Built D300 vs Atlas

[mark]

I dont have any experiance with a Klune. Have you purchased the Klune yet? Do you own a D300? Most of the time parts we buy are not worth what we paid for them even tho they are still new so be ware of what you buy before you know for sure the rout you want to go.

I could see where it would be nice to have something in between my 4.3:1 low and 1:1 High. With 4.88 gears and a V6 the 1:1 was a little tall. Im not sure how much room the Klune will take up in our small-ish chassis.

I am going thru my rig right now stream lining it for a more point and shoot approach. Burly and simple. The less **** I got on the car the less **** breaks.

What about the 4 speed Atlas? I know its a few $$ but is it worth it? Its burly for sure. :beer:

4-speed atlas would be tits, and I would hop on one and sell the rest of my **** if the right deal popped up. Shaves a couple inches off the over-all length.

NW Fab's Blackboxi is the same idea, if I didn't already have my Klune I'd be looking hard at one of those, only 4" vs 6" or so for a Klune. Packaging wise is should fit... I hope. I was originally planning and had a NP231 crawl box, but is was too big. The Klune is effectively the same thing, just in a more streamlined and compact case.

I have the Klune, I have the 350, I have the TH350, I have all my adapters. I've had a couple D300's, my current D300 is an incomplete one I picked up for almost nothing which didn't bother me as I planned on upgrading just about everything in it... I've got the time.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I like goog ol horspower proof heavy **** myself.

I did not want one low range to be stuck in. I wanted 2 to 1 and 4 to one options.

I built a th400/203/205 for my buggy. All GM and good for 800HP.

Aluminum is for bear cans.

 

[mark]

I like goog ol horspower proof heavy **** myself.

I did not want one low range to be stuck in. I wanted 2 to 1 and 4 to one options.

I built a th400/203/205 for my buggy. All GM and good for 800HP.

Aluminum is for bear cans.

If i wanted cheap and bullet proof, I'd agree with you. That is definitely a proven combo. But it also doesn't fit in a Bravo chassis, nor give you the same gearing option, not to mention it is heavy as all hell....


hey wait, the case on that TH400 is aluminum.... better swap it out for an old Borg-Warner or something :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[benw1]

Aluminum is for bear cans.

How do you get a bear in a can?

 

[CHOP SHOP]

If i wanted cheap and bullet proof, I'd agree with you. That is definitely a proven combo. But it also doesn't fit in a Bravo chassis, nor give you the same gearing option, not to mention it is heavy as all hell....


hey wait, the case on that TH400 is aluminum.... better swap it out for an old Borg-Warner or something :fawkdancesmiley:

Aluminum holds planetaries inside great and bellhousings hold up great with proper mounts.

Gears pushing apart from each other, thats another story.

But yes none is applicable for your rig.


I figure the extra weight is the the middle of the beast down low.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

How do you get a bear in the can?

Not all of them **** in the woods.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Aluminum holds planetaries inside great and bellhousings hold up great with proper mounts.

Gears pushing apart from each other, thats another story.

But yes none is applicable for your rig.

231's have planetary reduction so they are fine. But if gear driven aluminum cases are bad why do you still run yota cases? :flipoff:

 

[Maverick26]

:corn:

Hey now... I dont think Mark cares about the mollecular differences between the D300 and Atlas cases. Both are proven units in there proper aplications.

Brad, quite while your ahead... go stuff your bear back in a can.

 

[chevota1]

I have ran a ultiimate 300 in a V-8 buggy that has since Been sold but still going strong, as well as a stock 300 in my current buggy and have never had a problem. If you can build the T-case yourself you will be 800- 1000 cheaper than a new Atlas. Now the Atlas is the stronger of the 2, but in most applications the 300 is pretty adequite. Bottom line if you have the cash Buck up for the Atlas, if not slowly build the 300.

i just added everything up at jb conversions even if you do all the install yourself
your at like $1700 to upgrade front and rear out puts a 4/1 gear set
rebuild kit twin sticks etc
not including the machine work on the front of the case for the hd front out put or the cost of the case itself

i just ordered my atlas to replace my dana 300 with all of this for $2100 on sale at advance adapters

i see the main advantage in the shift on the fly and under stress ability
plus increase in gear and case strength

a 300 is a good get you by tcase that you can upgrade as you go
but if you want to do everything out of the gate just go with an atlas
or you can end up in same boat as me down the road selling a $2000 dana 300 much less than you have invested or just buy one already built and depreciated at some one else expense

 

[PORTER]

i just added everything up at jb conversions even if you do all the install yourself
your at like $1700 to upgrade front and rear out puts a 4/1 gear set
rebuild kit twin sticks etc
not including the machine work on the front of the case for the hd front out put or the cost of the case itself

i just ordered my atlas to replace my dana 300 with all of this for $2100 on sale at advance adapters

i see the main advantage in the shift on the fly and under stress ability
plus increase in gear and case strength

a 300 is a good get you by tcase that you can upgrade as you go
but if you want to do everything out of the gate just go with an atlas
or you can end up in same boat as me down the road selling a $2000 dana 300 much less than you have invested or just buy one already built and depreciated at some one else expense

I left out the input upgrade as personally I have not seen a failure, not to say they don't. Usually its always the rear that goes. Don't forget to add in the tax and shipping on the Atlas also and the number I threw out is pretty on. Again, I am not saying the Atlas isn't the stronger option. I planned on getting an Atlas after my buggy was built but have not busted my 300, so it will stay until then.

