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85 superbobbed 4runner(aka BURNING BENJAMINS)
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<blockquote data-quote="Chris S" data-source="post: 496031" data-attributes="member: 5757"><p>I got all this work completed somewhere around September'ish of last year which put me in the heart of football season along with some riding on Saturdays. Then followed deer season so very little of my spare time was spent on this truck. My next item to work on when the time presented itself would be the 3 and 4 link setups! I read myself crazy on this at nights last fall only to feel dumber and more confused than I was before reading all the opinions posted on this topic! I finally come to the conclusion after reading the link for dummies or 101 or whatever the thread was labeled on here that on a full bodied rig geometry might just have to take a backseat so to speak to packaging. I decided I would just take the approach of keeping the links as level as possible with the uppers being 70% the length as the lowers and building in upper adjustments as I read.</p><p></p><p>Anyway I had signed up on Barnes4wd web site for email alerts on bargens and what not back in the fall when trying to decide on who's kit I would use. Sometime in December I received one advertising 20% off so I ordered there 7/8" 3 link kit,7/8" 4 link kit,14 bolt shave diff cover,Dana 60 cover,high steer arms and ARP studs for the high steer arms. I hated to spend the money durning the holidays but 20% savings allowed me to clear the high steer arms and the ARP studs so it was justified in my mind. I also bought local a stick of 2" x.250 wall and a stick of 1 3/4"X 1 1/8" wall Dom for my links. </p><p></p><p>Another problem I had was I didn't have any rollers to put my one tons on which got remedied sometime in January when I found a deal on here for some 39.5x16" worn irocks on 8 lug beadlocks. I drove on a blistering cold day down to Florance AL. Where Clay Wills on here hooked me up with the rollers.Not having any excuses left (since I had my parts and tires) I jumped in with both feet and got started.</p><p></p><p>I was planning on moving the front forward 5" to begin with but after setting the axle under the truck with these worn out 40's on it I ended up going close to 7" forward with it. I tried to factor in for the larger tires I would potentially be running by adding 2" to what I was seeing in both firewall clearance and up travel at the wheel wells. I set the lower frame hight at 25" (which puts the transfer skid at 20") by using the same theory of adding 2" to what I was seeing trying to end up with 5" of uptravel on the front. Obviously theses measurements(frame hight) will increase by up to 2" depending on what size tires I end up running.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chris S, post: 496031, member: 5757"] I got all this work completed somewhere around September'ish of last year which put me in the heart of football season along with some riding on Saturdays. Then followed deer season so very little of my spare time was spent on this truck. My next item to work on when the time presented itself would be the 3 and 4 link setups! I read myself crazy on this at nights last fall only to feel dumber and more confused than I was before reading all the opinions posted on this topic! I finally come to the conclusion after reading the link for dummies or 101 or whatever the thread was labeled on here that on a full bodied rig geometry might just have to take a backseat so to speak to packaging. I decided I would just take the approach of keeping the links as level as possible with the uppers being 70% the length as the lowers and building in upper adjustments as I read. Anyway I had signed up on Barnes4wd web site for email alerts on bargens and what not back in the fall when trying to decide on who's kit I would use. Sometime in December I received one advertising 20% off so I ordered there 7/8" 3 link kit,7/8" 4 link kit,14 bolt shave diff cover,Dana 60 cover,high steer arms and ARP studs for the high steer arms. I hated to spend the money durning the holidays but 20% savings allowed me to clear the high steer arms and the ARP studs so it was justified in my mind. I also bought local a stick of 2" x.250 wall and a stick of 1 3/4"X 1 1/8" wall Dom for my links. Another problem I had was I didn't have any rollers to put my one tons on which got remedied sometime in January when I found a deal on here for some 39.5x16" worn irocks on 8 lug beadlocks. I drove on a blistering cold day down to Florance AL. Where Clay Wills on here hooked me up with the rollers.Not having any excuses left (since I had my parts and tires) I jumped in with both feet and got started. I was planning on moving the front forward 5" to begin with but after setting the axle under the truck with these worn out 40's on it I ended up going close to 7" forward with it. I tried to factor in for the larger tires I would potentially be running by adding 2" to what I was seeing in both firewall clearance and up travel at the wheel wells. I set the lower frame hight at 25" (which puts the transfer skid at 20") by using the same theory of adding 2" to what I was seeing trying to end up with 5" of uptravel on the front. Obviously theses measurements(frame hight) will increase by up to 2" depending on what size tires I end up running. [/QUOTE]
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