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Buggy rebuild
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<blockquote data-quote="bbounds" data-source="post: 257109" data-attributes="member: 2702"><p>I took the buggy to my buddies shop Southern Custom in Alachua, Fl. We started with tearing out the interior. The shifter was attached to the sheet metal only and there was no bracing for the sheet metal to attach to, so it was flopping around and made all kinds of noise. The wires that where going to the battery where just punched thru the sheet metal with know wire lume or anything to prevent them from being frayed. So we decided to just tear out the existng metal and start over since there wasn't very much to start with any way. We then decided to jack the buggy up to make sure we didn't have any clearence issures. Turns out when the front shocks are fully extended the yoke's completly bind on each other and the drive shaft hits the chassis (NOT GOOD). We also notice that there is about 1/8 of an inch between the yoke on the front t-case and transmission so you can only fit a 1310 yoke on the t-case itself. The t-case was leaking so we decided to pull the case seal it up and reclock it which will give us plenty of room for the yoke and t-case and also put the other yokes at a better angle. we also shimmed the carrier bearing to give us more more room from the chassis. The problem we ran into was with the t-case clocked it now hits the chassis. After scrathcing are heads for a while we notice that the whole motor is is crooked in the buggy, so to make that work we will now be changing the motor mount brackets to straighten the motor up and give everything the clearence it needs to work properly. With that figured out we decided install the new air shocks in the rear. The shocks are 16" king air shocks with a 5/8 heim on the bottom so we are going to have to change the bottom mounts. My buddy really didn't like the angle of the shocks to begin with and that they where mounted right on the chassis with no crush points built in. We also noticed that they where a full inch difference where they where mounted on the chassis so might as well add some tube and relocate how they hook up at a better angle. This is where we are at now. We will also be adding some bracing to the link mounts and thru out the chassis to strengthen it up a bit, re-working some tube up front to make the CJ hood and grill work, installing Reid knuckles with high steer arms, installing a new belly pan and pan around the oil pan because the one on it now is a joke. I was planning on bringing it to RBD but with all the extra stuff we found it will probably won't happen. I will be updating with pics and findings as I get to those points.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bbounds, post: 257109, member: 2702"] I took the buggy to my buddies shop Southern Custom in Alachua, Fl. We started with tearing out the interior. The shifter was attached to the sheet metal only and there was no bracing for the sheet metal to attach to, so it was flopping around and made all kinds of noise. The wires that where going to the battery where just punched thru the sheet metal with know wire lume or anything to prevent them from being frayed. So we decided to just tear out the existng metal and start over since there wasn't very much to start with any way. We then decided to jack the buggy up to make sure we didn't have any clearence issures. Turns out when the front shocks are fully extended the yoke's completly bind on each other and the drive shaft hits the chassis (NOT GOOD). We also notice that there is about 1/8 of an inch between the yoke on the front t-case and transmission so you can only fit a 1310 yoke on the t-case itself. The t-case was leaking so we decided to pull the case seal it up and reclock it which will give us plenty of room for the yoke and t-case and also put the other yokes at a better angle. we also shimmed the carrier bearing to give us more more room from the chassis. The problem we ran into was with the t-case clocked it now hits the chassis. After scrathcing are heads for a while we notice that the whole motor is is crooked in the buggy, so to make that work we will now be changing the motor mount brackets to straighten the motor up and give everything the clearence it needs to work properly. With that figured out we decided install the new air shocks in the rear. The shocks are 16" king air shocks with a 5/8 heim on the bottom so we are going to have to change the bottom mounts. My buddy really didn't like the angle of the shocks to begin with and that they where mounted right on the chassis with no crush points built in. We also noticed that they where a full inch difference where they where mounted on the chassis so might as well add some tube and relocate how they hook up at a better angle. This is where we are at now. We will also be adding some bracing to the link mounts and thru out the chassis to strengthen it up a bit, re-working some tube up front to make the CJ hood and grill work, installing Reid knuckles with high steer arms, installing a new belly pan and pan around the oil pan because the one on it now is a joke. I was planning on bringing it to RBD but with all the extra stuff we found it will probably won't happen. I will be updating with pics and findings as I get to those points. [/QUOTE]
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