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I'm in the process of switching the buggy over to 5.38s and a 4.3 Atlas as well as a bunch of other much needed tlc. Got tired of breaking 6.17 ring gears (5) and cracking 300 cases (2) and one broken rear output. That was with stock gearing in the 300 so not near the case pressure that a 4:1...

I solved the welded in U-joint deal by machining off the yoke at the end of the donor shaft. Then taking a billet steel 1350 output yoke (U-bolt style) and boring the splines from its ID. Machine to a ~.002 interference fit...heat yoke....drop on shaft....weld on. Now you have 1350 U-bolt...

Thats what I have....works great

killing power to my comp...even though its OBD1.... causes havoc on weekly startup to go wheelin.......I guess its a Ford 5.0 thing.

Oh yeah.....battery cut off as The car was built to compete and that's mandatory for rules compliance......anyhow....batt cut off kills everything except power to the computer. We don't feel the comp would have enough draw to flat line the batt but if the car sits for a couple months,like when I...

Odyssey's can't sit. After killing several PC1200s I finally broke down and bought a fancy charger to tend the batt 24/7......problem solved. In a little buggy like mine where space is at an absolute premium the small size options of the Odyssey batts are great.....but otherwise they are...

Find a buddy with a plasma table and have him make you a set. Allow for an anti coning ring or use a fan belt. Use .375 hardware.......Hammer down and get bitches.:beer:

^^^^^^^ I wonder if that's the place in the same building as Those Guys Rod and Customs?

Congrats.....so sick:cool:

There ya go....nothing good comes from a rear mounted rad.

The new TR building is 1 block west of the Phelps in Mt. Vernon. I'm hoping that being neighbors will influence their interest in fixing cut sidewalls....well..at least MY cut sidewalls:D

I had Phelps tire fix a badly cut Krawler side wall...it was $65 and came out really good. Everyone I have sent in there since has been turned away. I think they did my Krawler because it says "Not for Highway use" right on it...not sure though. I have another cut tire that needs fixed so I hope...

I built the headers on my buggy. I bought complete headers and cut them apart and retubed to my needs. I did my best to keep them "equal length"........I got them pretty close but not perfect. In a perfect world they would be perfectly equal.....In our use I feel it doesn't really matter. The...

Thsoe are sweet wheels:cool:

They were normal valves.....What seemed like "rotational" action was achieved by using a bell crank type linkage.......super simple

Sandblasting "works" but It can leave a pretty rough surface underneath. Not from the actual sandblasting procedure but from working a tough section of powdercoat and the area around that section gets overly abraded...if that makes sense. You could always bring me the rings and we could get...

The only thing that comes to mind is Naval Jelly but that would play hell on the Alu. underneath.....soooooo dunno. Hows your back....riding was fun today

Larry's the expert.....I'm just the guy that gets it all done. Anywho.....Sadly the issue is with the tire itself. The IROC is notorious for having "loose" beads. The Walker has the most aggressive inner bead in the industry. It measures a towering .100 high and has an acute edge that the bead...

fify:D

Lazy much:flipoff: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/NutsandBolts/Nuts&Bolts_signed.pdf