Dana 60 wheel hub/ drive flange problem

Turtle Bite · Jul 7, 2009

I have Chevy front dana 60 wheel hubs that do not have the retaining ring groove machined after the internal splines, do I need to machine the groove to run my flanges? I have summit machine 35 spline flanges.

Also, is the internal spring (like the one included with longfield drive flanges) needed? I cant really find a diagram that shows how I should assemble it.

Spanaway Mudder · Jul 7, 2009

I was reading a friends petersons 4wheelin mag sat before we left for Lake Tapps...

Noticed a spall write up on how to make home brew drive flanges using some plate and a side carrier gear... drill the holes where the flange bolts go and cut a hole big enough for the spider gear to set in then weld like no other till its basically bomb proof... I wish I could find the write up on line..kinda nifty...

Turtle Bite · Jul 7, 2009

My hubs have the internal splines, not studs like the dodge ones. Plus I already have the aftermarket flanges. Otherwise I would consider making my own.

Spanaway Mudder · Jul 7, 2009

Right on...

Ever come across a neat subject in a tech section of some mag that you just want to share..well that was it..:awesomework: Iam done now..thanks

Maverick26 · Jul 7, 2009

My flang set did not come with a spring... I think the longfield ones are the only ones with a spring. I just got some after market hubs and flanges and I didnt have to do any machining. Post a pic or two and maybe I can help you.

dove'd85 · Jul 7, 2009

fairly certain there are a couple companies that offer the outer spring like my longfield drive flanges... if i could only post a pic...mine came with directions... if only they were here... i think the order is like this...

drive slug,spring,plate,outer cover...

i am sure bobby will chime in... maybe pm him for the order in which they go:redneck:

Binder · Jul 7, 2009

Take your wheel hubs to a machine shop and have them machine the snap ring groove. If you can, find one that has the groove for the machine shop to compare/ measure.
If you don't have the groove machined then the slug cover will fit loose and let in dirt and water.

bigiron · Jul 7, 2009

dove'd85 said:
fairly certain there are a couple companies that offer the outer spring like my longfield drive flanges... if i could only post a pic...mine came with directions... if only they were here... i think the order is like this...

drive slug,spring,plate,outer cover...

i am sure bobby will chime in... maybe pm him for the order in which they go:redneck:

I run bobby's flanges and the order is from bearing out....Spring,Flange,Plate,Cover.....you do need a grove in the hub for the snap ring that holds the plate that the cover bolts to. The spring goes in first to force the axle against the spindle to seal it.....

Cascade_Crawler · Jul 7, 2009

bigiron said:
I run bobby's flanges and the order is from bearing out....Spring,Flange,Plate,Cover.....you do need a grove in the hub for the snap ring that holds the plate that the cover bolts to. The spring goes in first to force the axle against the spindle to seal it.....

exactly, why would they include a spring to break the seal? :haha:

Turtle Bite · Jul 7, 2009

Here are some pictures. The hub with the groove is a ford so keep that in mind.

The Chevy hub I have:

Ford Hub:

The flanges I have:

I think the solution is going to be putting the snap ring in behind the slugs and making a spacer to go between the snap ring and the flange. I am still trying to figure out how dana spicer retained the factory slugs.

I found this thread on pirate by longfield, talking about the springs and what they do:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=649322&page=2

Turtle Bite · Jul 7, 2009

Cascade_Crawler said:
exactly, why would they include a spring to break the seal? :haha:

The spring goes behind the flange to pushing the flange out from the wheel hub. At least thats how I understand it.

nevada · Jul 7, 2009

um am i missing something here....why not just use a c-clip at the end of the axle?
thats what that groove is for.

Turtle Bite · Jul 8, 2009

nevada said:
um am i missing something here....why not just use a c-clip at the end of the axle?
thats what that groove is for.

I am going to use that one. There are two snaprings, one that goes on shaft, and one that goes in the wheel hub. I am afraid the flange is going to be walking around alot in the hub and kissing the end of the spindle though.

nevada · Jul 8, 2009

Turtle Bite said:
I am going to use that one. There are two snaprings, one that goes on shaft, and one that goes in the wheel hub. I am afraid the flange is going to be walking around alot in the hub and kissing the end of the spindle though.

only if its a loose fitting POS. it should fit the axle fairly tight.
you could always shim it up so there JUST room for the outer clip. then it wouldnt be moving at all.
have u tried fitting it in there yet? it might just fit as is.

chevy just uses the outer snap ring to hold the hub gear/drive flange in place.

bigiron · Jul 8, 2009

If you do not use a spring behind the flange or make a spacer to hold the stub shaft tight to the spindle.... You will destroy your bearings the first time you go into anything muddy and deep enough to get into the backside of the spindle......I know this firsthand..... I would recommend getting some springs from Bobby if he sells them...... You will want to machine a groove in the hubs to accept a the retainer ring for the cover mount ....Other option is to figure out how thick of spacer you need to go on the stub between the drive slug and the snap ring to keep the axle pulled tight to the back of the spindle.

bigiron · Jul 8, 2009

BTW that hub in the top picture I would consider replacing it as it looks like the old slug has ate halfway thru the splines....JMO

nevada · Jul 8, 2009

just happened across this,

Do I have to run the snap-ring in the end of the stub shaft? [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]On the Dana front the snap ring is very important on the stub axle. The stub must be retained from end play, it keeps the dust boot pulled up to keep the mud and water out and protect the thrust washer. The axle can not move back, if it dose the "U" joint will be out of alignment with the upper and lower joint of the steering knuckle, this alignment must be maintained when the steering knuckle is turned with the axle turning. Steve, Differential Eng. Inc. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I have found that NOT running a snap ring causes less than great seal/spindle relationship *the butterfly seal* and in some axles I think it allows the shaft to walk out and that seems to have an ill effect on some brand lockouts. I know I have also run the Dana 60 without clip with drive slugs and have had good success. But I still prefer using the snap rings. [/FONT]

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index2.html

Maverick26 · Jul 8, 2009

It also looks like someone for some reason machined that top hub out already. The grove for the snap ring should be where that flat spot is, and BigIron is right... those splines close to the inbored side of the hug look like

uke:. I can take some measurments of the grove and dia and distance inbored the grove is if you would like.

My flanges are from AA fab, but the bobby ones go from the inside out... spring, slug, plate then the cover. The spring pushes the slug outbored in order to create a seal on the O-ring and the cover.