 

[PORTER]

That depends on what you plan to do with it. I would not give up my 2:1 ratio for anything!

To each their own Rick, but for me I like simplicity. If the rig is geared properly for wheeling a crawl box is not needed IMO. Take my rig for example, my first gear is plenty low for crawling and my 2nd gear is my wheelspeed gear for verticle launches, while 3rd is for faster paced wheeling and running the backroads to the trailer. Alot of the time I start out in second, as 1st is too slow. Add in the fact that I don't care for extra shifters in the cab, and like the idea of having equal length driveshafts so I can carry 1 spare. So 0-45 MPH I am pretty set, which is wheeling speed. Again Rick, I am not saying your setup is not a good setup, just for Northwest wheeling you don't need all the gearing options you have that's why I said what I said. Now, if you lack HP(4 cylinder) a crawl box is a great way to go, but with a lightweight buggy and a V6-V8 different story. Again not trying to dicker as I have alot of respect for your wheeling knowledge, just explaining why I made my comment on the Klune.

 

[Not Jobless]

I really think I see a trend here
A D 300 will servive if your rig don't weigh a ton or you have passive driving habits, or little tires

So in other words, if you wheel a Yota and drive like a ***** the dana 300 will love you long time :haha:

 

[Binder]

To each their own Rick, but for me I like simplicity. If the rig is geared properly for wheeling a crawl box is not needed IMO. Take my rig for example, my first gear is plenty low for crawling and my 2nd gear is my wheelspeed gear for verticle launches, while 3rd is for faster paced wheeling and running the backroads to the trailer. Alot of the time I start out in second, as 1st is too slow. Add in the fact that I don't care for extra shifters in the cab, and like the idea of having equal length driveshafts so I can carry 1 spare. So 0-45 MPH I am pretty set, which is wheeling speed. Again Rick, I am not saying your setup is not a good setup, just for Northwest wheeling you don't need all the gearing options you have that's why I said what I said. Now, if you lack HP(4 cylinder) a crawl box is a great way to go, but with a lightweight buggy and a V6-V8 different story. Again not trying to dicker as I have alot of respect for your wheeling knowledge, just explaining why I made my comment on the Klune.

That's all good Mike.:awesomework: The point behind my post was that Mark races occasionally and a "stock" low range lends itself well to racing short stuff. Honestly I find myself using 2:1 often for trail wheeling too.

 

[mark]

That's all good Mike.:awesomework: The point behind my post was that Mark races occasionally and a "stock" low range lends itself well to racing short stuff. Honestly I find myself using 2:1 often for trail wheeling too.

Oh, you KNOW I'll flog the buggy one the race track...... if I ever get it built


Till then however, the Scout will get a serious flogging this year (I hope), as long as time and money allow.

:awesomework:

 

[KarlVP]

To each their own Rick, but for me I like simplicity. If the rig is geared properly for wheeling a crawl box is not needed IMO. Take my rig for example, my first gear is plenty low for crawling and my 2nd gear is my wheelspeed gear for verticle launches, while 3rd is for faster paced wheeling and running the backroads to the trailer. Alot of the time I start out in second, as 1st is too slow. Add in the fact that I don't care for extra shifters in the cab, and like the idea of having equal length driveshafts so I can carry 1 spare. So 0-45 MPH I am pretty set, which is wheeling speed. Again Rick, I am not saying your setup is not a good setup, just for Northwest wheeling you don't need all the gearing options you have that's why I said what I said. Now, if you lack HP(4 cylinder) a crawl box is a great way to go, but with a lightweight buggy and a V6-V8 different story. Again not trying to dicker as I have alot of respect for your wheeling knowledge, just explaining why I made my comment on the Klune.

My Atlas 4 speed works phenomenally. The 10.27:1 Ratio is fantastic for crawling with my little 80HP 4cylinder and the 2.7:1 ratio whoops ass for the wheel speed stuff. The engine itself doesn't make enough power to use the 1:1 ratio.

I got the Atlas to save on length and for strength. It was shorter and stronger than most of the options I could have gone for. It was also much easier than building a case out of junkyard stuff and trying to find an input for a 4Cylinder/AX-5 transmission.

Save your pennies. :flipoff: