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Tech & Fab
Dana 44 outer interchangeability.
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<blockquote data-quote="Horus" data-source="post: 1511312" data-attributes="member: 17219"><p>The spindle holes in the Ford knuckles are large enough that the CV bell and boot will pass through them. This makes installing them a breeze. The Chevy knuckle hole is too small. So....</p><p></p><p>With the Chevy knuckle you must remove the knuckle and insert the inner shaft. Then you heat the RCV boot until it melts, then you mash the wide open end flat. <em> While holding the CV ball against the inside of the knuckle with the fingertips of one hand through the spindle hole, you use your other hand to install the knuckle. This means you must get both ball joint studs into the C with the boot in place on the inner shaft while holding the CV ball with your other hand through the spindle hole.</em> It took me 14 hours to get them installed and the second side took longer than the first. </p><p></p><p>No you cannot install the boot on the bell and slip it on with the knuckle. Also, with Reid knuckles you cannot swing the installed knuckle to one end of the steering spectrum and slide the ball between the knuckle and C. Reids have steering stops front and back preventing this.</p><p></p><p>Also worth noting. Both the inner shafts are fine. It was all the 300M 30 spline stuff that broke. I have been running domestic Yukon Hardcore (made by the same company that did the old Warn shafts apparently) 19 spline stuff for two years now. No breakage. The 300M RCV 30 spline stuff lasted three trails and broke on a sand hill at less than full throttle. It seems RCVs are significantly weaker in turns than aimed straight ahead. </p><p></p><p>If I convert to Ford knuckles I am willing to give the RCVs another try. Otherwise I am selling the whole package when the warranty parts get back to me. When I build my new front axle I WILL NOT be running RCV stuff. Too weak and poorly designed. 40 spline Superior with Longfield U joints all the way. Live and learn.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Horus, post: 1511312, member: 17219"] The spindle holes in the Ford knuckles are large enough that the CV bell and boot will pass through them. This makes installing them a breeze. The Chevy knuckle hole is too small. So.... With the Chevy knuckle you must remove the knuckle and insert the inner shaft. Then you heat the RCV boot until it melts, then you mash the wide open end flat. [I] While holding the CV ball against the inside of the knuckle with the fingertips of one hand through the spindle hole, you use your other hand to install the knuckle. This means you must get both ball joint studs into the C with the boot in place on the inner shaft while holding the CV ball with your other hand through the spindle hole.[/I] It took me 14 hours to get them installed and the second side took longer than the first. No you cannot install the boot on the bell and slip it on with the knuckle. Also, with Reid knuckles you cannot swing the installed knuckle to one end of the steering spectrum and slide the ball between the knuckle and C. Reids have steering stops front and back preventing this. Also worth noting. Both the inner shafts are fine. It was all the 300M 30 spline stuff that broke. I have been running domestic Yukon Hardcore (made by the same company that did the old Warn shafts apparently) 19 spline stuff for two years now. No breakage. The 300M RCV 30 spline stuff lasted three trails and broke on a sand hill at less than full throttle. It seems RCVs are significantly weaker in turns than aimed straight ahead. If I convert to Ford knuckles I am willing to give the RCVs another try. Otherwise I am selling the whole package when the warranty parts get back to me. When I build my new front axle I WILL NOT be running RCV stuff. Too weak and poorly designed. 40 spline Superior with Longfield U joints all the way. Live and learn. [/QUOTE]
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