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my toy diff died with a Detroit/4:88's/and 36" Iroks *mildly built 4.2/ T18 (6.32:1) / D20 tcase

AK then PHX then likely back to TX :D

sup brad, been a while man. how you been? Hammer down bitches :fawkdancesmiley:

thanks gents :awesomework:

haha ya I hear you... esp here when it was 30 below the other night and I was winching a full size rig up a hill.

just add a plug n play wireless controller or run permanent in cab controls. what did you do/how'd you wire yours. looking at making my own like some of the stuff 12v guy offers

my old CJ5... not bad for a SWB Jeep still SUA... when finished, my current build will own any curb, any time!

King of Tahuya = JOOP :awesomework:

i built my tow bar to fit my D ring mounts on my winch bumber for my TJ, did the same for my CJ. i have flat towed from TX to WA, WA to TX and TX to AK, no issues

^this :corn:

waiting on quotes for Detroit and Grizzly

CHOP, pretty much what i was already thinking lol.

Tearing down my D44 to regear from 4:56 to 5:13. Currently have a lock right locker on hand. run it or buy a detroit? I have a detroit for the rear and ran F/R Detroits in my CJ but never ran a lock right (lunch box locker). would rather spend more money now while the axle is on stands as...

i have seen the 34" LTB perform well no beadlocks and on an IFS F/R locked Yota

so what 31"s and 33"s are you running... :corn:

Irok radial hands down ran the Pro Comp XT's also; better than most plain MT's but not close to the Irok

BFG Trail TA's... 30x9.50's :awesomework:

:rolleyes:

15psi... :eeek:

:stirpot: this has the potential to be a good thread