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85 superbobbed 4runner(aka BURNING BENJAMINS)
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<blockquote data-quote="Chris S" data-source="post: 494703" data-attributes="member: 5757"><p>After finding and mating all my wires up (temporary twisted together and taped) I attempted to start the engine on my target dat of july1. Turned over but would not fire. Checked the obvious and found that I had fuel but no fire so off to the forums I went reading and studying wiring diagrams! Put several hours into this's on July 2 and figured out late that night that I had not ever done anything for ing2 keyed power. Found it on the 85 ewd on the drivers side engine bay in the original body harness,tapped into it there,ran the wire around the core support with the battery to fuse box lead and starter trigger wire I already had in place ,ran through the firewall with trigger wire and made it up at ecu( which I had the wire there labeled already and waiting for this <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies2/dunno.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":dunno:" title="Dunno :dunno:" data-shortname=":dunno:" />) </p><p>Turned the key and bam my little dirt track sounding engine (uncapped exhaust)fired right up <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies2/w00t-1.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":woot:" title="W00t 1 :woot:" data-shortname=":woot:" /> at this point I spent hours undoing tape, soldering and shrink wrapping one connection at a time! As mentioned before I wanted to have the obdll port for future diagnostic so I made it up at the ecu with an inline fuse to properly protect the ecu from defective scan tools( I guess this is why there fused from the factory) and decided I would just locate it behind the glove box since you don't need tools to get to it and it's out of the way of mud or debris! Also I had to figure out how to retain the ecu since the 3.4 brackets are completely different from the 22re brackets. After pondering on this I acheived this by bolting one of the 3.4 brackets on ,marking it to the length to be cut then cutting the mounting side of the 22re's bracket off and welding them together. This is the only bolt holding it in but as you can see in this pic ,it's tight up against the sheet metal stud in the floor that holds the back side of the plastic kick panel in place. This is because of the influx of wire behind it from all the extra wires it takes to complete the wiring. Anyways the kick panel will slide on to clear it making it a tight fit but helping secure it all the same! In the pic of the obdll plug you can see the kick panel is installed and that it does actually fit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chris S, post: 494703, member: 5757"] After finding and mating all my wires up (temporary twisted together and taped) I attempted to start the engine on my target dat of july1. Turned over but would not fire. Checked the obvious and found that I had fuel but no fire so off to the forums I went reading and studying wiring diagrams! Put several hours into this's on July 2 and figured out late that night that I had not ever done anything for ing2 keyed power. Found it on the 85 ewd on the drivers side engine bay in the original body harness,tapped into it there,ran the wire around the core support with the battery to fuse box lead and starter trigger wire I already had in place ,ran through the firewall with trigger wire and made it up at ecu( which I had the wire there labeled already and waiting for this :dunno:) Turned the key and bam my little dirt track sounding engine (uncapped exhaust)fired right up :woot: at this point I spent hours undoing tape, soldering and shrink wrapping one connection at a time! As mentioned before I wanted to have the obdll port for future diagnostic so I made it up at the ecu with an inline fuse to properly protect the ecu from defective scan tools( I guess this is why there fused from the factory) and decided I would just locate it behind the glove box since you don't need tools to get to it and it's out of the way of mud or debris! Also I had to figure out how to retain the ecu since the 3.4 brackets are completely different from the 22re brackets. After pondering on this I acheived this by bolting one of the 3.4 brackets on ,marking it to the length to be cut then cutting the mounting side of the 22re's bracket off and welding them together. This is the only bolt holding it in but as you can see in this pic ,it's tight up against the sheet metal stud in the floor that holds the back side of the plastic kick panel in place. This is because of the influx of wire behind it from all the extra wires it takes to complete the wiring. Anyways the kick panel will slide on to clear it making it a tight fit but helping secure it all the same! In the pic of the obdll plug you can see the kick panel is installed and that it does actually fit. [/QUOTE]
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85 superbobbed 4runner(aka BURNING BENJAMINS)
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