I think it’s going to be good on the pinion/caster. These axles have 10* of separation and I’ll be using the 3* balljoint deletes. So at 6* caster I can still have a 7* pinion angle. It will get driven on the street, but I’m using locking hubs so it shouldn’t be an issue.

I copy/pasted from NC4x4 after I typed it up. I've done it in the past and it worked. I'll fix it and upload the pics here. Thanks, I didn't even notice they didn't post. Edit: Should be working now. I can see them on my end anyway.

...far on the tube it needs to go. I've got a couple stops hose clamped on the tube at the right depth. I plan to use my weed burner to heat it to 450* or so and hopefully it will slide on and then I can set the angle before it shrinks back. I've got to come up with a way to rig the housing up...

Well upon further inspection this morning the C is totally screwed. The bottom pad of the C is twisted up 1/8" on the back side. The tubes are straight as can be though so I don't know what in the world happened.

Welp… Got all the grinding finished up today. Then I went at the whole thing with a wire wheel. The very last part I had to clean was the passenger side inner C. Something's not right here… I bought the axle out of '06 F-250 at a local junkyard. I saw the truck before they pulled the...

I finally drug the tons out of the barn and into the shop a few weeks ago. Got the 60 disassembled a little at a time over the last couple weeks. Today I had a solid few hours to work so I got out my favorite tools of destruction and went to work cutting all the brackets/casting off. Wasn't the...

Yeah, he did. It was featured in Crawl Mag as well. It was really cool.

Or you could put Volvo portals under it. A good friend of mine, and the man that got me in to wheeling built this one years ago. That thing was unstoppable.

You’re welcome. That would be a good haul for you.

$1500 for a front/rear set and some parts. Not sure if they’re still available or not. https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/fj80-axles-non-locking.207141/

I forgot to add that I do have a 1.25” body lift as well. I would go with a 3-3.5” spring. To buy you back some belly clearance do a stand-alone transmission crossmember and a Barnes4WD or UCF skid plate. If you’re racing it you’ll want a good skid anyways.

If you don’t mind to do a little cutting it probably would.

21.5” to bottom of the frame rail. 18” to factory skid.

I’ll try to measure it later today and let you know.

My LJ is on 4.5” springs right now on 35s and I feel like it sits a little tall, especially in the back since I removed the rear bumper/tire carrier and spare. That’s with Motobilt steel full corners, rockers, and tailgate armor. It also has Metalcloak over line front fenders. I’m planning a...

It was really handy. I haven’t wheeled a manual since that Jeep, and I sold it in ‘08, but I wouldn’t wheel one without it. I used the hand throttle a lot even in access trails to give my leg a rest.

I used a bike gear shift lever and replaced the screw that holds the handle on with a thumb screw so you could set the throttle and tighten it down. It was really nice for crawling.

Just let me know.