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2000 F250 7.3 super duty starting issues
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<blockquote data-quote="ChopTop84" data-source="post: 1525581" data-attributes="member: 19210"><p>Changing O-rings is not that hard, but it is messy. Each injector is holding back oil, fuel, and coolant, and as soon as you pop the first injector out, you drain all three rails into that hole.</p><p></p><p>Take the rear most injector out first, and suck all the fluids out of just that one hole, and then you can pop the other injectors out with a lot less mess.</p><p></p><p>I also dry fire the motor a couple revolutions just before re-installing the injectors to blow anything out of the cylinder that I missed. Prevents a possibly accidental hydrolock situation.</p><p></p><p>If your taking out your injectors, and they have over 100k miles on them, it wouldnt hurt to send them out for inspection/rebuild. They literally get hammered on by the electromagnets that fire them and they do wear out.</p><p></p><p>Lastly, on a 2000 year motor, you may or may not have a Long Lead (code LL) injector on #8 cylinder. Your going to want that one to go back in the same hole. Otherwise all the rest can mix and match.</p><p></p><p>To really do it right, it also takes an extra day, because your supposed to let the O-rings relax overnight after installing them onto the injector bodies. They dont want you to roll the O-ring on, but stretch it out and drop it into the right spot. Most people however just roll em on, and drop em in, because they are under the gun timewise.</p><p></p><p>Dynomite Diesel in Monroe can probably get you set up. Also, when looking for parts, your motor is built by international, so you dont always have to buy ford parts, you can get T444e parts from the local trucking repair shop too. If they want your serial number, you can find it stamped on the block, near the oil filter, should start out 7.4JU2U and then the serial number. 2000-ish should be in the 130xxxx range give or take.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ChopTop84, post: 1525581, member: 19210"] Changing O-rings is not that hard, but it is messy. Each injector is holding back oil, fuel, and coolant, and as soon as you pop the first injector out, you drain all three rails into that hole. Take the rear most injector out first, and suck all the fluids out of just that one hole, and then you can pop the other injectors out with a lot less mess. I also dry fire the motor a couple revolutions just before re-installing the injectors to blow anything out of the cylinder that I missed. Prevents a possibly accidental hydrolock situation. If your taking out your injectors, and they have over 100k miles on them, it wouldnt hurt to send them out for inspection/rebuild. They literally get hammered on by the electromagnets that fire them and they do wear out. Lastly, on a 2000 year motor, you may or may not have a Long Lead (code LL) injector on #8 cylinder. Your going to want that one to go back in the same hole. Otherwise all the rest can mix and match. To really do it right, it also takes an extra day, because your supposed to let the O-rings relax overnight after installing them onto the injector bodies. They dont want you to roll the O-ring on, but stretch it out and drop it into the right spot. Most people however just roll em on, and drop em in, because they are under the gun timewise. Dynomite Diesel in Monroe can probably get you set up. Also, when looking for parts, your motor is built by international, so you dont always have to buy ford parts, you can get T444e parts from the local trucking repair shop too. If they want your serial number, you can find it stamped on the block, near the oil filter, should start out 7.4JU2U and then the serial number. 2000-ish should be in the 130xxxx range give or take. [/QUOTE]
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2000 F250 7.3 super duty starting issues
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