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Bell crank steering
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<blockquote data-quote="AEH" data-source="post: 753676" data-attributes="member: 8258"><p>Thanks all, It was a labor of love and hate. Life is hard and it's even harder when your stupid,lol. Everything I did made life harder on the next step. Mount the steering box where you think it needs to be and then the pitman arm hits the master cylinders. Buy the smallest master you can find and then all the good reservoirs stick up too high for the hood panels. Have custom stainless reservoirs made, problem solved! </p><p></p><p>In Arkansas they don't care about steering, fenders, beadlocks, bumpers etc. So you can tag almost anything. Just so it has the appropriate lights and a horn.</p><p>The steering that jr4x worked out is very good , way better than mine but they aren't mutually exclusive. His gutted box and servo is just way better in race situations. I think there's is on a 3 link but the same tech will work on a 4 link as well. I Know a guy that was eating a box every race and went with that setup on a 4 link/bell crank rig and it solved his problems. Raced the whole season last year on the same box. I'm not gonna be hitting rig flipping boulders at speed repeatably so I don't anticipate the same problems. </p><p></p><p>My front was a HP driver drop from a 78 F250. I still have plans to build a 609 front but it was just too much to get my head around with trying to figure out all the steering issues. I found a deal on that 44 and a 35 spline 9" that I couldn't pass up. All new Hub to hub and I paid less for the pair than I could have built the rear for. So I just re-tubed the front and swapped sides. That sounds good but it moves the pinion over closer to the center and really complicated the drive line. I talked branick into making another run of his carrier bearings to solve that problem. [ATTACH=full]120947[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]120948[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AEH, post: 753676, member: 8258"] Thanks all, It was a labor of love and hate. Life is hard and it’s even harder when your stupid,lol. Everything I did made life harder on the next step. Mount the steering box where you think it needs to be and then the pitman arm hits the master cylinders. Buy the smallest master you can find and then all the good reservoirs stick up too high for the hood panels. Have custom stainless reservoirs made, problem solved! In Arkansas they don’t care about steering, fenders, beadlocks, bumpers etc. So you can tag almost anything. Just so it has the appropriate lights and a horn. The steering that jr4x worked out is very good , way better than mine but they aren’t mutually exclusive. His gutted box and servo is just way better in race situations. I think there’s is on a 3 link but the same tech will work on a 4 link as well. I Know a guy that was eating a box every race and went with that setup on a 4 link/bell crank rig and it solved his problems. Raced the whole season last year on the same box. I’m not gonna be hitting rig flipping boulders at speed repeatably so I don’t anticipate the same problems. My front was a HP driver drop from a 78 F250. I still have plans to build a 609 front but it was just too much to get my head around with trying to figure out all the steering issues. I found a deal on that 44 and a 35 spline 9” that I couldn’t pass up. All new Hub to hub and I paid less for the pair than I could have built the rear for. So I just re-tubed the front and swapped sides. That sounds good but it moves the pinion over closer to the center and really complicated the drive line. I talked branick into making another run of his carrier bearings to solve that problem. [ATTACH type="full"]120947[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full"]120948[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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