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<blockquote data-quote="LightBnDr" data-source="post: 724087" data-attributes="member: 9031"><p>Lol holy cow man this so ironic </p><p></p><p>I just finished my insulation stage, sheet rock showed up 7am yesterday and these guys are moving 100mph. </p><p></p><p>In terms of spray foam insulation Matt, you need to do your homework DILIGENTLY. As well as have an HVAC guy who is experienced with spray foam new construction installs. </p><p></p><p>Technically you need a mechanical engineer to design a truly great system for you home. 3rd party. Not the same guy that will do your install </p><p></p><p>Spray foam is an awesome product but I truly believe that the industry has not caught up with all of the effects of foam. </p><p></p><p>Insulation guys want to spray because it's fast and easy and good money. The HVAC guys are struggling to design systems to properly work with foam. </p><p></p><p>Open cell foam is a sponge and will drive moisture to a condensing surface. So you absolutely cannot use radiant barrier roof decking under spray foam. Moisture will gather at the barrier and create huge mold and mildew problems. </p><p></p><p> The same thing happens with bare OSB decking as well only it will begin to rot the decomposed wood.</p><p></p><p>Your HVAC guy will need to also install dehumidifiers both in your attic space and in your conditioned space. This is the only way to control that humidity. </p><p></p><p>If not the same effect occurs. Typically the system installed is too large for the square footage and the efficiency level of foam. </p><p>Just like others have said, your system will need to run longer but lower to maintain that conditioned climate.</p><p></p><p>You have to have a standard at least of an 8" fresh air intake for your system as well. Penetrates through a gable or soffit. </p><p></p><p>The amazing part to me is how fast the industry is pushing foam. The studies of harmful effects are nowhere yet. </p><p></p><p>You also DONOT want to add duct work in your attic that is shared by your conditioned living space. The chemicals from foam will off gas for who nows how long and it will mix with your breathable air. </p><p></p><p>Said above, if you are going to heat and cool your attic it needs to be a completely dedicated system to that space. </p><p></p><p>Anyway Matt, be very careful. Do your homework. There's a very serious reason the Midwest and east coast climates DONOT use spray foam. </p><p></p><p>I built 2x6" exterior walls 24" on center, California 3 stud corners, California T's. I sprayed open cell in my walls and roof lines. Full depth in all areas. </p><p></p><p>I run a 3 ton 2 stage system. Puts me at 845sq ft per ton. I run 2 dehumidifiers. 1 in my attic space as well as 1 in my living space. </p><p></p><p>It's a scary decision Matt. Long term for your family, choose wisely.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="LightBnDr, post: 724087, member: 9031"] Lol holy cow man this so ironic I just finished my insulation stage, sheet rock showed up 7am yesterday and these guys are moving 100mph. In terms of spray foam insulation Matt, you need to do your homework DILIGENTLY. As well as have an HVAC guy who is experienced with spray foam new construction installs. Technically you need a mechanical engineer to design a truly great system for you home. 3rd party. Not the same guy that will do your install Spray foam is an awesome product but I truly believe that the industry has not caught up with all of the effects of foam. Insulation guys want to spray because it's fast and easy and good money. The HVAC guys are struggling to design systems to properly work with foam. Open cell foam is a sponge and will drive moisture to a condensing surface. So you absolutely cannot use radiant barrier roof decking under spray foam. Moisture will gather at the barrier and create huge mold and mildew problems. The same thing happens with bare OSB decking as well only it will begin to rot the decomposed wood. Your HVAC guy will need to also install dehumidifiers both in your attic space and in your conditioned space. This is the only way to control that humidity. If not the same effect occurs. Typically the system installed is too large for the square footage and the efficiency level of foam. Just like others have said, your system will need to run longer but lower to maintain that conditioned climate. You have to have a standard at least of an 8" fresh air intake for your system as well. Penetrates through a gable or soffit. The amazing part to me is how fast the industry is pushing foam. The studies of harmful effects are nowhere yet. You also DONOT want to add duct work in your attic that is shared by your conditioned living space. The chemicals from foam will off gas for who nows how long and it will mix with your breathable air. Said above, if you are going to heat and cool your attic it needs to be a completely dedicated system to that space. Anyway Matt, be very careful. Do your homework. There's a very serious reason the Midwest and east coast climates DONOT use spray foam. I built 2x6" exterior walls 24" on center, California 3 stud corners, California T's. I sprayed open cell in my walls and roof lines. Full depth in all areas. I run a 3 ton 2 stage system. Puts me at 845sq ft per ton. I run 2 dehumidifiers. 1 in my attic space as well as 1 in my living space. It's a scary decision Matt. Long term for your family, choose wisely. [/QUOTE]
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