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I have the Simpson Vortex. They have a removeable bottom cushion that I pull out if I am washing with a couple of smallish holes to allow drainage. Roughly 25" from the seat cushion to the harness hole centers and 30.5" to the top of the seat.

As mentioned above, a multilevel head shield may help as well. The bottom would absorb most of the heat while the top level would remain cooler. Ideally with insulation of some type between so the heat transfer through the air and hardware is at least not direct.

Also, I am not criticizing anything you are doing, just helping think through the process. I'll say also, that measurements are only as good as the tool and the user. And then back to the measurements trying to simulate situations versus actually measuring during said situations. I'd be more...

You are also stuck with whatever your 4 link gives you as far as how the mounting points and axle move around during travel. You can try to make the best by optimizing sway bar placement and sway bar geometry, but usually the sway bars go on last wherever they will fit. Nothing is one size...

Also, to flex it out correctly to check for binding you really need to leave the links attached so the system is "in situ" and remove the springs so it will move more easily. Then force the axle corners up and down. It isn't going to be a simple task, though, and you can possibly get away with...

A properly designed and executed swaybar system isn't typically designed to take a ton of force. They are just systems that transfer existing forces. They aren't creating anything merely a link in the chain that is subject to whatever force is applied. I think the issue is probably more with...

There are many ways to design a swaybar system and each will be somewhat unique to the application. While this design is viable, it isn't really ideal. Single shear at all points with additional leverage by having the studs, relatively low quality looking heims, thin mounting hardware, etc...

You can try a heat shield with some insulation or reflective backing, but it is generally speaking a bad situation to start from with all of the heat from the engine directly under your cooler. Maximum spacing from the heat source and maximum air flow through the area will be the things to take...

Agreed. I am currently in the best of both worlds IMO. I have an LBZ Duramax that I purchased for a very reasonable price compared to a 2010+ gas burner with 300+ HP. I completely agree about the pricing difference on fuel. If there is a 33% premium on diesel compared to gasoline, you should be...

I have a Walmart one and it has been fine for the past 2 years. I do store it inside and lube with the provided stuff or chapstick as needed. I usually buy Yeti as a higher quality product and to support a local family friend, but I needed one that day and was out of town. You can spend more...

Break in is also another step that I am pretty sure most don't take into account. You need to allow the gears to mesh and wear in with low load and go through a few heat cycles without getting too hot. Just another thing most don't do, like bedding new brake pads or changing break in oil to...

I didn't think of Spicer, but I would say that is an option as well. I would also really focus on using a high quality install kit, whether you buy it all as one or spec your own Timken or greater quality bearings. Also consider the smaller the ring gear tooth count is the better off the...

I haven't done a ton of full size stuff other than what was provided for me to work with. Installed a lot of Yukons in high HP rigs that didn't explode, but we also set them up solely for rock bouncing with super tight backlash that would likely be unreasonable for a daily driver or possibly...

Honestly, I think you would be better off with a good set of gears and solid install from someone that is good or yourself if you are experienced or research how to and have good equipment. A good cryo and micropolish would definitely make the gears stronger and put off less heat, though, if...

I don't know the exact brands/specs, but most batteries are the same. Deka is a very large manufacturer from what I remember. I have an Odyssey PC1200, and it has been awesome. What you can get for the extra cost is the outer metal jacket/shell and the upgraded terminals/lugs. Northstar is...

Yeah, whoever posted in the thread about the loan on it in a vague manner, so I figured they knew something. I offered a trade with cash from his end, but I wasn't planning on making any deal unless he showed me the title and destroyed it on the spot.

In my experience, Simpson has a much cheaper adjuster then higher end PRP harnesses. They are the normal roller/spring type. The PRP I used most recently had the adjuster where you actually lift a "lock/lever" to loosen them, not just rotate the adjuster. The sewn together PRP has the less...

I took a pretty bad spill this year at KoH without ratcheting belts in a hard shell seat with UPR cushion, and I was fine. That being said, I built the car and made sure that the belt mounts and routing were set up for me. I am smaller than most and have had issues in vehicles that I didn't...

If that is the case, you could easily do the same with a couple pieces of 1/8" plate welded at roughly 90* to each other. It shouldn't be much thicker than a washer, so new bolts may not be necessary. One plate bolts down to the chassis. The other has a hole for a sub belt to bolt to. Just...

When you get it, they will come with SFI instruction on how all the belts should be routed or they are probably found online as well. Again most people don't technically get it 100% correct and that depends on your personal preference for safety and how far you are willing to risk it. I'd...