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Raybestos GPZ clutches

That is an awesome build. It looks and sounds great. I love the color combo.

Looks like several are having problems with leaking aftermarket JK all aluminum radiators. I am going to try the stock 3.8 radiator with a 16-18 Camaro SS fan and an external oil cooler. I will try the matching Camaro radiator if it tries to get hot. It would require fabbing some mounts but I...

You could do the same thing and use the GM control system similar to the way buggies are built. I cut my own harness down when I built the buggy but they are not expensive to have professionally done. https://www.150tunes.com/ did my ECM programming when the engine was stock and they will cut...

PTC did a great job on building my converter.

Dorman 610-347 is what I found online. I reused the metric studs because they matched my rear 14 bolt. There is plenty of length through my wheels.

My first engine rebuild when I was 17, (40 years ago) was a Chevy 396. I put a high volume / high pressure pump in it and it would drain the stock pan. I have installed stock oil pumps in my engines since then.

I have a Lincoln with a large viewing area and it has been the best helmet that I have ever had. I use a Speedglas at work and prefer the Lincoln over it but only because of the larger viewing area. What ever brand you pick, get the largest viewing area possible IMO.

I prefer the wider symmetric lifts for heavier vehicles. I have a 12k Atlas in my home shop and it is a little more trouble for shorter wheelbase cars since the arms are larger. We have a asymmetric Rotary SPOA10 at work and it is the best designed lift that I have ever used...

It looks and sounds great. It will be worth the wait.

Watch your timing with a scan tool. If the timing is retarding while it has no power you need to replace the knock sensors and sensor harness. Water gets inside and destroys them. That was the problem on my 6.0 anyways. Make a silicone bridge to channel water around the new ones.

Got mine from WOD.

That is what I did. Hose at the flex joints or rod ends both at frame and axle ends of link.

Hard line on the frame and links. Braided anywhere it flexes and at calipers. Adding double flares to tube is a pain so I used a Wide Open Design kit that uses single flares with a backup sleeve.

Wayne Hartwig (150 Tunes) did my original tune by mail on a stock LQ4. They do harness conversions also but I did my own. http://www.150tunes.com/index.html Steve's Performance in Lebanon TN did my dyno tuning on my new engine. They do a lot of LS conversions into just about everything.

I never had any problem at all with the stock LQ4 but the new 402 would get to 230 idling. Fans ran constantly, passenger tank would get cold and the system had no air in it. Thrillbilly on here said a 160 degree thermostat fixed his buggy so I gave it a try. It fixed mine too. Fans cycle and...

I use a very light coat of Ultra Black wiped on both sides of the gasket from the bolt holes to the inside of the pan only. That gives the outside of the gasket surface to grip and not push out. I make sure my steel pans are straight and don't over tighten. Never have any leaks.

One rod was bent and that is all that locked the engine. I think the flywheel tooth would have broken off when I was using a pry bar before the crank moved. I loosened one rod bolt and it unlocked the motor. I think it had the piston cocked and binding in the bore. No bearings spun and I used...

I bent a rod on my LQ4 and it wasn't a rollover. It was hung nose up on a ledge and the engine was started. It knocked loudly and was quickly shut off. It locked the engine up and could not be turned with the spark plugs out. I added catch cans with drains on both the suction and fresh air side...

Just have the ECM tuner turn off the VSS sensor so a code won't be set.