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Similar experience. The caddy calipers can be tough to activate. They can also be a bitch of a pain to get set up and adjusted to work, period. Perhaps the newer generation of 3/4 or 1T with factory discs? Likely won't be as cheap, but will be easier to find off-the-shelf parts I imagine...

Funny this popped up... I was just poking around because I found the same kit in ONE SIDE of my D60. I thought the idea looked pretty slick for a street truck...but I could see where strength would be a concern. I planned to double check straightness then toss the suckers for a set of correct...

First step is to rotate your tires and see if it moves/goes away. Could be an issue with the tire, or a bent wheel. Beyond that, these guys have given ya a ton of good advice. It often starts due to something being loose...worn tie rod ends or other steering parts, loose/bad bearings...

I've seen grounds do some strange things...Check for corrosion... Any chance you don't have an adequate ground from the motor to the frame, body to frame, and to the battery?

Run down to the junkyard and get a spare steel wheel for $10-20, and get yourself a 30ish by 8.5-9.5" tire. An inch or two won't make a big difference in terms of driveability...look at most modern cars with "space-saver" spares in the trunk. This will take up less space, and perhaps fit under...

Lots of guys out there running trutracs with tires larger than 32" Plenty of guys in the hotrod world running into the 10 second 1/4mi, too...they are stronger than just about any stock, open carrier from any manufacturer, and are definitely stronger than lunchbox lockers in the vast majority...