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44044 Rancho's, something along the lines of a old Grand Wagoneer, of J10.

I have a Palomino, it's got a crank up top so there is less wind resistance, plus mine weighs less than 1,100 dry weight.

Try here: www.westtexasoffroad.com

Do a search for Redneck Ram, I think they are in TX, and they sell a decent kit, a lot less expensive than the AGR units.

I'd bet there are stock parts for that. I've seen older toyota p/u's coinverted to campers, that had a factory looking FF rear axle. Just a thought, never really examined one up close though.

This is prolly more stupid on me, than the PO. I bought a used CJ5 for parts a while back, it didn't run, but I didn't care. We trailered it home, so why worry. Well, we unloaded kinda carelessly off of a deck over trailer. Now, the funny, stupid part, I shoulda looked, he shoulda told me...

Good aluminum rims, meaning forged not cast aluminum, are probably better than steel, cuz you can bend them back if they get bent. Forged won't crack like cast aluminum. Steel is nice, cuz you can bend it back, but they are heavier than cast or forged aluminum, at least typically. But forged...

I got one 12" pusher, and two 10" pullers, the only reason I stuck the 12" on there was the "just in case" scenario. They cool the engine just fine, and I'm not running any shroud.

As to an anit theft device, both ideas will work, but I'd say one is simpler, and the other is better.:beer:

To gain 4" of lift with longer shackles, your shackles will need to be 8" longer than stock...... Go SOA, or get to trimming them fenders. I ran 36" with a 2.5" SUA lift, a 1" body lift, and trimmed my fenders as much as possible and used some TJ flares.

I agree, cut a 1" piece of tube, tack that down over the bolt head, and then tack a cover over the tube. That way you effectively enclosed the bolt head, but you aren't heating up the bolt, effecting it's strength.

With what he's looking for use-wise, Old Man Emu are pretty nice, they won't give him 3-4" of lift, but they are a godo design, and are decent on road. Once you get to 4" the leaves have to be stiff to you give that much height, especially with aftermarket made to fit kits. SOA's are great for...

eggzactly!:awesomework:

Like was said above, you can, but ten minutes underneath, and tying up the front and rear driveshaft equates to a matter of piece of mind. He can disconnect them at the pumpkins and tie 'em up.

I think it's "rev111" or something like that, there fenders are a modular design, you can go from no flare to two different widths.

x2 IMHO

I've heard the Redneck Ram kits from a group out of TX (I think, but not sure)are pretty decent units and fairly priced. Not sure if that's any help, just thought I'd give you a heads up.

Reider Racing, and Randy's R&P

IMHO, anything 4" or more in lift and you should get an SYE. If you raise the engine too much, you are curing the rear driveline angle, but making the front worse.

x4. :awesomework: