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sorry, i wasnt clear with my question. did you pull the lines off the MC? and sometimes with a new booster, you have to adjust the pushrod, so you have just a touch of freeplay. you MUST have some. you want to make sure the MC comes back all the wway, and can reset. otherwise it will keep the...

did you unbolt the MC when you swaped the booster? did you adjust the pushrod? or make sure it was the correct length? is it soft, or is there a lot of free travel?

you bring up a good point. as far as supporting both sides. the back of my trailer is pretty solid, as is the frame. but i always use a single jackstand in the middle, between the ramps. ive considered building some simple drop down stands for each side. never gotten to it tho....

thats what i was thinking happened too. to avoid this, throw a jackstand under the rear of the trailer.

ive got a 93 dodge 60 i'll be using. basically what was said above. should be a solid choice. it being 2" narrower was my reason for choosing it.

i know this has already been taken care of, but that is correct. a 8" toyota is really a 7.8" ring gear.

truth!:haha:

pinch, or remove and plug the vac line going to the booster. then start it. does it stay running? pull the bolts off the mc, and pull it forward, is it wet, has it been leaking?

i agree they arent ideal. but to say they have no place is sorta rediculous. people use them, alot of people. apparently they do have a place...they bolt right in...just right.:fawkdancesmiley: if they use them, and arent aware of the consequences, and arent willing to deal with it, than they...

you cant check caster by eyeballing the ball joints.

thats not exactly how that works. and theres no way you can eyeball caster. camber, sure, you can see if its way out, either direction, but you cant do that with caster. unless its WAY the hell out, and doing the road grater thing. take it in, and have it checked, thats the only way to know.

+1 my first set lasted over 160,000 miles...they were the stock ones.:;

good to hear you got it. looking forward to the write-up and explanation.

where is chop shop, and WT now?:stirpot::redneck:

indeed it is. i learned this first hand:looser::mad:

i thought you might have already seen it. do you have the ECU mounted? does IT have to be mounted/grounded? im saving this thread... my nephew is doing this very same thing right now. not sure how far along he is tho....not this far i dont think...

this isnt you..is it? if not, there might be something useful there... http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327429 and are you sure you're ignition splice is correct? doesnt it the signal from the igniton/dizzy?

i cant rememebr where at, but ive seen rebuild kits for these. IIRC, they were fuggin expensive too. not worth it. snag some hubs from a bone yard, or the FS section.

an FI toy pump will do that easily. for sure theres enough pressure. im guessing it will flow plenty too. i'll find out soon:redneck: and yeh, a carb'd toy pump is a mechanical on the engine.

turn the C so the open end is toward the back, toward you. use a big screw driver, or pry bar, in the end of the axle and pry it. with the other hand knock the clip out with a screw driver. you're going to want to change the axle seals at this time....