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excellent. Going to the hammers this year?

You could try to disconnect the muffler if it is clamped on and see if the cat is plugged.

Kings. And Jamie all the parts are spoken for. If the guy flakes, you are second in line.

yay grinding boogers free parts anyone?

Hip. We are all talking about running fordyce/ the con this summer. We will have to visit.

In the past I have pushed the piston all the way out to clean up the inside with mixed results. About 70% of the time i was able to get the piston back in. Mostly ford stuff. I've never disassembled GM calipers. I would take it all the way apart and see if there is crud inside. Reassemble...

I've had the EXACT opposite scenario running those on my 8.8 and 60. Crane Diff covers. Threw them away and am using "great stuff" and zero leaks in the rear (ruff stuff cover now), and I still have to keep cinching down the front 60 cover bolts when she starts dripping on me. Maybe its the...

I think it's this one. https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/lincoln-square-wave-tig-200-welder-k5126-1?gclid=CLSK05i94dECFQaVfgodQaYBvg#manuspecs

Some sort of Lincoln masheen. I want to say it is a 120A unit. He is still figuring out how to stack those dimes, but the welds are looking better every day.

Come over to Toms this weekend and fiddle with his new Tig unit. He got it for christmas and has been using it on the bomber. I'm sure he would let you stick a few pieces of metal together to see how you like it.

Kurtis has them on his runner and likes them. I've ridden in it at the hammers and it's freaking sweet. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/103382-kurtis-toyota-4runner-build-thread.html

Titty sprinkles. Glad to see this project gaining traction.

The motors on those can have the connections at the brushes get corroded and need to be cleaned up. Take the motor off and peek inside. Corroded brushes can cause a very high amp draw that doesn't get utilized.

I got all my brake parts from Chad, who got them from S&N fab. :fawkdancesmiley: Seriously though, I got all my nickel and dime fittings from Highway auto supply, and the cutting brakes were available through racereadyproducts.com

Dan at ruff stuff swears by his heims. They are a good product. I only have expierience with the summit machine and ballsack fab joints. If you go with the ballsack fab joints make sure you get the red upgraded races. I have had very good times with them.

I talked to Tom Wood. A CV yoke doesn't exist unless custom made. He's setting me up with everything I need for a front 1350 driveshaft. :awesomework:

I'm having trouble finding part numbers for 1350 CV yokes for my atlas 4 speed. I can find non CV. It has 26 spline outputs. Anyone have the part numbers?

Interested in this. I've got a grand I want to make into a family wheeler. :awesomework:

Welcome, there's lots of fun to be had up here.

I'd wheel it. :awesomework: