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14 bolt front build thread and tech help
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<blockquote data-quote="redneckengineered" data-source="post: 618320" data-attributes="member: 503"><p>Just got back from a week long work trip in Dallas but had a lot of parts come in while I was gone. I'm just about ready to start making some sparks on this build instead of spending money.</p><p></p><p>Went ahead and order up the BTF lower kingpin kit. I needed the kingpin parts anyway and it is bling and beef, I figured they will be a nice addition to the Reid stuff. I also really liked the counter sunk bolts and zerk fitting for rock protection.</p><p><a href="http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/dana-60-lower-kingpin-kit" target="_blank">http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/dana-60-lower-kingpin-kit</a></p><p></p><p>Been looking into seal solutions. Obviously the Crane revolution seals are an option. I also know some builders will machine the housing to take factory Dana 60 inner seals. This is only good for 35 spline but it got me curious. I got out the seal catalogs and did some digging. I found.</p><p></p><p>SKF 16315</p><p>inside diameter - 1.625"</p><p>outside diameter - 2.623"</p><p>width - .313"</p><p></p><p>Timken/National 450068</p><p>inside diameter - 1.718"</p><p>outside diameter - 2.623"</p><p>width - .5"</p><p></p><p>Now, those dimensions are virtually identical to a stock 60 inner axle seal but with a bigger shaft diameter. Major diameter of 40 spline is ~1.71". Branik told me they use the 450068 with their 40 spline stuff. I read on Pirate that Currie uses the SKF 16315 with their 40 spline stuff. I guess they profile the shafts down hence the smaller shaft diameter but that's just a guess. I wouldn't think it would matter as long as you specify the correct seal surface dimensions to the shaft builder. I'm still looking into it, but if I can get the housing machined to accept one of these seals and RCV is cool doing the right seal surface, that is what I will do.</p><p></p><p>I need hardware to attach the unit bearing to the knuckle. The "correct" kit is Dorman 917-514. That is studs and nuts, but damn they are proud of them. <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRSNSP2/?tag=hardlinecrawlers-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-514-Wheel-Hub-Bolt/dp/B00HRSNSP2</a></p><p>Has anyone used grade 8 bolts or something cheaper? $86 for hardware is idiotic. </p><p></p><p>My tubing arrived. I settled on 4" OD 1/2" wall for a couple reasons. Yea it'll cost me a little in weight but it'll be bomb proof and I only have to retube one side. Service and pricing from discountsteel.com was great.</p><p></p><p>Been looking into steering solutions. Reid says they sent out specs to all the major high steer arm manufacturers but no one has anything available yet. I had Reid send me all the dimensions in PDF form. I got in contact with a guy from Pirate that saw my thread and is a programmer at an aerospace machine shop. It has been awesome working with him and I think we are going to knock out something cool. Goal is to have the arms line up with the factory tie rod location for double sheer strength, similar to the way the Artec arms are made. The models are done, and he's cutting them out of some cheap material for mockup. Once I get them mounted and verify no tweaks need to be made we'll cut them out of the good ****. Here's a teaser. Feel free to add input. They will be springless.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="redneckengineered, post: 618320, member: 503"] Just got back from a week long work trip in Dallas but had a lot of parts come in while I was gone. I'm just about ready to start making some sparks on this build instead of spending money. Went ahead and order up the BTF lower kingpin kit. I needed the kingpin parts anyway and it is bling and beef, I figured they will be a nice addition to the Reid stuff. I also really liked the counter sunk bolts and zerk fitting for rock protection. [url=http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/dana-60-lower-kingpin-kit]http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/dana-60-lower-kingpin-kit[/url] Been looking into seal solutions. Obviously the Crane revolution seals are an option. I also know some builders will machine the housing to take factory Dana 60 inner seals. This is only good for 35 spline but it got me curious. I got out the seal catalogs and did some digging. I found. SKF 16315 inside diameter - 1.625" outside diameter - 2.623" width - .313" Timken/National 450068 inside diameter - 1.718" outside diameter - 2.623" width - .5" Now, those dimensions are virtually identical to a stock 60 inner axle seal but with a bigger shaft diameter. Major diameter of 40 spline is ~1.71". Branik told me they use the 450068 with their 40 spline stuff. I read on Pirate that Currie uses the SKF 16315 with their 40 spline stuff. I guess they profile the shafts down hence the smaller shaft diameter but that's just a guess. I wouldn't think it would matter as long as you specify the correct seal surface dimensions to the shaft builder. I'm still looking into it, but if I can get the housing machined to accept one of these seals and RCV is cool doing the right seal surface, that is what I will do. I need hardware to attach the unit bearing to the knuckle. The "correct" kit is Dorman 917-514. That is studs and nuts, but damn they are proud of them. [URL="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRSNSP2/?tag=hardlinecrawlers-20"]https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-514-Wheel-Hub-Bolt/dp/B00HRSNSP2[/url] Has anyone used grade 8 bolts or something cheaper? $86 for hardware is idiotic. My tubing arrived. I settled on 4" OD 1/2" wall for a couple reasons. Yea it'll cost me a little in weight but it'll be bomb proof and I only have to retube one side. Service and pricing from discountsteel.com was great. Been looking into steering solutions. Reid says they sent out specs to all the major high steer arm manufacturers but no one has anything available yet. I had Reid send me all the dimensions in PDF form. I got in contact with a guy from Pirate that saw my thread and is a programmer at an aerospace machine shop. It has been awesome working with him and I think we are going to knock out something cool. Goal is to have the arms line up with the factory tie rod location for double sheer strength, similar to the way the Artec arms are made. The models are done, and he's cutting them out of some cheap material for mockup. Once I get them mounted and verify no tweaks need to be made we'll cut them out of the good ****. Here's a teaser. Feel free to add input. They will be springless. [/QUOTE]
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