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I mounted the 39.5s on the rims and I know they were clean when I put them on, and I only have a few runs on them, but I can check now.

I have a set of Walker Evens 17" beadlocks and 39.5 x 13.5 irocks. The problem I am having is if I run below 7 psi I blow the inner bead pretty easy. I would like to run 5 psi but then I have to reset beads all day. I bought the rims used so I don't know how wide they are, but the tires seem to...

We have seen a crank no start with seeing a rpms and it was the fan hub sensor. Caution they are not cheap. It was still under warr. so I don't know how to check it Sorry!!!!!!!!!!

what year is the trans you have POR?

A freind wants to swap in an ax15 into his 87 Wrangler Will any ax15 work? Will his clutch work? Any other mods needed? Thanks John

We have a few in the fleet. They have good power and much better throttle response then the 6.0 or 6.4. We have not had any problems yet but it is too soon to tell. The engine compartment is sure cramped they look like a real pain to work on.

I have used a ball joint press several times. It is not perfect but it does work.

You can use a mechanical flasher with leds any good parts person will know what you need.

Have you looked at running a pillow block in the front driveline. I did on my cj and it cure my clearance problem.

I am in Arlington and have a 1.5 die for my bender if that would work. I will be making some fenders this weekend if you have the tube your more than wellcome to come by. John

You could run the lines off the valve cover to dump to atmosphere instead of into your air cleaner and see if that cures the problem and work from there.

Thanks for the info I have a fuel cell with a TJ pump in it so I should be able to do the same

What fuel pump did you use? I have a Ford Ranger one on my vortec and hate the noise.

I have wheeled both the 4.0ho and the 4.3 I like the 4.3 much better. More power better at Rpm's and better fuel. I would go with the 4.3.

Where is that crack in the third pic at up there? I have been up there a few times and haven't seen that.

When I sent my computer and harness to jim's performance, he asked what rans I was running and said he could delete the stuff for the 4l60e if I was running a th350 or manual. Mine is an 02 and I know they changed but I am sure Jim could tell you what needs done.

I would try moving the res. higher. I have seen many problems in steering system cause by the lines being ran below the intake of the pump. And what line are you using on the inlet hose to the pump, if it is not rated for suction it could be crushing under a suction.

I am not sure on the years but some of the older medic units , E-350's, had a relay on the right side of the rad that we had alot of trouble with turning on the batt light. Last time I tried to get one Ford said they were not availible anymore so you would have to wire in a standard relay.

I had the same thing happen on one of mine, but it was lound as hell of idle. Like Mike said it ate the block and crank, only good for scrap.

I have one in my jeep behind a 4.3L. I haven't wheeled it much, life getting in the way, but I like it other then if you leave it in drive it will upshift faster then I would like. So I shift it through the gears manually. When I talked to my trany guy he said that they are known for that and if...