22r... fuel inject or propane??????????????
- Thread starter yoda1888
- Start date
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
I'm considering the same thing for the next buggy I build.
I have a GotPropane kit, and I have a 87 4runner I could pull the EFI out of.
Here is my list of PROs and CONs of Propane vs EFI:
EFI PROs:
-Can get gas anywhere/anytime (not usually a problem with a Toyota...)
-16 gallon gas tank/fuel cell is about the same size as 1 - 8 gallon propane tank, and it's pretty easy to build/buy a fuel cell to fit anywhere in the buggy
-fuel cell is permanently mounted (you have to mount propane tanks in a manner that you can easily remove/replace them)
-range on gas is better
EFI CONs:
-More wiring, fuel pump, etc... More thing to make the buggy not run, (which has never been a problem so far on any other Toyota I've had)
I'm leaning more toward EFI, but the extreme simplicity of the propane kit has me considering it...
I have a GotPropane kit, and I have a 87 4runner I could pull the EFI out of.
Here is my list of PROs and CONs of Propane vs EFI:
EFI PROs:
-Can get gas anywhere/anytime (not usually a problem with a Toyota...)
-16 gallon gas tank/fuel cell is about the same size as 1 - 8 gallon propane tank, and it's pretty easy to build/buy a fuel cell to fit anywhere in the buggy
-fuel cell is permanently mounted (you have to mount propane tanks in a manner that you can easily remove/replace them)
-range on gas is better
EFI CONs:
-More wiring, fuel pump, etc... More thing to make the buggy not run, (which has never been a problem so far on any other Toyota I've had)
I'm leaning more toward EFI, but the extreme simplicity of the propane kit has me considering it...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
IMHO from messing with both styles of engine...I would run the propane any day over the EFI. Simple wiring and plumbing. Less crap to diagnose if its not running. Only ran a single tank mount but kept another on the trailer on the last rig. Run 2 tank mounts if youre that concerned with fuel capacities. Just seen too many guys I wheel with have stupid sensor/electronic issues that make their weekends a headache or a total waste.
natedawgxj
Crawldad
EFI for sure ive got a 1993 toyoat 4x4 with 345000 miles on it with all original parts in my opinion the only way to go!
Worros
Well-Known Member
Do the research on them both. I was going to swap efi onto mine but then did some math. Cost was about the same to convert my 84' to efi or go pane'. Think about it, you buy a harness/ecm with intake and plenum, MAF and intake tube your gonna spend $300 to get good stuff. Sensors add up, a new MAF if you need to replace it is about $175 from advanced or AZ, gotta have an efi distributor, all the damn little sensors. $20-$30 here and there add up fast.
then pretty soon after wiring everything up, you could be in about $900-1k.
you can get a used pane setup with a tank usually around $400-600 bolt it up, tune it a little and go ride.
then pretty soon after wiring everything up, you could be in about $900-1k.
you can get a used pane setup with a tank usually around $400-600 bolt it up, tune it a little and go ride.
Neal3000
Well-Known Member
naw man F.I. all the way....your gonna limit yourself to around 500 hp if you go with the stinky gas ;D
zukiscott
"MOST WILDEST"
EFI = WWWWWWAY to damn many wires,sensors ,plugs ,relays, electric fuel pump horse**** issues,computer crap, too many wires,,,,,
but come to think of it,,,,,all that crap does sound WWWWAY COOLER than a simple lil propane setup when yer at the gas pumps tryin to explainin yer rig to a couple of dorks :
Some people on this planet ARE NOT HAPPY unless they can find a way to OVERCOMPLICATE THE **** outta everything :
OH,,,,, I say propane over efi FOREVER ;D,,,,,,but if you insist on bein one of the "COOL KIDS" hey its yer time , money and headaches ;D
but come to think of it,,,,,all that crap does sound WWWWAY COOLER than a simple lil propane setup when yer at the gas pumps tryin to explainin yer rig to a couple of dorks :
Some people on this planet ARE NOT HAPPY unless they can find a way to OVERCOMPLICATE THE **** outta everything :
OH,,,,, I say propane over efi FOREVER ;D,,,,,,but if you insist on bein one of the "COOL KIDS" hey its yer time , money and headaches ;D
billstoy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2011
- Messages
- 1,411
I'll kick in my 2 cents! propane it a much cleaner, high octane, {about 110} , super good for higher compression, turbo, higher timing and about 10% hp gain on the same motor when timing turned up to about 30* much better on life of motor, no carbon, no co2 gasses! If you know someone in the propane field you can get it for about 2$ per gal for the equivilant to race fuel for 6$ gal. yes you do have to carry your tank, If you are in a long distance race you would have to carry enough on your buggy or pit. For my toyota I'm running a 110 propane unit on a 22r ,bored, shaved head, 35* timing and a cam. Runs Great!!! everyone loves it It will run about 5 hours of wheeling, or about 1 day of hanging in the woods! only other sugestion is run a good cooling system propane and high timing will run hotter under a load!
I'm not a pro. this is my first propane system! I have owned 30 trucks with 22r/re and my buggy runs better then all the trucks!
Don't buy a high dollar kit go on ebay buy a 110 unit and a cobra reg/heater, used alum.tank, some straps, have your local hose shop make your lines to size, all for about 300$. plumb the heater/reg just like the heater is! you dont need a 12V cut off unless it's required, you just close the tank valve, no wires!
To TBI if you have the stuff, try it ,run a RE intake mount the unit on a adapter where the throttle plate goes run about a 200 unit, leave the injectors and fuel rail on it , if you dont like it you could change it in about a day! Bill
I'm not a pro. this is my first propane system! I have owned 30 trucks with 22r/re and my buggy runs better then all the trucks!
Don't buy a high dollar kit go on ebay buy a 110 unit and a cobra reg/heater, used alum.tank, some straps, have your local hose shop make your lines to size, all for about 300$. plumb the heater/reg just like the heater is! you dont need a 12V cut off unless it's required, you just close the tank valve, no wires!
To TBI if you have the stuff, try it ,run a RE intake mount the unit on a adapter where the throttle plate goes run about a 200 unit, leave the injectors and fuel rail on it , if you dont like it you could change it in about a day! Bill
TBItoy
Well-Known Member
The stock EFI doesnt really have that many actual sensors, mainly the Air Flow Meter that is the the top of the airbox, of course you can remount it and put a cone filter on it if you want
Then you've got a knock sensor, temp sensor, throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, plus the computer controlled ignition/distributor, injectors, and the EFI fuel pump. The toyota efi system is really simple when you strip it down, and usually very easy to diagnose if there is a problem (which is not common)...
you could build a MegaSquirt ecm system to run the stock efi and pretty much eliminate as much as you wanted, but there is a point at which you run into diminishing returns from less inputs vs. drivablity
The neat thing about propane is you can literally have zero wiring:
use an chevy ignitor/coil, vacuum advance 22r dizzy,
ALL the wiring you need is:
- alt charge wire to battery (or starter terminal if you got the battery in the back)
- + starter wire to battery (and of course a ground to the block)
- 1 12v on/off switch for the ignition power & alt excite
- push button for starter solenoid
Then of course you can add wiring for lights, brake lights, blinkers, horn, or whatever else you want in a buggy
Then you've got a knock sensor, temp sensor, throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, plus the computer controlled ignition/distributor, injectors, and the EFI fuel pump. The toyota efi system is really simple when you strip it down, and usually very easy to diagnose if there is a problem (which is not common)...
you could build a MegaSquirt ecm system to run the stock efi and pretty much eliminate as much as you wanted, but there is a point at which you run into diminishing returns from less inputs vs. drivablity
The neat thing about propane is you can literally have zero wiring:
use an chevy ignitor/coil, vacuum advance 22r dizzy,
ALL the wiring you need is:
- alt charge wire to battery (or starter terminal if you got the battery in the back)
- + starter wire to battery (and of course a ground to the block)
- 1 12v on/off switch for the ignition power & alt excite
- push button for starter solenoid
Then of course you can add wiring for lights, brake lights, blinkers, horn, or whatever else you want in a buggy
billstoy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2011
- Messages
- 1,411
thats what I got! I run a stock coil and igniter with one hot wire and a ground and use the stock tach wire . for a tach! and 1 wire gm alt to the battery switch, ignition switch and a starter button , battery switch to 12v propane valve for emergency cut off! kill the battery switch kill everything!
altfuel1991
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2010
- Messages
- 271
" Don't buy a high dollar kit go on ebay buy a 110 unit and a cobra reg/heater, used alum.tank, some straps, have your local hose shop make your lines to size, all for about 300$. plumb the heater/reg just like the heater is! you dont need a 12V cut off unless it's required, you just close the tank valve, no wires!"
There are a couple of things I would advise caution with on this earlier post. I am in the propane conversion business(21 years) and it would be wise to use a lockoff valve as a positive shutoff for your fuel supply. The kits we put together normally have a vacuum lockoff valve so there are no wires, only a single vacuum hose to run to it. The vacuum lockoff also has a filter built in, which is good since all fuels whether gas, propane or diesel have contaminants in them that will clog up the fuel system.
The other item is having a hydraulic shop make your hoses. Unless the hose being used has "LPG Use" on the outside cover it is not rated for propane and has the wrong inner lining. We have seen the lining crack internally and cause the hose to close off. This can deal you fits trying to diagnose a problem.
There are a couple of things I would advise caution with on this earlier post. I am in the propane conversion business(21 years) and it would be wise to use a lockoff valve as a positive shutoff for your fuel supply. The kits we put together normally have a vacuum lockoff valve so there are no wires, only a single vacuum hose to run to it. The vacuum lockoff also has a filter built in, which is good since all fuels whether gas, propane or diesel have contaminants in them that will clog up the fuel system.
The other item is having a hydraulic shop make your hoses. Unless the hose being used has "LPG Use" on the outside cover it is not rated for propane and has the wrong inner lining. We have seen the lining crack internally and cause the hose to close off. This can deal you fits trying to diagnose a problem.
Worros
Well-Known Member
So where is the best place to get an adapter to go from a 200 impco to the toyota baseplate? I see alot of people on pirate say nash fuel sells them but I cant find it.
