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14 bolt front build thread and tech help
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<blockquote data-quote="redneckengineered" data-source="post: 613246" data-attributes="member: 503"><p>So I believe I've found my unicorn. Sumbitch is massive. I will here on out refer to it as diddy's big block 14 bolt. Anyone that knows me will get that joke. </p><p></p><p>I have to say I haven't had this much fun junkyard diving, researching and gathering tech info since the first buggy I built back in the early 2000s when I didn't know WTF I was doing most of the time. I just got the axle yesterday afternoon so I haven't had a chance to go through everything but here is what I know so far...</p><p></p><p>housing: 2010 Chevy 3500 Van dually to the best of my knowledge</p><p>WMS is like 74", it's wide AF</p><p>5/8" casting all the way around, no flat spot</p><p>4" factory tubes, unsure on thickness but will chop these off soon and report back. They do not neck down at the casting.</p><p>Factory 1480 yoke</p><p></p><p>For those of you wondering why I went to all the trouble to find this axle instead of just retubing a 2nd gen 14 bolt with 3.5 1/2" wall like everyone else, it's for a few reasons. Reid wasn't going to have stock on the 3.5 bore knuckles until late Fall. Not acceptable. I like doing things a little different than others. Depending on configuration, 4" tube is stronger and lighter than 3.5" tube. 4" tube drops panties.</p><p></p><p>Just for fun, I've been playing with some numbers.</p><p>3.5" 1/2" wall tube - 16.06 lbs/ft</p><p>4" .25" wall tube - 10.03 lbs/ft</p><p>4" .375 wall tube - 14.55 lbs/ft</p><p></p><p>Using this calculator you can see that the 4" .25 wall tubing is virtually the same in strength as the 3.5 1/2" wall. If you step up to 3/8" it's ballgame.</p><p><a href="https://www.easycalculation.com/mechanical/deflection-round-tube-beams.php" target="_blank">https://www.easycalculation.com/mechanical/deflection-round-tube-beams.php</a></p><p>The nerds here will appreciate this info, the rest of you I can see are already shaking heads.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, here's the pics.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="redneckengineered, post: 613246, member: 503"] So I believe I've found my unicorn. Sumbitch is massive. I will here on out refer to it as diddy's big block 14 bolt. Anyone that knows me will get that joke. I have to say I haven't had this much fun junkyard diving, researching and gathering tech info since the first buggy I built back in the early 2000s when I didn't know WTF I was doing most of the time. I just got the axle yesterday afternoon so I haven't had a chance to go through everything but here is what I know so far... housing: 2010 Chevy 3500 Van dually to the best of my knowledge WMS is like 74", it's wide AF 5/8" casting all the way around, no flat spot 4" factory tubes, unsure on thickness but will chop these off soon and report back. They do not neck down at the casting. Factory 1480 yoke For those of you wondering why I went to all the trouble to find this axle instead of just retubing a 2nd gen 14 bolt with 3.5 1/2" wall like everyone else, it's for a few reasons. Reid wasn't going to have stock on the 3.5 bore knuckles until late Fall. Not acceptable. I like doing things a little different than others. Depending on configuration, 4" tube is stronger and lighter than 3.5" tube. 4" tube drops panties. Just for fun, I've been playing with some numbers. 3.5" 1/2" wall tube - 16.06 lbs/ft 4" .25" wall tube - 10.03 lbs/ft 4" .375 wall tube - 14.55 lbs/ft Using this calculator you can see that the 4" .25 wall tubing is virtually the same in strength as the 3.5 1/2" wall. If you step up to 3/8" it's ballgame. [url=https://www.easycalculation.com/mechanical/deflection-round-tube-beams.php]https://www.easycalculation.com/mechanical/deflection-round-tube-beams.php[/url] The nerds here will appreciate this info, the rest of you I can see are already shaking heads. Anyway, here's the pics. [/QUOTE]
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